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Plan for mild upgrade to stock Nakamichi system

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Old 05-24-10, 12:06 PM
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Jazz62
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Default Plan for mild upgrade to stock Nakamichi system

First post here, so I'm bracing for whatever nutty hazing ritual you have prepared.

I have an SC400 from '97 with the "premium" Nakamichi system. I'm mulling over trying to upgrade it just a little, but really don't want to yank the whole thing and start over. I don't need a huge improvement, just more clarity, less distortion, and overall higher quality sound at moderate volumes. My current plan is to replace the tweeters with these:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=264-1002
and replace the front door 4" speakers with these:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=264-828
and probably add some crossover components to all the mid speakers to pass the mids only.

I'm hoping to use the stock speaker mounts/baffles - will these fit? Is there a good quality tweeter out there that is a better choice? Does anyone have any specs for the stock speakers? Any other suggestions appreciated.

Thanks!
Old 05-24-10, 12:50 PM
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Percy
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With a 2.25 inch mounting depth they will not fit into the stock location housing. You might want to make some baffles for the door speakers and go from there. That way you have more options of mounting depth rather than the shallow stock enclosures.

I'd recommend a 6.5 inch speaker, and one specifically designed for automotive usage. The dispersion characteristics are far different for an automobile versus the home (near field for the car vs far field for the home). Also the temperature differences in the car will make most home speaker adhesives give out over time.

The Vifa tweeters should be interesting though. They make some good stuff. A bit "laid back" in sound, but they're still good. You might want to look at some of the larger 1 inch tweeter drivers as it's easier to transition from a larger tweeter to a midwoofer for frequency response.
Old 05-24-10, 03:26 PM
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Jazz62
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Thanks for the response Percy.
I'll look over the threads that discuss baffles a bit more. How deep are the stock baffles, and could I possibly just cut out a piece from the back the right size to allow the back of the speaker to protrude and use the drivers I mentioned? I think the dispersion issue applies more to the high treble than the mids. I have been told by others that the construction of car audio speakers is not that different as far as use in "adverse environments" - that that applies more to speakers for marine use, but if you have info to the contrary please feel free to share.
Are there some 4" speakers that others here have used with success?
I was looking further and considering also doing the rear speakers and came up with this possibly for the sub, but it may also be too deep:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=299-238
Old 05-24-10, 04:13 PM
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Percy
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The stock baffles aren't very deep at all. Maybe about 1 3/4 inch if I remember correctly. Also the stock baffles have a sort of "tuned port" to resonate at about 100 hz if I remember correctly. Haven't looked at the speaker baffles in a long time.

You could cut a hole through them, but it's still firing in the small chamber. You're much better off using the added area (use some Deflex panels behind the speaker - adhere to the door) for better midbass response for a custom baffle.

Adverse environments means a temperature swing of more than 10 degrees. For the chicagoland residents, that's over a 100 degree differential. Home speakers are made with 68 to 75 degree temps in mind, or room temp. Once when the home speakers get too hot, strange things happen to the adhesives for the cone surrounds and spider.

Highly adverse environments include salt spray.

The sub may or may not work. Not sure if you can "drop in" and top mount the sub. I know that in the GS, you have to bottom mount the sub with a spacer ring. This is so that the surround doesn't hit the metal lip of the deck.

I'd still recommend getting away from the 4 inch speaker sizes. Go with a custom baffle and a good 6.5 inch driver/speaker. Your ears will definitely thank you.
Old 05-26-10, 08:52 AM
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Jazz62
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I have too many projects on deck to do this immediately, but I think I've got a plan. I'm going to go with this for the front doors:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=290-399
along with the 4" Tang Bands I mentioned earlier in the back deck. If I can mount the Peerless from the top with a spacer I'll go with that too, unless someone has some info on the stock sub that indicates its actually a pretty good speaker. I'll use either the tweeter I mentioned earlier or a 1" if I can find one small enough. I've been listening to the current system and trying to isolate each speaker with the amp controls and am impressed by how bad each current speaker sounds individually, plus apparently my back left speaker is either dead or disconnected. I think this is going to be a significant upgrade for a modest price.
Old 05-26-10, 11:45 AM
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Percy
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The mounting depth on the 6 inch driver may be a problem. 2.8 inches may not work, even with a spacer ring.
Old 05-26-10, 01:58 PM
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Jazz62
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Well, boo.

How deep is the door with the stock baffle removed? Oh, and I found a Dayton 1 1/2" dome tweeter that I might go for - the ND285-6. Any info on the stock sub or advice on a good replacement? The Peerless I've been eyeing is 6" deep. The stock sub doesn't look to be as cheap a driver as the rest of the speakers, so I'm not as hot to replace that unless its going to be a noticable upgrade.
Old 05-26-10, 03:16 PM
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Percy
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Generally you can get away with 2.7 inches, WITH a 1/2 inch spacer ring, on 1/2 inch MDF board. The main problem is the window. You don't want the window to hit the speaker as it's coming down!
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