Percy

Ron,

Fortunately, Deflex has a light tack to help positioning during application. Here's what I did. Test fit the piece (it'll stick to the metal temporarily) and if you're happy with it, use some Weldbond adhesive. Just peel off the section that you want to glue, apply adhesive and stick the Deflex back on. You don't have to take off the whole piece...just apply glue in sections and then stick back on.

Percy

amlin423

Ron, Retro,
Actually Twiggy was me...I was using my notebook and my girlfriend logged in the day before so I posted under her handle.

Retro,
I didn't know there is a new Raammat. What's the difference? I noticed the price on ebay has gone up. Is the deadening device better?

Ron,
I know what you mean. I helped dynamat my friends car a few years back and it certainly helps with a heat gun to help mold it to the contours of the surface you're applying to but the RAAMMAT is perfect for awkward surfaces because it is extremely flexible. Are you just going to go with deflex and no Dynamatting?

RON430

Sure hard to feel like I am doing this alone. Thanks for everyone's suggestions. The Deflex delivery is screwed up so I haven't actually seen the stuff. CAE gave me some names of people that might have it locally so if I turn it up the install will still be on this weekend. The dyns are here and, once again, THE BOOK is to be obeyed. With the actual part in your hands, Percy's instructions reduce the difficulty of preparing the tweeters of the dyns to the moron level so even I should be able to handle it. I want to put the Deflex in and I have gotten some CAE dampening material. I want to get in as much as I can but I am using the thinnest, lightest material I could get. Want to get the best environment I can but don't want to burden the car down with too much sound system related heft.

For me, I will see what the sound level is like after the speaker upgrade is in. I assume that if I have reasonable sound levels, I don't gain much from an amp. Sound quality can't improve using the stock head unit and amp and then feeding into an outboard amp, even a Mac (it can only be as good as the signal you feed it). If I have reasonable sound level from the door speakers it would still leave the sub as a candidate for a separate booster amp but I will wait and see.

I haven't seen a bunch of components like a lot of you guys have but I can appreciate construction. I have to say, the dyns don't disappoint. If you are going to pay for quality, it is nice to get it.

RON430

Deflex is some strange stuff. I found a local source for the rectangular Deflex panel so, with any luck, I am a go for the dyns this weekend. The Deflex I got has a plastic mask on one side and, like Percy said, a low tack adhesive. Percy obviously has it nailed with position it and then peel it back and put the adhesive on. By the way, we use McMaster Carr at work as a supplier and I see them mentioned in another thread and the adhesives and such I have referenced are available from them. I don't know if I have the ears to hear the difference but the Deflex goes in but it is really strange stuff. I am beginning the hardest part of all this is going to be figuring out where to stuff the dyn crossovers. I hope this size is necessary. Maybe someone will miniaturize this one of these days. Percy - I see in THE BOOK that you recommend installing the crossover using the 0 setting for the tweet. Does it really make that much difference playing around with the -2 or +2 connnection?

Percy

Ron,

It makes a bit of difference, but I figure that you can always change the tweet level using the head unit. If it's not enough then I'd go and use the +2 or -2, depending on your taste.

Percy

retrodrive

Depends on speakers...if they are good quality, solid, revealing set, then you will notice a lot of difference.

Percy, do you use 3 or 2 way Dyns?

RON430

Percy - I like a fairly bright sound which means more highs than lows but I figure I will leave the crossovers set at the 0 level. I am mid way through. Haven't buggered things up too bad but I did get some scratches in the window molding taking the door liner on and off a bunch of times ( may replace it or just use a little solvent to dissolve the scratches out) and one of the dippy door opener cables has come loose so I have to contend with ( I know THE BOOK said to leave them connected but I am using the passenger side for all of my fiddling) that tomorrow. A word for the next version of the book, the recent experience is correct - a one inch spacer will absolutely no way work with half inch baffle board on a GS 430. Three eighths inch is it. I even tried a half inch ring and it is a no go. The baffle board is at half inch and the spacer ring is three eighths inch and there is still clearance to the window and everything seems to fit. Looks like the only place for the crossover is at the bottom of the door on the outside of the glass - gawd thad dyn crossover is a bunch of box to put somewhere. Unless I can figure something else out, double side tape and hope the sucker stays put.