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Old 07-31-02, 05:52 PM
  #16  
BabaBooey
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That's because JL refuses to warranty products sold online, so if you want their products w/ warranty, you're forced to go through a local dealer (which is why I'll never again buy a JL product). Woofersetc.com is an unauthorized dealer, though.
Old 08-06-02, 10:29 AM
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alexulan
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Default JL10IB4

I have a quick question.
My ignorance please execuse.
How do you run an 8 Ohms Sub at 2 Ohms?
What is the result on the amp and the sub?
You don't have to match the sub 8 ohms requirement?

The JL 10IB4 will run only at 8ohms so it will not heat your amp or the sub cone. More expensive subs are so expensive only becuase the cone material must withstand high heat (i.e aluminum) but you dont have this need w/ the JL. The 10IB4 should be pushed with a good class D 400 watt (at 2ohms) or 200 watt (at 4ohms)mono sub amp or bridges amp which will produce 100 watts RMS at 8ohms. I highly suggest the Kicker 400.1
Old 08-06-02, 10:38 AM
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SRLEXUS
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Lightbulb 8ohm JL IB4

hi, the IB4 is ONLY an 8ohm sub. your amp can certainly run at 4 ohms, maybe 2ohms...doesnt really matter. all you have to do is set your amp up to run at 4 ohms--the sub will automatically take an 8ohm load...so, if you have a 400 watt amp at 2 ohms, it will feed 100 watts to an 8 ohm load. if you have a 200 watt amp at 4 ohms, same is true--you'll get 100 watts at 8.

running 8 ohms means the amp is almost 'sleeping' and will remain cool and in great operating condition forever.
Old 08-06-02, 12:58 PM
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stevie
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Except that your amp will be on the verge of clipping trying to deliver 100 watts into eight ohms. The same amp delivering 100 watts into 4 ohms will only be running at half its maximum power.

Stevie
Old 08-06-02, 01:13 PM
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SRLEXUS
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that last reply is not accurate. an amp will not clip just by loading 4 ohm power into higher ohm levels. i have no idea where that post came from--clipping occurs when you cannot get the power from one device to another or when an amp cant produce the power needed...the 8 ohm voive coil in the jl10ib4 sub does not NEED the power and does not ask for it--at 8ohms it is highly efficient. it asks and takes for the max it needs at 8ohms-100 watts . the result is smooth operation that allows continuous rms performance without overworking the amp. this is especially true for professional type class d amplifiers and a good professional install w/ 4 guage wire. i have NEVER experience clipping..it is always better to run an amp at higher ohm levels than lower--lower ohm levels work your amp harder and cause heat, distortion, noise and circuit damage. even if your amp is not designated at "8 ohms" it is better to be able to run higher than lower--the ib4 allows this.
Old 08-06-02, 01:25 PM
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BabaBooey
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"clipping occurs when you cannot get the power from one device to another or when an amp cant produce the power needed"

Huh? When an amp is clipped, it's putting out MORE power than it's designed to, i.e. turning the gains up to a 1V sensitivity while sending it an 8volt signal, then turning the HU up to max volume (you'd also be getting a clipped signal from the preouts). Clipping alone WILL NOT DAMAGE A SUBWOOFER. If you send 500 clipped watts into a DD9515, it will laugh at you. The increased power and decreased voice coil cooling (when clipped, cone stays extended rather than contracting and pushing heat around VC out through the vent) can however damage subwoofers with lesser power handling.

The 8 ohm resistance of the subwoofer is certainly not a blessing. You're simply going to end up paying more for power. I have no idea why JL made this an 8ohm sub, I see one sub used a lot more often in freeair setups than I do multiple...
Old 08-06-02, 01:29 PM
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SRLEXUS
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i agree with that-you are basically going to need an amp costing more b/c you need higher wattage. kicker class d 400.1 is perfect for the 10ib4.

clipping can also occur and usually does occur when there is not enough power--or bad connectivity, hence the term clipping
Old 08-06-02, 01:37 PM
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The top and bottom of the sound waves are cut off, hence the term clipping.
Old 08-06-02, 01:39 PM
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SRLEXUS
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Default baba

right...and that occurs at too much and too little power...especially too little when these sound waves are not being produced
Old 08-06-02, 01:40 PM
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Old 08-06-02, 01:42 PM
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Im kind of late on this post, but I wanted everyone to know that I ran an IB4 in my GS. It was good, especially for a free air replacement, but not up to par with a good sub in a sealed enclosure IMO. Also, Percy is right about the install, its not hard but its not just a drop in either. Also know that it takes awhile to remove the rear deck if you are diy.
Old 08-06-02, 01:45 PM
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SRLEXUS
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what amp and power were you running to it? whay wasnt up to par? thanks
Old 08-06-02, 03:51 PM
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SR, I have to agree with Bababooey here. An 8 ohm subwoofer makes no sense at all unless you are going to use them in pairs. You need all the headroom you can get when producing bass. I say that as someone who is using the stock amp.

I have no opinion about the JL, as I have never heard it. It looks OK. But it would be a lot better if they made it in 4 ohms.

Stevie
Old 08-07-02, 09:26 AM
  #29  
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I was running an us amps 400x. It should of been pumping out at least 200w rms, or about double the ib4's spec @8ohm. So Im pretty sure it wasnt the amp. It simply didnt have any "*****" I know that is a crude explanation, but its fitting IMO. It didnt go low enough and was not very loud (id guess high 130s with that amp), it was fairly accurate, but not close to a good sub in an enclosure.

These are just my opinions, I never measured the equipment but to say that an IB4 was equal to my alchemy or IDQ in a enclosure is just plain false. It is a good sub if you want to replace the factory sub and get more bass, but it is not the answer if you want loud, deep bass.

Stevie, you might be the first person Ive met that hasnt heard JL. They are a marketing machine here in the states, good subs overall but there are better out there.
Old 08-19-02, 11:29 AM
  #30  
liazon
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i am considering purchasing an enclosure w/ a 12" sub that is ported directly into the cabin through the original 10" opening in the rear deck.

which do you guys think is a better way to spend my money? the box w/ the 12 or the free air sub we've been talking about in this forum? i must say that i don't want to get a severe "bumpin" kind of base. i simply want quality.

thanks for your input?!

Last edited by liazon; 08-19-02 at 11:40 AM.


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