fenderzig

iTrader: (2)

Updated box pics!!

I'm gearing up to do a complete audio build in my GS400. I've never done a full build before so I'm more looking forward to the learning experience than I am to the finished product, however, I'm pretty excited about that too!

My first step was to build two boxes for my 10" JL Audio W6s. Originally I was going to build one box for both of them but then thought it might be better to keep them separate in the event that 2 subs is too much bass...if there is such a thing, right

I'm putting a JL 500/1 on each sub so by keeping them separate, I could sell a whole sub/box/amp combo down the road if I needed to.

I built these boxes according the the JL specs. They are sealed, 3/4 MDF, 100% glued and nailed all the way around. The carpet arrives next week. Anything else I should do to make them better?

Thanks for your help!







Ran some 8 gauge wire from the terminal cup to the sub inside the box. These are the ring terminals on the ends of the wire.



Connected to the terminal cup



Boxes are finished and awaiting install in the car

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

For your first time out of the gate, the construction looks pretty solid.The only thing I would caution on is using screws instead of nails in the construction. Use a pilot hole and countersink them so they are flush, but I would definitely shoot some coarse screws into them. Won't hurt to sand them and prep them for carpet, since it will show any waves/imperfections. If the carpet is going to take some time to arrive, I would also go a step further and hit them with a coat of fiberglass resin inside. This will bond to the MDF and ensure an airtight seal.

One last thing - where are the terminal cups? You don't want to just slide a piece of wire in a hole. Buy a couple of them with recessed binding posts so you can detach them, if necessary, with no tools once they are detached from their mounts in the car. That's the next question - how are you mounting them in the car? You don't want them flailing around in the trunk in the event of an accident.

Big Mack

fenderzig

iTrader: (2)

Good thoughts, Mack...

The screws are a good idea. I've been a little hesitant mainly because I don't want to split the MDF but I think I agree. I'll add some screws and just be careful about doing it.

They are actually sanded already. I used a belt sander on them and then followed that up with a palm sander with 120 grit paper. They are pretty smooth. I was thinking the same think about the carpet showing imperfections.

As far as the terminal cups are concerned...if my boxes are sealed is it possible that the terminal cups would be a possible weak spot for that seal to be compromised? Again, I can easily be swayed because I recognize the convenience of the terminal cup detachment.

I don't know how I'm mounting them yet. I do plan on mounting them but right now my trunk is all apart because I'm hoping to run power wire soon and finish sound deadening. I figured that would be something I did when the trunk design was finished.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, mang.

S'why I said use a pilot and countersink. Lessens the chance of splitting it dramatically.

The fronts look sanded, but it must be the sealant on the side making it look like it was a bit wavy. No worries.

You screw them in, then run a bead of silicone around the edge from the inside. Keeps them from leaking, keeps them in place, and you get the benefits.

Cool. Just something to think about as you're doing the design. L brackets work great for this task - but be VERY careful shooting screws into the trunk floor. Gas tank, exhaust, etc., are all under there.

Big Mack

fenderzig

iTrader: (2)

Boxes are now screwed, nailed, and glued

Frankdorn

iTrader: (7)

How does a guy remove the box so conveniently with the terminal cups but it's still screwed down with L-brackets? (I'm pondering how to secure my box down, too...)

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

I didn't say it was totally convenient, just more convenient than having to get access to the amp and unscrew the terminals to release the wires since unplugging them from the sub is pointless if they're siliconed in.

Since it's not really designed to prevent theft, you could get carriage bolts, slide them through, silicone them in place, and secure with a wing nut to an L bracket. Depending on how you have your box, a small piece of wood that it sits on could house the L bracket (just be sure to carpet it). Without knowing the placement of your box(es), it's tough to call, but I do recommend it. I have built boxes that were so tight to the trim pieces that were fabbed up you had to yank on them to get them to move, and since the GS's seats don't fold, this might be an option for you, Frank.

Big Mack

fenderzig

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys,

Picked up the rest of my components this weekend...

* For the doors I'm going with Hertz HSK 165s in all four doors
* I really wanted a "do-it-all" HU (BT, Navi, DVD, 7 inch screen) and I just couldn't bring myself to drop the coin on a new one so I bought a used one from a guy on another forum. It is the JVC KW-NX7000. He used it for only 10 months in a show car and I was pretty clear about how good I wanted the condition to be. He says it is a 9.8-9.9 out of 10.
* I already have my amps, subs, and the sound deadening is done. I just need to get all my wire, fuses, holders, distribution block, trunk design template and I'm good to go!

Anybody else working on a 2gs trunk design?? Care to share..

excluesive

iTrader: (10)

i got this for ya, but it may be a little on the extreme side..

fenderzig

iTrader: (2)

^^^WOW! That is nice Thanks for the motivation!

excluesive

iTrader: (10)

if my trunk can provide motivation, then it's doing it's job, just show me the final product!

ErseOne

Tough setup!

fenderzig

iTrader: (2)

Bump for new pics in first post

egggy

damn, dude

should've went ported.

fenderzig

iTrader: (2)

I didn't want to go ported...I like the punch of a sealed box better than a ported one. That's just my preference