What's the de facto IB / Free Air Sub these days?
#1
What's the de facto IB / Free Air Sub these days?
Searched through this forum, but the information seems to be mostly out of date now, referring brands and models no longer manufactured or sold.
What's the recommended sub replacement for our cars? Specifically a 2GS, 10" oem sub.. Looking to keep it in stock location obviously!
What's the recommended sub replacement for our cars? Specifically a 2GS, 10" oem sub.. Looking to keep it in stock location obviously!
#4
Is the elemental designs an OEM replacement, or does it also beef up the bass a touch? I wouldn't mind a bit more kick on the low end I can wire an additional amp for it if necessary. Just really looking for "what are today's free air sub options" for our cars..
#6
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Most replacement subwoofers will offer less output compared to OEM subwoofers when powered by the same amp. Those that do offer more or less the same sensitivity will generally lack low end also. The relationship between low end output and sensitivity is inverse of each other. One goes up, the other goes down. So pick a subwoofer with good low end output. Power is cheap nowadays so it's easier just to amp the sub.
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Today I had the Alpine SWR-M100 powered by a Rockford Fosgate R250-1 installed. In one word WOW. The SWR-M100 is a 10" high performance marine sub with superior free air performance. I am very happy with results. I plan to reinforce or replace the rear deck next.
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Here is a pic of the sub mounted were the OME sub was. The amp is mounted right behind it to the back seat. The sub has a grill that must be removed to allow the interior speaker cover to fit over it.
#13
That sounds like a good sub replacement! Definitely worth looking into.
I know that pretty much any aftermarket sub is going to need more power, so a discrete amp is pretty well a foregone conclusion.
Anyone else have some input as to other options for OEM IB sub replacement? I'm sure we could all use info on this a bit more up to date, anyway
I know that pretty much any aftermarket sub is going to need more power, so a discrete amp is pretty well a foregone conclusion.
Anyone else have some input as to other options for OEM IB sub replacement? I'm sure we could all use info on this a bit more up to date, anyway
#14
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I will first say that I have been a car audio fanatic for 15+ years and have personally installed more than 50 complete amp/speaker systems in my days. I believe most subs on the market will sound pretty good back there. My previous car, a 2000 GS3, had a 10" MTX-8000 installed by the previous owner and was wired to a ~150wrms MTX amp and it sounded Awesome!
It really helps to add a seperate sub amp so you can get a decent amount of power, ~100 wrms. I know the factory Nakamichi amp sends a puny 30wrms to the sub and barely gets the sub moving. I actually tried an aftermarket 5 ch amp with built in eq and x-over to drive the door speakers and sub. The doors speakers ended up sounding hollow and hissy compared to the factory Nak amps setup.
I ended up leaving the Nakamichi system completely stock and just added a 120wrms MTX old school amp that cost me $40 shipped. It has a 90hz crossover and a 45hz bass boost circuit of about 10db to drive the factory Nak Sub. This bass boost allows me to keep the factory bass **** on the headunit at 12'oclock and keeps the majority of the bass from going to the factory 4" Nak door speakers. The additional ~90wrms really helped the stock 10" Nak sub kick and I am very pleased with the overall sound quality for now.
On a side note: I did actually remove the stock sub with thoughts of replacing it but ended up just adding ~4sqft of dynamat extreme to the parcel shelf to help dampen any resonance. The dynamat alone can help a sub sound better and along with the added power is helping to keep any rattles at bay.
It really helps to add a seperate sub amp so you can get a decent amount of power, ~100 wrms. I know the factory Nakamichi amp sends a puny 30wrms to the sub and barely gets the sub moving. I actually tried an aftermarket 5 ch amp with built in eq and x-over to drive the door speakers and sub. The doors speakers ended up sounding hollow and hissy compared to the factory Nak amps setup.
I ended up leaving the Nakamichi system completely stock and just added a 120wrms MTX old school amp that cost me $40 shipped. It has a 90hz crossover and a 45hz bass boost circuit of about 10db to drive the factory Nak Sub. This bass boost allows me to keep the factory bass **** on the headunit at 12'oclock and keeps the majority of the bass from going to the factory 4" Nak door speakers. The additional ~90wrms really helped the stock 10" Nak sub kick and I am very pleased with the overall sound quality for now.
On a side note: I did actually remove the stock sub with thoughts of replacing it but ended up just adding ~4sqft of dynamat extreme to the parcel shelf to help dampen any resonance. The dynamat alone can help a sub sound better and along with the added power is helping to keep any rattles at bay.
Last edited by ChampGS3; 01-27-10 at 08:50 AM.
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