Subwoofer Upgrade
07-29-02, 08:19 AM
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Subwoofer Upgrade
Ok, there have been alot of messages back and fourth about upgrading your factory 10" sub in the 1998-current GS models (and other models) using the existing free-air set-up in the rear. Here is a definitve answer/information to any question(s) you may have:
1) You can replace your factory setup with little or no altering of the rear.
2) There are only a few subwofer options that will work best--I will outline your choices below.
3) You don't have to, but should get a separate aftermarket amplifier to power the new sub
Your Lexus has a 'free-air' setup. That means no enclosure (beside your trunk) is needed. Actually ANY sub can be used in a free air setup--but that doesn't mean it SHOULD be used. A BIG misconception is that you can not get quality bass out of free air. That way of thinking couldn't be MORE WORNG! Actually, the very BEST sound quality comes from a good free air setup..that doesnt mean the ground will shake or you that will win SPL contests, but the musical sound quality and frequency response and pure tonal clarity will far exceed sealed, ported or bandpass designs, so take advantage of your GS setup by doing the following:
1) DO NOT use a sub that is "free air compatible" Example, Orions, Infinity Kappa Perects, or basically any sub that costs over $150..(I will explain this pricing later). This is a marketing tactic as any sub is free air compatible--but will not perform if it is not deisgned ONLY to be free air used. DO NOT make the mistake of listening to someone just going by the price of the sub, magnet size or massive look--THIS DOES NOT APPLY IN FREE AIR Continue reading for your options...
2) For a decent upgrade with or without new amp look for Pioneer, Kenwood or Kicker 10" free air subs. They will only provide very modest but still noticable and louder improvement. The problem with these is the only change over the manufacturer's regular subs are the basket design--they use the same synthetic cone material as their regular subs. A good free air sub needs good design structure for free air AND good cone material to be able to push at low wattage. Prices in this area are $55-99. Mounting should be very easy. These are usually 4 ohm subs taking 50-200 watts RMS.
3) There are two high quality, competition level upgrades...The first will be hard to find since it is not in production any longer (and is not as good as the next option)...Oz Audio 250-H free air sub. Excellent free air driver but the better one is...(drum roll please) ...JL10IB4. Ok, for only $100-130 and adding a good amp you will have some of the higest quality bass on planet earth. But you say they look cheap using paper pulp ridged cones???Big mistake to suggest that...The cone material is PERFECT for free air, allowing the sub to produce perfect muscial sound and ultra high efficency as lower watts. These cones cost less to make, that's why they are cheaper than other high end subs. The JL 10IB4 will run only at 8ohms so it will not heat your amp or the sub cone. More expensive subs are so expensive only becuase the cone material must withstand high heat (i.e aluminum) but you dont have this need w/ the JL. The 10IB4 should be pushed with a good class D 400 watt (at 2ohms) or 200 watt (at 4ohms)mono sub amp or bridges amp which will produce 100 watts RMS at 8ohms. I highly suggest the Kicker 400.1
I am actually not a big JL fan becuase the rest of their subs are just okay, BUT this sub is incredible-almost Godly!. It is always used for sound quality in competitions. It will install clean and swap out perfect with the factory sub. The 100 watts will sound like 200 RMS and this will hit low like a 12", but be clear and concise-not sloppy. Use 4 gauge wiring for the amp/ground. Godd luck.
1) You can replace your factory setup with little or no altering of the rear.
2) There are only a few subwofer options that will work best--I will outline your choices below.
3) You don't have to, but should get a separate aftermarket amplifier to power the new sub
Your Lexus has a 'free-air' setup. That means no enclosure (beside your trunk) is needed. Actually ANY sub can be used in a free air setup--but that doesn't mean it SHOULD be used. A BIG misconception is that you can not get quality bass out of free air. That way of thinking couldn't be MORE WORNG! Actually, the very BEST sound quality comes from a good free air setup..that doesnt mean the ground will shake or you that will win SPL contests, but the musical sound quality and frequency response and pure tonal clarity will far exceed sealed, ported or bandpass designs, so take advantage of your GS setup by doing the following:
1) DO NOT use a sub that is "free air compatible" Example, Orions, Infinity Kappa Perects, or basically any sub that costs over $150..(I will explain this pricing later). This is a marketing tactic as any sub is free air compatible--but will not perform if it is not deisgned ONLY to be free air used. DO NOT make the mistake of listening to someone just going by the price of the sub, magnet size or massive look--THIS DOES NOT APPLY IN FREE AIR Continue reading for your options...
2) For a decent upgrade with or without new amp look for Pioneer, Kenwood or Kicker 10" free air subs. They will only provide very modest but still noticable and louder improvement. The problem with these is the only change over the manufacturer's regular subs are the basket design--they use the same synthetic cone material as their regular subs. A good free air sub needs good design structure for free air AND good cone material to be able to push at low wattage. Prices in this area are $55-99. Mounting should be very easy. These are usually 4 ohm subs taking 50-200 watts RMS.
3) There are two high quality, competition level upgrades...The first will be hard to find since it is not in production any longer (and is not as good as the next option)...Oz Audio 250-H free air sub. Excellent free air driver but the better one is...(drum roll please) ...JL10IB4. Ok, for only $100-130 and adding a good amp you will have some of the higest quality bass on planet earth. But you say they look cheap using paper pulp ridged cones???Big mistake to suggest that...The cone material is PERFECT for free air, allowing the sub to produce perfect muscial sound and ultra high efficency as lower watts. These cones cost less to make, that's why they are cheaper than other high end subs. The JL 10IB4 will run only at 8ohms so it will not heat your amp or the sub cone. More expensive subs are so expensive only becuase the cone material must withstand high heat (i.e aluminum) but you dont have this need w/ the JL. The 10IB4 should be pushed with a good class D 400 watt (at 2ohms) or 200 watt (at 4ohms)mono sub amp or bridges amp which will produce 100 watts RMS at 8ohms. I highly suggest the Kicker 400.1
I am actually not a big JL fan becuase the rest of their subs are just okay, BUT this sub is incredible-almost Godly!. It is always used for sound quality in competitions. It will install clean and swap out perfect with the factory sub. The 100 watts will sound like 200 RMS and this will hit low like a 12", but be clear and concise-not sloppy. Use 4 gauge wiring for the amp/ground. Godd luck.
1st generation
07-29-02, 10:17 AM
#6
I couldn't agree more! I actually had a rather large 10 inch sub lying around, so I decided to install it along with a powerfull fosgate amp. Now, don't get me wrong, it is louder, but I can't say I am at all happy with it. Currently, I am shopping for a JL sub to replace it. (The magnet on the previous sub is 40lbs+)
Thanks for the reccomendation!
Thanks for the reccomendation!
07-29-02, 10:23 AM
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GS3InPhx
RUN, dont walk to the JL dealer and order up a 10IB4 for $129.99. It will take 1-2 weeks to arrive. If you want, you can find them online lower--but for the $20 go ahead and special order it from a local dealer--shipping would make the prices equal anyway.
YOU WILL LOVE IT WITH YOUR AMP OR A KICKER 400.1
This is a perfect install in the GS 98 and up and in my opinion is the ONLY REAL option for adding bass to a Mercedes or Lexus...BMWs are hopless no matter what you do to them :-)
YOU WILL LOVE IT WITH YOUR AMP OR A KICKER 400.1
This is a perfect install in the GS 98 and up and in my opinion is the ONLY REAL option for adding bass to a Mercedes or Lexus...BMWs are hopless no matter what you do to them :-)
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07-29-02, 10:28 AM
#9
i cant say that i agree with you on your statement that free air subs are the best for sound quality. from a purely musical standpoint, the only way that you will get "tight' bass is with some sort of enclosure, more often than not a sealed one. with a free air set-up, there is not enough pressure behind the sub to accurately control the cone movement. sure the front and back waves are separated from each other by the deck, but the trunk does not provide enough pressure. at higher music levels this can cause distortion. it all depends on musical preference and the type of music that you listen to. when i competed ('93 3rd place IASCA world finals, novice 0-50....highest sound q scores in all of novice, my curve stunk) i used fiberglass to seal the entire trunk from the cabin. i then went with 2 JL 10w6s in a sealed enclosure of about .9 cu ft. and used a PPI ProMos 50 to run all of the speakers in the car. i have been out of the loop for a while now, but back in the day you couldnt beat JL. just my 2 cents.......
Doc
Doc
07-29-02, 10:43 AM
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To the Dr.
Your response is noted and you are correct--VERY difficult to get a good free air setup sounding great--but that is not the case with this particular sub.
The way this sub is designed - the response is flat and the ultra rigid basket allows maximum cone excursion to create acceptable and some nice air pressure too--like i said, you are not going to win sound pressure level contests, but i dont think that's the object here. Also note that the free air will hit lower notes pound for pound.
A sealed enclosure produces nice tight bass--but not as tight and accurate as a perfectly amp-matched 10IB4 with cone movement control (from the amp). In fact, I tried many sealed enclosures in the GS and to be honest it is a nightmare.
1) bass is totally not matched with the cabin if its in the GS trunk b/c the extreme dampening lexus uses
2) car rattles and distors with sealed enclosure in the GS
I know what you mena by distorting the free airs--but if you run the 100rms at 8ohms in to this baby--you'll be great to go.
The way this sub is designed - the response is flat and the ultra rigid basket allows maximum cone excursion to create acceptable and some nice air pressure too--like i said, you are not going to win sound pressure level contests, but i dont think that's the object here. Also note that the free air will hit lower notes pound for pound.
A sealed enclosure produces nice tight bass--but not as tight and accurate as a perfectly amp-matched 10IB4 with cone movement control (from the amp). In fact, I tried many sealed enclosures in the GS and to be honest it is a nightmare.
1) bass is totally not matched with the cabin if its in the GS trunk b/c the extreme dampening lexus uses
2) car rattles and distors with sealed enclosure in the GS
I know what you mena by distorting the free airs--but if you run the 100rms at 8ohms in to this baby--you'll be great to go.
07-30-02, 12:38 PM
#12
Had the Pioneer and the JL 10IB4, and to be honest, the Dynaudio MW190 blows these two away. Granted it cost 300.00
bucks and is a 12, the best thing I ever did was cut the back deck of my SC 400. For a free air configuration I am EXTREMELY pleased. Not trying to knock the JL, that's all I've ever owned subwoofer wise, but for SQ, the Dyn is in a class by itself.
S
bucks and is a 12, the best thing I ever did was cut the back deck of my SC 400. For a free air configuration I am EXTREMELY pleased. Not trying to knock the JL, that's all I've ever owned subwoofer wise, but for SQ, the Dyn is in a class by itself.
S
07-30-02, 12:40 PM
#13
Say what?
"1) bass is totally not matched with the cabin if its in the GS trunk b/c the extreme dampening lexus uses
2) car rattles and distors with sealed enclosure in the GS"
Where are you putting the sealed enclosure(s) that you've used???? To do this right, it must be hung from the rear deck so that the woofer is nearly in the same spot as it would be free-air. If you plop a sealed enclosure anywhere in the trunk and don't tie it directly to the cabin (and seal it off from the rest of the trunk, then of course what you're saying is true. It's like apples and oranges.
You can't tell me that a properly designed AND PLACED sealed enclosure using a good SQ/SPL sub won't beat the pants off of your free-air when it's cranked up. Sure, SPL contests are not necessarily the object, but some of us GS owners like our SQ and SPL too. Penny, cake, and ice cream. Well, maybe not the penny...
2) car rattles and distors with sealed enclosure in the GS"
Where are you putting the sealed enclosure(s) that you've used???? To do this right, it must be hung from the rear deck so that the woofer is nearly in the same spot as it would be free-air. If you plop a sealed enclosure anywhere in the trunk and don't tie it directly to the cabin (and seal it off from the rest of the trunk, then of course what you're saying is true. It's like apples and oranges.
You can't tell me that a properly designed AND PLACED sealed enclosure using a good SQ/SPL sub won't beat the pants off of your free-air when it's cranked up. Sure, SPL contests are not necessarily the object, but some of us GS owners like our SQ and SPL too. Penny, cake, and ice cream. Well, maybe not the penny...
07-30-02, 09:21 PM
#14
Moderator - Electronics Forum
Re: Subwoofer Upgrade
Originally posted by SRLEXUS
Ok, there have been alot of messages back and fourth about upgrading your factory 10" sub in the 1998-current GS models (and other models) using the existing free-air set-up in the rear. Here is a definitve answer/information to any question(s) you may have:
1) You can replace your factory setup with little or no altering of the rear.
***To a certain extent. You'll still need a baffle of some sort as the stock bolt locations will not match those of an aftermarket 10 inch speaker.***
2) There are only a few subwofer options that will work best--I will outline your choices below.
***PURELY subjective. It all depends on your system goal. What works "the best" will not be "the best" for another person.***
3) You don't have to, but should get a separate aftermarket amplifier to power the new sub
***I'd recommend getting a more powerful aftermarket amp. The stock Pioneer/Premium was designed for a 2 ohm impedance. If you replace it out for a 4 ohm speaker/sub, you'll lose alot in terms of overall volume. SImple ohms law.***
Your Lexus has a 'free-air' setup. That means no enclosure (beside your trunk) is needed.
***But the real question is, do you really want to use free air? Once again it depends on your system goals.***
Actually ANY sub can be used in a free air setup--but that doesn't mean it SHOULD be used. A BIG misconception is that you can not get quality bass out of free air. That way of thinking couldn't be MORE WORNG! Actually, the very BEST sound quality comes from a good free air setup..that doesnt mean the ground will shake or you that will win SPL contests, but the musical sound quality and frequency response and pure tonal clarity will far exceed sealed, ported or bandpass designs, so take advantage of your GS setup by doing the following:
***What do you term as the best? Goal? So far the "best" (Sound Quality, low distortion in both 2nd and 3rd harmonics as well as handling transients in a quick manner) that I've heard is a Velodyne in a SEALED enclosure. They also sound fantastic in a ported or free air configuration. Reason...active outboard controller. Suspension is actively variable due to the controller, feedback loop and accelerometers involved. 2nd place for SQ, ime, would be Dynaudio.***
1) DO NOT use a sub that is "free air compatible" Example, Orions, Infinity Kappa Perects, or basically any sub that costs over $150..(I will explain this pricing later).
***The Velodyne is a 1200 dollar MSRP sub. I'd take this over the 150 dollar sub anyday. Proven in real world and on the test bench - though they are rare to find. Also proven is the 300+ dollar Dynaudio MW190/MW180 subwoofer. 2nd harmonics are quite low as well as the 3rd harmonics. ***
This is a marketing tactic as any sub is free air compatible--but will not perform if it is not deisgned ONLY to be free air used. DO NOT make the mistake of listening to someone just going by the price of the sub, magnet size or massive look--THIS DOES NOT APPLY IN FREE AIR Continue reading for your options...
***This is where you have to do your homework. Search out for distortion graphs and if the company doesn't have them, call up their tech support department. If they won't supply them, then they're hiding something nasty. Plain and simple.***
2) For a decent upgrade with or without new amp look for Pioneer, Kenwood or Kicker 10" free air subs. They will only provide very modest but still noticable and louder improvement. The problem with these is the only change over the manufacturer's regular subs are the basket design--they use the same synthetic cone material as their regular subs. A good free air sub needs good design structure for free air AND good cone material to be able to push at low wattage. Prices in this area are $55-99. Mounting should be very easy. These are usually 4 ohm subs taking 50-200 watts RMS.
3) There are two high quality, competition level upgrades...The first will be hard to find since it is not in production any longer (and is not as good as the next option)...Oz Audio 250-H free air sub. Excellent free air driver but the better one is...(drum roll please) ...JL10IB4. Ok, for only $100-130 and adding a good amp you will have some of the higest quality bass on planet earth.
***What other subs have you listened to? ***
But you say they look cheap using paper pulp ridged cones???Big mistake to suggest that...The cone material is PERFECT for free air, allowing the sub to produce perfect muscial sound and ultra high efficency as lower watts.
*** "MUSICAL" - subjective. Let's put it on the Bruel and Kjaer analyzer and see how "accurate" it is.***
These cones cost less to make, that's why they are cheaper than other high end subs. The JL 10IB4 will run only at 8ohms so it will not heat your amp or the sub cone. More expensive subs are so expensive only becuase the cone material must withstand high heat (i.e aluminum) but you dont have this need w/ the JL.
***You're only looking at one part of the "package". Cone material is important, but there are other ways to vent heat buildup when using more powerful amps. Sure, aluminum acts as a nice heatsink, but that's only part of the solution. Try looking at the Dynaudio series subwoofers. Vented pole designs, which other manufacturers also have. Also, don't forget the former coil material. Aluminum? Copper? This helps with the heat also. How about the suspension? You guessed it...this helps too. The entire picture has to be looked at, not just the cone material.***
The 10IB4 should be pushed with a good class D 400 watt (at 2ohms) or 200 watt (at 4ohms)mono sub amp or bridges amp which will produce 100 watts RMS at 8ohms. I highly suggest the Kicker 400.1
I am actually not a big JL fan becuase the rest of their subs are just okay, BUT this sub is incredible-almost Godly!.
***Once again, what subs have you listened to? Yes, the JL's will sound "almost Godly" if you've only listened to that "level" of sub. They're good subs, but definitely NOT the last word if you're after the ultimate sound quality goal. Try listening to a Velodyne DF12sc or the Velodyne DF10sc. Or the Dynaudio subs.***
It is always used for sound quality in competitions.
***There are MANY levels of equipment in competitions. Doesn't mean that they're the "best" at sound quality/accuracy and low distortion. Just because they're in competition doesn't mean they're "the best". It's a common mistake. Also it's a good form of advertisement and sales HYPE. Take MB Quart for example. "Most winning speaker" in soundoff competitions. Are they considered "the best" in terms of extremely low distortion and ultra accurate rendering of music as well as vocals? If your answer was "yes" then think again. Do your homework. The same applies for most of the equipment that you see at competitions. Also, it depends on their goals. The terms "reference" and "sound quality" are often misused.***
It will install clean and swap out perfect with the factory sub.
***Do you have pictures of the install? Last I've seen, the 10 inch sub used (at least in the '98 GS anyways) different mounting locations. Stock pioneer sub was mounted on a metal plate that was integral to the sub and not removable. Didn't look like a aftermarket sub would just "drop right in" using the same mounting locations. Pictures please.***
The 100 watts will sound like 200 RMS and this will hit low like a 12",
***As compared to what?***
but be clear and concise-not sloppy.
***Once again, as compared to what?***
Use 4 gauge wiring for the amp/ground.
***Good recommendation.***
Godd luck.
***Thanks.
***
Ok, there have been alot of messages back and fourth about upgrading your factory 10" sub in the 1998-current GS models (and other models) using the existing free-air set-up in the rear. Here is a definitve answer/information to any question(s) you may have:
1) You can replace your factory setup with little or no altering of the rear.
***To a certain extent. You'll still need a baffle of some sort as the stock bolt locations will not match those of an aftermarket 10 inch speaker.***
2) There are only a few subwofer options that will work best--I will outline your choices below.
***PURELY subjective. It all depends on your system goal. What works "the best" will not be "the best" for another person.***
3) You don't have to, but should get a separate aftermarket amplifier to power the new sub
***I'd recommend getting a more powerful aftermarket amp. The stock Pioneer/Premium was designed for a 2 ohm impedance. If you replace it out for a 4 ohm speaker/sub, you'll lose alot in terms of overall volume. SImple ohms law.***
Your Lexus has a 'free-air' setup. That means no enclosure (beside your trunk) is needed.
***But the real question is, do you really want to use free air? Once again it depends on your system goals.***
Actually ANY sub can be used in a free air setup--but that doesn't mean it SHOULD be used. A BIG misconception is that you can not get quality bass out of free air. That way of thinking couldn't be MORE WORNG! Actually, the very BEST sound quality comes from a good free air setup..that doesnt mean the ground will shake or you that will win SPL contests, but the musical sound quality and frequency response and pure tonal clarity will far exceed sealed, ported or bandpass designs, so take advantage of your GS setup by doing the following:
***What do you term as the best? Goal? So far the "best" (Sound Quality, low distortion in both 2nd and 3rd harmonics as well as handling transients in a quick manner) that I've heard is a Velodyne in a SEALED enclosure. They also sound fantastic in a ported or free air configuration. Reason...active outboard controller. Suspension is actively variable due to the controller, feedback loop and accelerometers involved. 2nd place for SQ, ime, would be Dynaudio.***
1) DO NOT use a sub that is "free air compatible" Example, Orions, Infinity Kappa Perects, or basically any sub that costs over $150..(I will explain this pricing later).
***The Velodyne is a 1200 dollar MSRP sub. I'd take this over the 150 dollar sub anyday. Proven in real world and on the test bench - though they are rare to find. Also proven is the 300+ dollar Dynaudio MW190/MW180 subwoofer. 2nd harmonics are quite low as well as the 3rd harmonics. ***
This is a marketing tactic as any sub is free air compatible--but will not perform if it is not deisgned ONLY to be free air used. DO NOT make the mistake of listening to someone just going by the price of the sub, magnet size or massive look--THIS DOES NOT APPLY IN FREE AIR Continue reading for your options...
***This is where you have to do your homework. Search out for distortion graphs and if the company doesn't have them, call up their tech support department. If they won't supply them, then they're hiding something nasty. Plain and simple.***
2) For a decent upgrade with or without new amp look for Pioneer, Kenwood or Kicker 10" free air subs. They will only provide very modest but still noticable and louder improvement. The problem with these is the only change over the manufacturer's regular subs are the basket design--they use the same synthetic cone material as their regular subs. A good free air sub needs good design structure for free air AND good cone material to be able to push at low wattage. Prices in this area are $55-99. Mounting should be very easy. These are usually 4 ohm subs taking 50-200 watts RMS.
3) There are two high quality, competition level upgrades...The first will be hard to find since it is not in production any longer (and is not as good as the next option)...Oz Audio 250-H free air sub. Excellent free air driver but the better one is...(drum roll please) ...JL10IB4. Ok, for only $100-130 and adding a good amp you will have some of the higest quality bass on planet earth.
***What other subs have you listened to? ***
But you say they look cheap using paper pulp ridged cones???Big mistake to suggest that...The cone material is PERFECT for free air, allowing the sub to produce perfect muscial sound and ultra high efficency as lower watts.
*** "MUSICAL" - subjective. Let's put it on the Bruel and Kjaer analyzer and see how "accurate" it is.***
These cones cost less to make, that's why they are cheaper than other high end subs. The JL 10IB4 will run only at 8ohms so it will not heat your amp or the sub cone. More expensive subs are so expensive only becuase the cone material must withstand high heat (i.e aluminum) but you dont have this need w/ the JL.
***You're only looking at one part of the "package". Cone material is important, but there are other ways to vent heat buildup when using more powerful amps. Sure, aluminum acts as a nice heatsink, but that's only part of the solution. Try looking at the Dynaudio series subwoofers. Vented pole designs, which other manufacturers also have. Also, don't forget the former coil material. Aluminum? Copper? This helps with the heat also. How about the suspension? You guessed it...this helps too. The entire picture has to be looked at, not just the cone material.***
The 10IB4 should be pushed with a good class D 400 watt (at 2ohms) or 200 watt (at 4ohms)mono sub amp or bridges amp which will produce 100 watts RMS at 8ohms. I highly suggest the Kicker 400.1
I am actually not a big JL fan becuase the rest of their subs are just okay, BUT this sub is incredible-almost Godly!.
***Once again, what subs have you listened to? Yes, the JL's will sound "almost Godly" if you've only listened to that "level" of sub. They're good subs, but definitely NOT the last word if you're after the ultimate sound quality goal. Try listening to a Velodyne DF12sc or the Velodyne DF10sc. Or the Dynaudio subs.***
It is always used for sound quality in competitions.
***There are MANY levels of equipment in competitions. Doesn't mean that they're the "best" at sound quality/accuracy and low distortion. Just because they're in competition doesn't mean they're "the best". It's a common mistake. Also it's a good form of advertisement and sales HYPE. Take MB Quart for example. "Most winning speaker" in soundoff competitions. Are they considered "the best" in terms of extremely low distortion and ultra accurate rendering of music as well as vocals? If your answer was "yes" then think again. Do your homework. The same applies for most of the equipment that you see at competitions. Also, it depends on their goals. The terms "reference" and "sound quality" are often misused.***
It will install clean and swap out perfect with the factory sub.
***Do you have pictures of the install? Last I've seen, the 10 inch sub used (at least in the '98 GS anyways) different mounting locations. Stock pioneer sub was mounted on a metal plate that was integral to the sub and not removable. Didn't look like a aftermarket sub would just "drop right in" using the same mounting locations. Pictures please.***
The 100 watts will sound like 200 RMS and this will hit low like a 12",
***As compared to what?***
but be clear and concise-not sloppy.
***Once again, as compared to what?***
Use 4 gauge wiring for the amp/ground.
***Good recommendation.***
Godd luck.
***Thanks.
***
07-31-02, 05:09 PM
#15
Lexus Test Driver
Join Date: Feb 2001
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Re: GS3InPhx
Originally posted by SRLEXUS
RUN, dont walk to the JL dealer and order up a 10IB4 for $129.99. It will take 1-2 weeks to arrive. If you want, you can find them online lower--but for the $20 go ahead and special order it from a local dealer--shipping would make the prices equal anyway.
YOU WILL LOVE IT WITH YOUR AMP OR A KICKER 400.1
This is a perfect install in the GS 98 and up and in my opinion is the ONLY REAL option for adding bass to a Mercedes or Lexus...BMWs are hopless no matter what you do to them :-)
RUN, dont walk to the JL dealer and order up a 10IB4 for $129.99. It will take 1-2 weeks to arrive. If you want, you can find them online lower--but for the $20 go ahead and special order it from a local dealer--shipping would make the prices equal anyway.
YOU WILL LOVE IT WITH YOUR AMP OR A KICKER 400.1
This is a perfect install in the GS 98 and up and in my opinion is the ONLY REAL option for adding bass to a Mercedes or Lexus...BMWs are hopless no matter what you do to them :-)
Thanks, Tiny