kponti

Ok this is not exactly a how to since that has been done a few times over. This is more of a clarification on wiring.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lex...b-working.html

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lex...300-400-a.html

These two links pretty much have the setup down except for a few variations:
1-The wire positions are not the same in the Nakamichi system, however the colors are exactly the same. Just use the colors (except the amp wire being used as an antenna wire in Raine's diy) and it will work.
2-The pink and blue wire is actually an amp switch wire. Wire it to your amp output from your aftermarket HU
3-There is one antenna wire that is wired into your aftermarket HU and one that plugs in (just like it does stock). You can easily figure out which of your stock antenna wires will plugin by size. With those two hooked up this way, I get better reception on this car than on my 2003 IS300.

On thing to note, the 1999 Nakamichi has 4ohm 4" speakers (except for the sub and the tweets). It also has a single 5 channnel amp that controls both the speakers and sub. So if your amp goes, you basically loose sound from all your speakers unlike the Pioneer system that has a separate amp for the subwoofer.

The best bet for the Nakamichi is to keep all else stock, get a very very mild 5channel amp with a built in cross over for one of the channels and basically replace the stock amp (if your amp is blown like mine is). Remember the stock speakers are 40W peak and 20W RMS, and they are paper and blow easily.

Aftermarket HU with working amp:
You will need to run wires to the rear of the car like Raine and 1997sc300 did (in the links above) so you do not have to run wires to each speaker (big PITA to the fronts especially). You can use the stock subwoofer amp-wire still since it can be found at the stock amp location with the same color (pink/blue wire). (Caveat).... Obviously if your stock amp is still working but you just want to bypass it for the speakers only, do the bypass mod and wire in the pink and blue wire to your HU to keep the stock subwoofer working.

Aftermarket HU with blown stock amp option 1:
You will need to run wires to the rear of the car like Raine and 1997sc300 did (in the links above) so you do not have to run wires to each speaker (big PITA to the fronts especially).
You will also need to get a simple amp to power your sub, so you should run an extra 2 pairs of wires to the trunk as well for the sub (most aftermarket HU have stereo sub outputs). Buying the RCA/speaker wire set from radioshack will make short of this, run them alongside your speaker wires going from the HU to the stock amp location. Bridge them at your new "sub-amp" and run some wires from your amp to the stock sub.


Aftermarket HU with blown stock amp option 2:
You will need to run wires to the rear of the car like Raine and 1997sc300 did (in the links above) so you do not have to run wires to each speaker (big PITA to the fronts especially).
Just buy two 6.5" speakers to replace your two rear speakers. Most of the time those two are on their last leg anyway. With speakers that can put out some base, you will be quite satisfied. You may need to remove the baffles completely to fit them (depending on what brand you go with). But most speakers have mounting kits that will allow you to make your own baffle and mount in the stock location.
This is the method I went with since one of my rear speakers was also dry rotted. I will take pics of how I put the 6.5" alpine Type-R SPR-17C Coaxial Speaker-2-way-100W(RMS)/200W together and post in this thread. The advantage with this setup is that if it isnt enough for me sometime down the road, I can always add a good amp to power these speakers and the stock sub (which is currently in good shape but not being used)

kponti

PS: The option 2 with blown amp did not work on the 1999/2000 SC400. Turns out you will need to grind out metal to fit in 6x9s so I dropped that option and returned the speakers.

I replaced my dry rotted rear speakers with 4" Infinitys that drop right into the stock housing, then did the option 1 with blown stock Amp. Sounds incredible.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lex...i-sub-amp.html

DallasSC

iTrader: (1)

My situation is that I've replaced my HU and amp. I ran my speaker wires like Raine's thread suggested and then also connected my +12V, my Switch 12V and my Ground wires as suggested by Raine as well. The HU does not power on. Could that be due to not reusing my factory amp and those wires are now no longer flowing voltage? I know my speakers are wired correctly but I haven't been able to test them since the HU is not on right now.

Any suggestions?

DallasSC

iTrader: (1)

Also, short of soldering wires - what's the best way of getting them to connect (and stay connected)? I used properly sized 'butt-end' connectors but still had issues with wires pulling out fairly easily. I even added electrical tape, but I guess it's still possible for them to have pulled out.

I will check them tomorrow or Thursday after work and see what's up.

ninja6o4

iTrader: (6)

I know this sounds stupid - some HU's won't visibly show having power. Did you press the power button?

Get a multimeter, or a test light at the very least, and test the wiring you did for the HU. Assuming your +12V constant and Ground are good, the HU will not power on unless the switched +12V is hot (key is in Acc/ON position.) A multimeter helps you quickly determine which of the three are not properly connected. With a multimeter, this is what I would do:
- Touch + to +12V Constant and - to known ground (chassis). should read 12V or more. If 0V, you aren't grounded or your +12V constant isn't hooked up correctly.
- If above is OK, move your - to the ground you are trying to use. Should continue to read 12V. If not, it's your ground you're trying to use.
- If both above are OK, move your + to your switched +12V. Should read 0V.
- Now turn your key to ACC. Your MM should now read 12V off the switched +12V.

If all 3 leads show proper voltage/grounding, then it's either the connection to the HU or the HU itself. The amp shouldn't come into play here because that is wired/powered separately.

Also - soldering isn't that difficult. It takes a bit of practice but it really is the best way to do it. If your butt connectors are sized correctly to your wire, then you aren't stripping enough off the wire or you aren't crimping hard enough. Good luck!