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What options do I have for a nice sounding sub, not really looking for more than one because im just looking for nice bass not looking to rattle person in next lane's windows. THe free air in the rear dash looks a little difficult because of the metal panel underneath, maybe something custom could be done. I could do the standard box in the trunk, but im looking to keep it as minimal as possible in space consuming. What are my options? Any opinions greatly appreciated!

Kyle Harty

iTrader: (17)

This may end up being more questions than answers, but it'll help determine what will work well for you.

I'm not familiar with the stock sub in the new ES's, maybe the GS guys with subs can help you out with ideas there. I believe the sub is an 8", so you're options are probably limited without doing some cutting. You may also be able to fit a 10" if you use a wood baffle, depending on the clearance under the grill, I doubt this would work too easily though. Also, if you do anything free air in the deck, you'll have to sound deaden the deck and make sure it's all sealed up to get best results.

Are you willing to give up your spare tire? If so, you could build a box with a fiberglass mold of the spare tire well, with an MDF top to mount the sub to, and then do a false floor if necessary or desired to complete the look of the trunk. If you're interested in this, check here for some pictures and instructions on how to do it. members.cardomain.com/kyle_harty

A small sealed box could also be minimally invasive, there are many subs that will work great in a small box, around 1 cubic foot or less that wouldn't take up much room in your trunk.

How much power will you be running to it and how much are you willing to spend? Do you already have an amp and if so what ohm load will you be running it at? From the sounds of it, you're more interested in a "SQ" sub, and not too worried about getting real loud. Just enough to add some accurate and balanced low end to the music, right? These will help determine some specific subs that would work for you.

Also, if you add a sub in a box in the trunk, I'd recommend removing the factory sub from the rear deck to help the bass transfer to the cabin more easily.

PERRYinLA

I enjoyed reading your web page, Kyle. I'm about to 'glass up a 1 cu. ft. box for my SC's trunk, and I'll be sure to use your "rope trick" the strengthen the sides.

Below is a pic of where I am at so far, and here is a tread the shows the box I am trying to build:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=44860

I don't look forward to the next step- gluing strips of fiberglass cloth to the foil, and laying down the first layer of resin on a vertical surface! But once that is done, I can remove it and work more comfortably at laying down a mat layer...WITH rope!

Kyle Harty

iTrader: (17)

Thanks Perry.

Looks like you're on the right track, one thing, I'd lay down 2 or 3 layers and let it cure fully before you remove it from the trunk, 1 layer probably won't hold the shape very well and you'd have to start over. After you've removed the first couple layers, then I'd glue down the rope and do a few more layers, I'd say about 5 or 6 layers total should be very strong with the bracing, especially if the surfaces are uneven.

From the looks of the box in that thread, you could probably use MDF for the horizontal piece on the top of the box as well as the face with the sub if you wanted to; that might be a little easier IMO.

Oh yeah, that mold of the spare tire well; I could put it upside down; stand on it and bounce up and down without it flexing; and I weigh about 220 pounds.

I gotta get that sub fixed and in my ES, it was all busted up when the car got totaled. I loved that thing, one sub that was loud enough to make a jaded basshead's stomach turn yet had beautiful SQ when asked to. The box was 7 cubic feet before port and driver displacements, that isn't gonna be stealth or inobtrusive in the trunk. They can go in smaller boxes, but the bigger the louder, I guess it's worth it to me though.

If you have any other questions, I'd be glad to help if I'm able.

PERRYinLA

Glad to know it survived and that you will resurrect it soon.

Thanks for your offer to help and I will indeed keep you posted on my progress. Today I bought the spray adhesive, so Friday is "lay up resin" day. I am also gonna order some RAAMmat to lay in between some layers of 'glass.

And you're right- even though marcman18 did not use any MDF besides the speaker panel, I should be able to use wood on the top, and possibly bottom areas.

More pics (and more questions for you, no doubt), to come later!

FYI- here is how it looked before I added any foil or cardboard masking:

Kyle Harty

iTrader: (17)

Well, the 9515 sorta survived. It's not totally dead, but it'll need a new basket, cone, spiders, and VC's. It was right in the back of thr trunk when it was hit by a van going 35 to 40 MPH, so the basket is broken in about 4 or 5 places. The motor structure should be OK, so I can get it fixed for about $100 through DD's upgrade-repair program.

From everything I know, the RAAMmat between layers of fiberglass would be a waste, It wouldn't add any strength and thick enough fiberglass walls will be totally dead, no resonance. The one thing you could do, which I often do with my boxes, is to spray the inside once your finished with rubberized undercoating. If you're not familiar with it, it's a tar-like spray that works about the same as spray deadeners, except it's only about $3 a can. Just be careful, it's kinda messy. I don't feel it's necessary, but it can't hurt and for only $3 it won't hurt your wallet either. Look for a tall red can at Walmart with the paint and fiberglass kind of stuff.

PERRYinLA

After seeing your cardomain.com page, I registered and uploaded the pics of my progress so far- so if you are curious....

http://members.sounddomain.com/perryinla

Fiberglass is impressive stuff- after only 2 layers, I doubt if I will be needing any rope, since most surfaces are curved (as you'll see, I used wood on the flat surfaces)!

At this stage, it sure looks like hell, but at least it is stiff enough to remove from my car!

Kyle Harty

iTrader: (17)

Fiberglass is good stuff, I'd rather be working with 'glass than MDF. I've even grown to love the smell. I'm working on new kickpanels in the ES, Digital Designs 5" midranges and Vifa XT-25 home audio tweeters in the kicks and DD 6.5's in the doors for midbass. I might run the midbasses IB until I get more time but am planning to 'glass ported door pods for them.

BTW, I don't know if you saw those pictures, but try taking a big spare-tire well mold that looked about like your box, then sand it and use body-filler to make it look presentable on the inside, I had to have spent at least 20 hours sanding and filling; then the car got totaled 2 weeks later.

PERRYinLA

...and I sure don't look forward to all that sanding and smoothing I'll need to do for my box, either. I guess the easiest solution will be to use Bondo body filler to smooth out the outside and then cover it with thin automotive carpet.

As for the inside, that tall red can at Walmart sounds perfect- does it still outgas once cured? And is it still tacky once dried?

And I would agree the smell is not so bad- kinda reminds me of the model airplane glue I used as a kid to build car models....
I guess that means nothing has changed except the size of the cars I work on!

Kyle Harty

iTrader: (17)

Isn't there some saying about the difference between a man and a boy is the price of his toys?

I'd try not to use too much bondo if possible, or at least too thick bondo. It cracks fairly easily, and thick sections would be more prone to cracking. This shouldn't be a problem, but in the event that the fiberglass were to flex, the bondo could crack, and that'd be real frustrating. It's a common misconception that bondo will add strength to the enclosure, it will add a little weight that could help cut down on resonance, but that shouldn't be a problem anyway. I'd try to build the visisble parts on the outside as even as possible to start with then sand the 'glass down as much as you can without making it real thin. This will minimize your filler use, which will also save you some time. Carpet would save you alot of time too if it matches your trunk and the theme of your install. Carpet will require alot less sanding than vinyl or paint since it will cover up small imperfections better; and probably be better in a stealth install anyway.

The rubberized undercoating is still a tiny bit sticky when dry, but it shouldn't be anywhere you'll be touching it anyway. It will smell for a few days, but in my experience it goes away after a day or two and isn't a problem. Some people use it for sounddeadening on panels inside the car, I wouldn't go that far with it since it is kinda messy stuff and there is a chance it could run or smell a little bit if it gets real hot. It is messy when you're spraying it, I'd probably wear old, long sleaved clothes and rubber gloves (like fiberglassing) since it's a pain to get off your hands, especially if it gets caught up in any hair.

PERRYinLA

You can see more details (including my "mat pocket") at: http://members.sounddomain.com/perryinla

I have about 5 layers on some parts, 3 layers on others, and some have 6 or 7. Some layers are fiberglass mat, some are fiberglass cloth. I am using the "patchwork" technique to the max! Looks like hell, but it is very solid, so I should be able to wind up the f'glassing part by next weekend.

I definintely have to coat the inside of the enclosure, to ensure it is airtight. You're right about bondo, so I'm looking to find a firm that does truck bed liner coatings- I'm sure you've seen that stuff on some sound domain web pages- one guy had his box "Rhino" coated.

Since it is such a small coating job, I would not expect them to haul out their gear to spray a box no bigger than a microwave oven, but maybe I could go over there when they are spraying an existing customer's truck bed. 10 seconds and I'd be done! It won't be cheap, though- similar stuff retails for $80 a gallon!

If not, then it's off to wally's to find that tall red can!

PERRYinLA

Hi again, Kyle....for full details on my MILKSHAKE, see
the SoundDomain.com Forum called "Fiberglass Help - ASAP.. Have Pics!!! " on installation issues.

http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubb/For...ML/015105.html

But here's a pic of the results so far using 1/3 Bondo and 2/3 resin: