Frankdorn

iTrader: (7)

I'm installing a set of MBQuart components, which have large tweeters (40mm) and big-a$$ crossovers -- any suggestions on where I can easily hide these damn things?

rgarjr

iTrader: (1)

how big are the x-overs? U can probably put them inside the doors with double sided tape or zip ties.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

I ran into the same problem with the tweeters I have. The stock location is no good so I had to mount them on my a-pillars.

Frankdorn

iTrader: (7)

Can I put a X-over inside the door? What about moisture -- is that a concern? Any ways around that?

I was thinking of surface-mounting on the door panel, but A-pillars sound cool, too. How'd you do it? Any pictures?

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Surface mounting is fine too if you're willing to drill into the door panel. I prefer the a-pillar because it brings the sound stage up a bit higher. Plus a-pillars are cheaper to replace if I mess them up

I wish I could use the stock location for simplicity.

Frankdorn

iTrader: (7)

Finished the fronts today.

Tweeters: drilled a 2-1/8" diameter hole in the door! A little gutsy I guess, but it turned out well.

Crossovers: they're the size of friggin' school house bricks, I swear. So, my only option was contrary to my normal double-sided tape AND cable ties AND duct tape -- I threw 'em in the bottom of the door. Yup, they just lay there. I wrapped 'em twice with polyfill sheeting and taped a big "X" over it, threw two pieces of duct tape over the upper outer corner to keep it pinned in the corner...they don't move, rattle, and are somewhat protected from moisture (if any were to get in).

lowKut

iTrader: (3)

Cut it and mount it on the door. I am hesitant in going that route myself but having witness it in person, once the installer do a clean job it will look like oem.

Best,

Mark

fenderzig

iTrader: (2)

Post up pics of where you ended up putting your tweeters. I'd love to see them.

My tweets are 25mm so I'm hoping to fit them in the stock location but if that doesn't work, I'm open to other ideas

Frankdorn

iTrader: (7)

Can do fenderzig -- when its light out I'll snap a couple. Basically in the front of the doors on the flat vertical parts.

** Addendum: drop the x-overs in a ziplok bag before putting them in the door! Rained out last night, the Polyfil was wet! Pulled everything back out of the car, went to town with a blowdryer, and reassembled...in a freezerbag with the top open for heat escape. Water somehow ends up in the bottom of the doors.

Frankdorn

iTrader: (7)

Pics as promised... Haven't had time to really clean the car up since the install, though.

TIP: when using a hole saw on your door panel, if you keep the drill perfectly straight up-and-down, all of the teeth will grab at once and send your drill into good-part-of-the-door territory. I recommend tilting the drill back and forth once the center hole is started to groove the hole before diving in, if that makes sense.

Percy

The tweeter height will determine the height level of the soundstage. The midrange will often determine the width of the stage. Stock location is actually pretty good as far as soundstage height is concerned.

Xovers can be taken out of their casing if you're looking to save space. Or if you know how to build your own, it'll possibly cut the constraints down to 1/2, depending on what components you use.

Frankdorn

iTrader: (7)

Percy -- you were right, man. The MBs are nice, but damn are they harsh. I used to turn the treble up a fair amount because I like the clarity -- no more, unless I want a torn eardrum. Haven't hooked the 4 channel amp in yet, dunno if that'll make any difference. The front tweeters are at -1, going to change to -3 to see if that helps.

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

The best soundstage and quality I was ever able to achieve in my car was with horns... Not to mention, they were so efficient, I only needed a 25w x2 RMS amp to drive them, while the 6.5's in the doors had 100w x2 RMS amp to drive them, and it was well balanced that way.. Nice thing was - they were almost completely hidden - the mini design hung down from the dash about 2" but unless you were looking, you didn't really even notice it...

just a thought for those looking to change things up a bit...

http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/prod...hp?Family_Id=5

Percy

I had my old set of MBQ HX25 tweets padded down to -6 and then -12 using my McIntosh EQ. Just could not stand them due to the harsh ringing effects. Remember that all hard dome tweets (titanium/aluminum/beryllium) will have the ringing effect, guaranteed. Doesn't matter how well damped they are behind the chamber, it's the solid metal that's causing the effect. Switch over to dyns, at slightly below eye level height and all was good.

Still kinda surprised that many don't like the stock location. It's actually not too bad in terms of height, but it's just a pain to get a large tweeter in there. I had to take my Dyns out of their casing and mod them out - looks stealth and nobody knows they're there unless the music is turned on. Quite spacious with generous amounts of detail with no fatigue.

I sold all my MBQ hardware on fleabay - amazing how much you can recover from the "name".

One of the MBQ techs basically told me that they can't get rid of the ringing effects - and that's their weakness to their brand. But the titanium hype sure looks good on their marketing page so many fall for it, until their ears tell them otherwise!

Percy

[/I]


I looked at those also quite a while back, but they didn't have the ultimate accuracy, tonality wise, that I was looking for. At least not to the level of the dyns. If I could get away with it, I would be installing the new esotar2 series in the car, but it's very tough fitting a magnet that size in the stock pillars without attention!