passnu2

iTrader: (33)

I'm installing an amp and sub. I have ML and will be tapping into the +/- from the ML sub.

I have never used OEM wire to run an amp. In previous cars, years ago, I just did a full blown system.

So my question is I have a Cache cloc+d Car Line Output Converter + Driver clocd. Since I'm going to run the amp in Mono for one sub would I be correct that I only need one line from the ML factory amp? Or do I need to feed both +/- to the line converter then just use one of the RCA outs?

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

You answered your own question above.

My question to you is are you certain that unit can take the input from the ML amp? I know it's only about 80 watts, but that unit looks like it's designed for integration with a deck, not an amp. Since they specify the max voltage input instead of the max wattage (an annoying way of listing things, IMO, since it's harder to locate the rail voltage information), I am not at all sure it can handle the output. Heard plenty of horror stories on here about units that melted when used for this, so I'm always cautious - wire fires are no joke.

I would get with Cache audio (located very close to me, surprisingly enough) and ask them what wattage it can handle.

Big Mack

passnu2

iTrader: (33)

Thanks.

I actually have the same unit as this member with ML. Only difference is he has 3 subs off one amp and I will have 1 sub off 1 amp. I actually asked him and this was a professional install at a stereo shop. He has no issues?

LINK To Thread Scroll down to I think his 3rd post, next to the pic of his amp here the member talks about the same unit I plan to use.

Let me know if you think this is still of concern. Was going to finish this today and now you have my worried. I can finish the install of the amp and wait on this part to be safe.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

You're welcome.

Bing actually works out of his garage, but his work is top notch.

I actually had to go to the DIY site to read up on the rest of the writeup since he didn't give any indication it was an ML upgrade. He did there, so I would think it should be fine. I definitely don't like the idea that it's listed in voltage in, but I suppose Garry's engineering prowess should be taken into consideration.

Don't forget to take the pitchers, mang!

Big Mack

passnu2

iTrader: (33)

here are pics as of now: to 4080 enclosures for this custom side mount box. It fits like a glove!!





next question for you

I'm torn as to were I want to mount the amp. was considering just above the ML amp to build something so its like a shelve. Not putting more head on the ML amp and also allowing access if need be. Pros I can see here is I can put the Cache down by the ML amp. I dont use my trunk so not really worried about space. Rather it be safe and clean looking.

So now here is my question. Grounding. I see 2 possible spots at the ML amp. One the bracket that attaches to the car and another that is also attached but is raised up. In my pic you can see both. Question is will I get good enough ground from this and anything to worry about?



Thanks again!

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Need another shot of the brackets. Focus on those, not the wire above them (that's the only thing that isn't fuzzy) .

As for where to mount it, it's rather open to you. If you want to utilize the factory bracket and simply make an extension above it with some metal L brackets, that would probably make the best use of the space. Just make sure you DO NOT screw the brackets to the amp. Screw the brackets to a beauty board with some carpet on it, then the amp to the board. I once had a customer who complained about noise all the time, but wouldn't bring it in. When he finally did, we found that his DIY was DVB (done very bad) and he used a bracket that was screwed directly to metal. Ground loop anyone?

Big Mack

passnu2

iTrader: (33)

sorry its very humid out so the camera lens keeps fogging up.

Lets try these. They are both the same bracket (all one piece) just different places I can mount them.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

First pic shows the bolts are covered with rust inhibitor and paint, but if you loosen them, sand underneath, and use it for a grounding lug, you should be okay. Or you can simply tap your own and use a lug. Either way, be sure to scrape the paint and have the lug attach to bare metal.

Big Mack

passnu2

iTrader: (33)

Back for some more questions

If I recall correctly when using the amp in Mono mode its the 2 outer speaker outputs? am I correct? I just pulled JL Audio's manual on line and it just says there are two sets of +/- and you can run it in mono? no direction on what to use or maybe this has changed since I last messed with car audio? I noticed that the 2 inner outputs the screws are loose and the outer 2 are tightened. The amp is new so this is from factory. I was thinking there was a reason but didn't want to assume.

looking at the amp from L to R here is the orientation. ++ -- (2 red ones are lose)

Thanks!
Mike

Blueshark

passnu2, pm me since i'm also on the process of updating my ML audio. Did the sub/amp already, not as need as you.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Mike,

It's usually the two outers, but I have found that it's never better to assume. What amp do you have? Just because two screws were loose from the factory doesn't make them the mono outputs.

Big Mack

passnu2

iTrader: (33)

^JL 500/1 v2. I agree that's why I posted to make sure. Thought maybe something had changed.

I havent been able to test it yet. Having no luck finding the wires at the ML amp for the rear OEM ML sub. I was able to find the wires at the sub (green w/ purple & Black w/purple) but they are no were to be found at the amp. Went over every wire...

The wire runs up and into the car so I have no way to trace were it goes since there is one master wire harness going into the trunk.

I have the PDF off the tech site and it only shows if you have the non ML and the colors. Interesting that the non ML is a dual voice coil sub were the ML is not?

Anyone know were I can find this at?

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Umm...that's a mono amp. It only has one output. It only has 2 sets of terminals to make hooking up more than 1 sub easier. Use the center two (since they are + and - and right next to each other), and you're hot.

No idea which wires are at the amp, but if you're not removing the amp, just attach at the sub's location, run a short loop down to the LOC, and you're golden. Be sure to observe polarity. If you are not sure, touch the inputs on the ML sub with a regular battery (a drill battery works great). Once you know which is which, mark the wires accordingly and hook up the LOC in polarity. Done with that? You should be golden at that point.

Big Mack

passnu2

iTrader: (33)

sorry...haha I just realized I said mono. On a multi channel amp I have used the outer two leads.

Since this is mono with 2 speaker outputs I would assume how I wire the amp will change wont it?

I'm going to find out what the wires are at the amp. I have XM and there is a PNP wire for the ML amp so I can tap this harness with out taping into the OEM wires. I can take the PNP wire harness out at anytime and go back to stock.

Problem is the plug for the ML sub is above the rear deck so I can see what wire color they changed to. Why they couldnt just go with the same wire color?? I know I will figure it out. I just have no time during the week so it will probably wait until the weekend. I also sent an email to Lexus Parts to see if they have the exact pin out location and wire color.

Other then this I am golden to test it out.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

No. You should run one wire to the + and one to the -, same as with any other amp. The two outputs are basically just a Y on the output connection of the amp.

They couldn't cuz they didn't wanna. I wish there was a better reason. I would just tap into the wires you have exposure to. If it's wired up backward, you can simply flip the output on the amp or flip the connection on the LOC. Amp would probably be easiest at that point, but it's your call.

Big Mack