mksaudio

I am a EX Master MECP installer(I quit for IT job). I agree that the Compustar could be a little more installer friendly and could have a few more aux outs. I added a couple of thinggs with timers and relays. I do love it though. I would highly recomend it.

SandRock

The wheel does not telescope when you use the remote start. You have to hit L1 when you get in the car. Anyone else have that problem?

mksaudio

Yes I did. You have one more acc wire to hit with the remote start. Its a small wire in the same harness as the starter, ign, etc. Then your wheel will come back out.

SandRock

could you explain that a little better so I can tell my install guy...thanks

mksaudio

Hello,

First get to the ignition harness, insert the key, then probe a few of the smaller wires. I didnt write the color down(My bad), but I do remember that the wire is smaller than the ign wire. The wire will show 12v + when the key is in. use the secondary ign wire fron the alarm. That should do it, enjoy.

SandRock

Where did you put the antenna. My guy put mine along the drivers side windshield. I would like to put it up in the blue strip but he says the blue strip has metal in it and it would reduce the range.

mksaudio

I ran the Ant all the way to the back window. I got low reception from the front. I had to extend the wire some also.

SandRock

Ok here we go...When I do a remote start my doors unlock for a few seconds then lock back. Also when I arm the alarm the brain thinks the door is open for a few seconds. What is the fix for these problems?

lisnup65

The unlock/relock is because it is programmed that way to turn off the factory alarm when the vehicle remore starts. A lot of vehicles factory alarms work with the d-locks. If the vehicle does not have a dedicated alarm shut down wire then this is mandatory. The concept is alarm armed, u-lock door=alarm now disarmed, start car=no factory alarm mode, relock doors= alarm back on if applicable.

The reason for the alarm thinking the doors are open is because of a poor install. The installer cut corners and went to the dome light wire on your car. You have a delayed domelight thus the alarm has no choice but to see the door as open until the domelight goes out. The proper way would have been to tap each door pin and diode isolate the circuit. You will get real world response then.

To beat the dome light delay, go to each door module located in each door. The wires are : red/white for drivers door, red/green for front right door, red/white for left rear door, and red/yellow for right rear door

FCTRY ALRM DISARM|disarms with unlock

To do it the right way=DISARM NO UNLOCK|lt.green/black |- |drivers kick in 18 pin plug

I included this information for your installer.

SandRock

Thanks, you guys are off the chain.

SandRock

Thanks a lot for your help. What do you think about where My antenna was mounted. Do you have a recommended location for it?

SandRock

Two more things..When I open the trunk it also unlocks the doors but the remote has the locked symbol showing. When I unlock the doors it first unlocks the driver door then the others is this normal? You guys have already been so much help.

mksaudio

Run it all the way to the back. It works beautifully from there. My range is real good. At least a football field. I've even been in the mall and communicated with the car.

SandRock

The range on the SS is a mile and 1/4, do you get close to that?

mksaudio

I've probably been about a 1/2 mile away and had contact. It really depends on the structures blocking your signal.