SRLEXUS

Ok, there have been alot of messages back and fourth about upgrading your factory 10" sub in the 1998-current GS models (and other models) using the existing free-air set-up in the rear. Here is a definitve answer/information to any question(s) you may have:

1) You can replace your factory setup with little or no altering of the rear.
2) There are only a few subwofer options that will work best--I will outline your choices below.
3) You don't have to, but should get a separate aftermarket amplifier to power the new sub

Your Lexus has a 'free-air' setup. That means no enclosure (beside your trunk) is needed. Actually ANY sub can be used in a free air setup--but that doesn't mean it SHOULD be used. A BIG misconception is that you can not get quality bass out of free air. That way of thinking couldn't be MORE WORNG! Actually, the very BEST sound quality comes from a good free air setup..that doesnt mean the ground will shake or you that will win SPL contests, but the musical sound quality and frequency response and pure tonal clarity will far exceed sealed, ported or bandpass designs, so take advantage of your GS setup by doing the following:

1) DO NOT use a sub that is "free air compatible" Example, Orions, Infinity Kappa PerFects, Image Dynamics, or basically any sub that costs over $150..(I will explain this pricing later). This is a marketing tactic as any sub is free air compatible--but will not perform if it is not deisgned ONLY to be free air used. DO NOT make the mistake of listening to someone just going by the price of the sub, magnet size or massive look--THIS DOES NOT APPLY IN FREE AIR Continue reading for your options...

2) For a decent upgrade with or without new amp look for Pioneer, Kenwood or Kicker 10" free air subs. They will only provide very modest but still noticable and louder improvement. The problem with these is the only change over the manufacturer's regular subs are the basket design--they use the same synthetic cone material as their regular subs. A good free air sub needs good design structure for free air AND good cone material to be able to push at low wattage. Prices in this area are $55-99. Mounting should be very easy. These are usually 4 ohm subs taking 50-200 watts RMS.

3) There are two high quality, competition level upgrades...The first will be hard to find since it is not in production any longer (and is not as good as the next option)...Oz Audio 250-H free air sub. Excellent free air driver but the better one is...(drum roll please) ...JL10IB4. Ok, for only $100-130 and adding a good amp you will have some of the higest quality bass on planet earth. But you say they look cheap using paper pulp ridged cones???Big mistake to suggest that...The cone material is PERFECT for free air, allowing the sub to produce perfect muscial sound and ultra high efficency as lower watts. These cones cost less to make, that's why they are cheaper than other high end subs. The JL 10IB4 will run only at 8ohms so it will not heat your amp or the sub cone. More expensive subs are so expensive only becuase the cone material must withstand high heat (i.e aluminum) but you dont have this need w/ the JL. The 10IB4 should be pushed with a good class D 400 watt (at 2ohms) or 200 watt (at 4ohms)mono sub amp or bridged amp which will produce 100 watts RMS at 8ohms. I highly suggest the Kicker 400.1

I am actually not a big JL fan becuase the rest of their subs are just okay, BUT this sub is incredible-almost Godly!. It is always used for sound quality in competitions. It will install clean and swap out perfect with the factory sub. The 100 watts will sound like 200 RMS and this will hit low like a 12", but be clear and concise-not sloppy. Use 4 gauge wiring for the amp/ground. Good luck. This should help those that may be misled by a store owner to buy a more expensive image dynamics or other expensive sub--these subs will certainly do FAR worse than better for you and SHOULD NOT BE USED in a Lexus factory free air area. I have not only tried and heard all of the above mentioned options, but have spoken in lengthy conversations with all techincal departments to the manufacturers I listed. If you need high quality bass in your GS and dont mind spending around $130 on the sub, $300-350 on the amp, $30 for the amp wire kit and $100 for the professional install--RUN, do not walk to your neearest JL Audio provider.

whitels

If you simply put a separate amp to the GS sub, what would you recommend? (rms, etc).

Do you know the existing rms power going to the stock sub now? Thanks for the informative write-up.

BabaBooey

"but the musical sound quality and frequency response and pure tonal clarity will far exceed sealed, ported or bandpass designs"

Then all SQ competitors would run freeair...

"or basically any sub that costs over $150..(I will explain this pricing later). This is a marketing tactic as any sub is free air compatible--but will not perform if it is not deisgned ONLY to be free air used."



"allowing the sub to produce perfect muscial sound and ultra high efficency as lower watts. "

High efficiency in freeair? WOW, that's unheard of! Uh oh, just broke my sarcasm meter.

"More expensive subs are so expensive only becuase the cone material must withstand high heat (i.e aluminum) but you dont have this need w/ the JL."

Yes, cone material is the only reason that a W7 is more expensive than it's IB4 compadre.

"If you need high quality bass in your GS and dont mind spending around $130 on the sub, $300-350 on the amp, $30 for the amp wire kit and $100 for the professional install--RUN, do not walk to your neearest JL Audio provider."

No.

Percy

Percy