thwang99

Hi all,

I went to a good audio store today, and took the plunge!!!!!! Spent around $2,600 on the following system, including installation, in a 2000 GS400 with the stock navigation system. They are mounting the stock receiver in the glovebox.

Boston Accoustics Rally 6.5 component speakers, RC620, in the fronts

Stock speakers in the rear and stock sub used to save costs

JL Audio 500/5 amplifier

Alpine CDA-7892 head unit, with Alpine CHA-S634 CD changer

They're using the cheapest monster cables, but 4GA power wiring, charged me $150 for this.

Does this seem about right? Anyways, I plan on upgrading to Focal speakers in the front in the future, moving the Rally's to the rear, and adding a subwoofer, and an equalizer. They're able to use an RTA to tune the equalizer.

What brand/type of equalizer do you guys recommend? Also, I plan on using the subwoofer without an enclosure, using the trunk as my enclosure. Originally they recommended a JL Audio sub for $159, I think it was 12" or 15" or something like that. Anyways, I don't know anything about car audio, but I used to be into home theater. Wish me luck guys!!!! I will post pictures if anyone is interested.

This is so fun! But it's WAY more costly than I expected. I was expecting $2k for the above, plus an equalizer, and a subwoofer, and rear speakers. Also, I originally wanted Dynaudio's but those were $750! But they sounded better than the Rally's, the Rally's sounded bright.

- Tony

Ag02M5

Sounds high to me...I'd at least expect the rear speakers to be upgraded (they are crap) and a sub of some type...possible JL infinite baffle.

Ask them to break down the equipment cost vs. install cost. That might give a better idea.

There isn't much custom work and no sub enclosure to build either.

whitels

Congrats. Anyway, how did you integrate the audio controls in the navigation, or you didn't? Any pics of the install?

CamRen

i say get stuff on whole sale.. know some people around that know how to do things..
and you can cutt your cost about 60-70%

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

Replacement of sub HIGHLY recommended while they're doing the rest of your system. The stock sub is horrendous. You may also toast the stock sub with a 500/5 (250W RMS) if you plan on playing at higher volumes. The JL 10IB4 (10") free-air is not expensive, relatively easy to install, and much better than the stock sub if you strictly want to keep costs down.

thwang99

Hi all,

Well, it's been about a week or two that I've had my new system. I love it!!!!!!

It's so much better than stock. Some things I've noticed, are these usual, what do you recommend I do to fix this?:

1. I've been turning the fader setting so that most of the sound is forward. The setting goes from -15 to +15, I have it currently set to +6 to +8 in the front. I found that when I have it set to neutral, the sound sounds "disconnected", like you are listening to two different systems playing the same sound. I plan on getting Dynaudio 240's in the front, and moving my Boston Accoustics Rally's to the back to replace the stock speakers.

2. I've noticed, when listening to a recording with female vocals, especially when the artist hits a high, loud note, that if I have my front speakers turned up anything approaching loud, the sound sounds distorted! My home system (B&W DM602's with a 5W single ended triode tube amp) NEVER sounds distorted, maybe that's cause it's a tube system. Is the JL 500/5 a good amp? I thought it was! Should I get a seperate amp for my front speakers when I get the Dynaudio 240's? If so, what do I do with two extra 100W channels?

3. Now that I've been listening more critically, I've noticed rattling! For example, the plastic thing that covers the compartments in the bottom of the GS400's doors rattle, and the speaker grills rattle. I have stock speaker grills. Is there a way to fix this myself?

I will be posting pictures soon, have to get around to taking them when there's sunlight.

- Tony

BabaBooey

Ouch, there's no way you should have to spend $2600 on a system that's below exceptional quality. Why did you continue to purchase the Rally's when you weren't happy with the sound? Anyway, don't overpay for yet another product, skip the JL and look into the Elemental Designs A and K series. Will definitely outdo the JL IB4 in terms of output, and you'll most likely prefer its SQ as well.
www.edesignaudio.com

There's nothing wrong with the JL amp other than it's overpriced IMO. Use 4 channels to power the Dyn's. Hell, use 4 channels to power the Bostons while you have them. Are they biampable? Can the JL amp be crossed over in the 3500hz range? Take advantage of having a 4 channel amp rather than wasting it on rearfill.

And there are plenty of sound deadening sprays that you can try out to dampen the grills. I can't figure out what the other thing vibrating is, maybe someone else can give you advice.

Percy

Tony,

Which artist are you playing? With some of the artist recordings, there is some distortion going on. Also, the B&W with a tube amp is good for "easy" listening, but a tube amp will not resolve the minute details. For the most part, they're for "warm and fuzzy" listening...not a bad thing!

Percy

thwang99

Hi Percy,

A concert by Faye Wong. Yes there might be distortion on the recording, didn't think of that! The distortion doesn't seem to appear until you turn up the volume, though. Is that normal? That at low volumes, you wouldn't hear the distortiong? Hopefully the Dynaudio 240's I've ordered will not have this problem, as they are "softer" sounding speakers.

Hi BabaBooey,

What does using 4 channels to power the Dyn's do? So, 25watts for the tweeters, and 100watts for the mids?

What would I use to power the rear fills? Just get any cheapo 2 channel amp? Maybe I should get a McIntosh amp (the press seems to indicate they are great), and use the McIntosh for the front mid's of the Dyn's, and the 100w channels of the JL 500/5 for the Dyn tweets, and the 25w channels of the JL 500/5 for the rear fills?

Man this is getting expensive! Yes I know $2600 is a lot for this system, the place I went to was overpriced, though they did a great job.
- Tony

GS3InPhx

I want to see pics of the dash kit that they made, and how much they charged you for specifically that!??


Personally, I would have never moved that stock nav. and just used the stock head until I could replace the entire sytem. But thats just me.

Percy

Tony,

I would classify the Dyns as being more "neutral" than anything else. They don't jump at your throat to strangle you with overbrightness or harshness. But, some people do like them bright while others like them more laid back sounding. Each to his/her own and that's why I suggest listening to them (and tuning out for them) before making a final decision.

Definitely use the McIntosh for the Dyns. Dyns are notorious for revealing EVERYTHING in the signal path (interconnects, etc) and in the music itself. What you *thought* you were hearing with one brand of speakers actually turns out to be obvious when listening to the same source with the Dyns.

Percy

thwang99

Hi Percy,

Thanks for the advice! By the way, if I do get the Mac, what would I do with the JL 500/5? What is the general recommendation? Should I use the 500/5's 100W's for the rear fills, and just not use the 25W speakers?

- Tony

Percy

I'd suggest using them for rear fills or the sub (if there's enough power). Just not for the Dyns.

Better yet, just for fun, listen through the JL amp with the Dyns and then through the McIntosh with the Dyns. Quite a bit of difference!

Percy

thwang99

Here's some picts of my install (finally got around to posting these!).

Here's the amp. There's a covering that covers all the wires, it's made of material that matches the stock trunk "carpeting".

thwang99

Here's the changer in the glovebox.