installing 6.5 components all around
#16
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I just got a 93 SC400 and am in process of changing the sounds as well. Where'd you get the adapters for the rear? I got some polk 4" to replace the rears for now but may up to 6.5". I don't see them on that Ebay site. Also, for the sub, are you using the existing amp? I just put a Kenwood X693 hu in and they had to bypass the amp because of engine noise, but I'm thinking I could use the existing amp to power the new sub I get?
#17
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Although I would say that a well-staged car can live with a rear-fill setup, it must be attenuated heavily (fader, anyone?!), and the high frequencies should be muted out (remove tweeter, or use crossover to attenuate further.)
This is also why we don't need quality speakers in the rear if at all. They do not contribute to the stage, therefore they are not to be focused on.
All this is simply because the effect of a sound stage image is lost when high frequencies play from the rear, which grabs the mind's attention and kills the 3D effect up front. This is why we deaden and damp cars with MLV, CLD, and CCF materials, so they won't squeak or resonate at frequencies that would distract from the experience.
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actually the adapter that i posted that i got from ebay, was used for the front and rear, the top part of the adapter was to big and wouldn't clear in the front so when we took them apart we were able to use them to mount the 6.5 in the rear, i didn't use the existing amp, i got a polk momo 500.1 to power the sub, my stock sub was blown so i just took the sub in the middle out completely, now theres more bass to travel throughout the car
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[QUOTE=aznaznazn;5069271]so the ebay adapters do not fit for the front speakers? i am planning on upgrading 6.5 speakers too but i dont want to cut the wood so how did you get the fronts to fit?[/QUOTe
it doesn't fit normally, because the adapter sticks out to much and it doesn't clear with the door closing, but the adapters are 2 pieces, all you have to do is use a philips and take it apart, and ur able to use the two pieces for the front and the rear
it doesn't fit normally, because the adapter sticks out to much and it doesn't clear with the door closing, but the adapters are 2 pieces, all you have to do is use a philips and take it apart, and ur able to use the two pieces for the front and the rear
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Thanks for responding.
So your saying i have to take apart the adapter and use half of it to fit the front speakers? and if i decide to change rear speakers then i use the other half adapter plate for the rear?
So your saying i have to take apart the adapter and use half of it to fit the front speakers? and if i decide to change rear speakers then i use the other half adapter plate for the rear?
#21
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Making adapters takes like 10 minutes with a jig saw.
Use HDPE (cutting board) plastic, say 1/3" or 1/2 maybe tops. Wood dies over time, unless you are where it doesn't rain or snow or do anything... like Vegas.
Use HDPE (cutting board) plastic, say 1/3" or 1/2 maybe tops. Wood dies over time, unless you are where it doesn't rain or snow or do anything... like Vegas.
#25
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I'm a bit confused.. I have the same speakers.. Infinity 6.5's and the same Ebay adapters.. I ran into the same space problem and also quickly figured that I had to disassemble the adapter and ditch the spacing ring.. I installed my speaker as you have pictured and the door panel WILL go on over the speaker, but the door panel is actually sitting right on the rubber surround of the speaker at the bottom. The hole needs to be about 1/4 - 1/2" higher to clear the door panel. I went and bought some 1/2" MDF. I plan to use the adapters to trace the outline on the MDF but I plan to cut the hole about 1/4" or so higher to give me the clearance I'll need. I am surprised the OP did not have this issue.
#26
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As a data point, i ran into the same problem as above ^^
My Phoenix Gold 6.5 CS RSD's wil mount to the ring-less adapter, but the door panel hits the rubber on the bottom. I'm just going to dremel the upper half of the hole, slide teh speaker up 1/4", then trim the door panel a hair.
It's been kind of a pita... they should work as advertised.
My Phoenix Gold 6.5 CS RSD's wil mount to the ring-less adapter, but the door panel hits the rubber on the bottom. I'm just going to dremel the upper half of the hole, slide teh speaker up 1/4", then trim the door panel a hair.
It's been kind of a pita... they should work as advertised.
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