rojo412

This isn't about the "how-to" at all, so don't flame me for lack of searching!

I am planning to replace the factory sub in my 1990. I have a power amp available, attached to a 2x10 box. I was planning on installing the whole shabang when my friend posed this question:

"Why don't you just get a nice 8" sub speaker and install that? You would have a LOT more trunk space when you're done!"

Don't know why it didn't dawn on me, but I thought it had merit. In fact, if I go through the process, I plan on making a DIY with pics for anything that wasn't sufficiently covered in the past (though most was fine, you guys rock!).

The question is:
Who has replaced their stock sub with an upgrade and had it powered by a non-factory amp? How did you like it? Was it rattly or solid or what?

And to those who got rid of the factory one, how did you like the trunk box by comparison?

The way I see it, the factory replacement would be as easy to do, not expensive (even though I have the parts for the other way!) and would leave me with a full trunk. It also wouldn't make my trunk sound like a boom box. And when I fired subs at the back window of my previous car (camry wagon), it sounded awesome!

But I need some real world opinions.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

you REALLY REALLY need to search

rojo412

I have searched... over and over again. People are mainly explaining that their sub went out and they have no idea what ohm ratings are, some people wire them to the left or right channel, which screws things up, most people don't really have a clue how it works... but I know exactly how things work...

I'm looking for opinions.
If I replace my headunit with an aftermarket, then I will be running the aftermarket sub off of an aftermarket power amp. I KNOW this will work. I have no issue with that.

But if running 600w into a single speaker in the rear window will cause the rear deck its mounted on to shake like a banshee, I won't do it. No one has described sufficiently how well it sounds, as far as I can tell.

sam12345

iTrader: (1)

http://www.bestcovery.com/search/apa...arch/subwoofer

avalon42

iTrader: (1)

I don't understand your two posts. Are you talking about staying with a factory headunit?

I run an aftermarket headunit, did some fancy re-wiring using the trunk CD changer harness (which connects to the front headunit) which plugged into a mini-amplifier, which goes to a factory Pioneer sub.

How does it sound? It'll do, that's all I need as I am not looking for melt my brains or get tickets for the noise.

edtbjon

I replaced my OEM subwoofer speaker with this:
Rockford-Fosgate-P3L-S12. (Linked from crutchfield.com) Not a monster subwoofer in any way, but with a good amplifier it does sound nice with a good kick to it. What I like is the much improved sound while still being very compact (about 4 US gallons), so that I still have my trunk space as I travel now and then with the car filled with passengers.

Now, this was a compromise, as my original plans was to cram in a DLS or Kicker 10" open-air sub in the original hole. That would have sounded better than the old OEM sub, but almost any sealed or ported speaker box sounds better than an open air sub. I also had plans to build a custom speaker box which would be mounted to the top of the booth using the existing speaker hole as a "template" for where to place the speaker sound exit. Again, just buying the above linked Rockford F. sealed box was a workable compromise which saved a lot of time and effort. (I had already put in a lot of effort in replacing the OEM door speakers with DLS 6.5" speakers in custom made baffles. I also replaced the head unit and the amplifier so that everything in the sound system is now brand new and sounds much better than OEM.)

//Björn

rojo412

Thanks, that was what I was asking. I appreciate it.

sam430

iTrader: (10)

2nd Gen GS

For sure it'll ratttle... if you look along the panel, from the trunk, of the sub, you'll see a few things that'll shake with only small amount of power to the sub. What I did was putsomething around the edges of that thing and it stopped rattling. It's square shaped.
I also improved the structure so to get a solid bass vibration transferred to the car.

Another thing that'll rattle is the clip that goes behind the door lever. I just put a foam behind it and press the clip back in.

Also, the wires and plastic covers behind the door may generate noise when air is being moved.

rojo412

Well, it's funny you mention it...

I just finished up the install of the box in the trunk about an hour ago. I took lots of pics and will be posting a detailed DIY soon.
The way I did it required no drilling of any holes anywhere and it was not "easy" but was no harder than just about any other car for the most part.