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Old 03-24-11, 04:05 PM
  #16  
Lex Luga
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Very nice indeed! Now i will get this and will not have to spend on the oem JL sealed enclosure which is $325 from the audio shop.
Old 03-25-11, 04:46 PM
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Lex Luga
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Hey Mkorsu, how does this box compare to the one i posted before?

http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-Audio-10W7-se...b#ht_884wt_849

I appreciate the long explanations
Old 03-25-11, 06:18 PM
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mkorsu
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Originally Posted by Lex Luga
Hey Mkorsu, how does this box compare to the one i posted before?

http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-Audio-10W7-se...b#ht_884wt_849

I appreciate the long explanations
It appears to be roughly the same except for the thinner baffle of 1" as opposed to the other that has a 1.5" baffle. Either way is fine but the 1.5" will be slightly stronger.
Old 03-29-11, 02:20 PM
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i went with the 1.5" one...should be here by friday..hopefully amp and sub in box installed on saturday
Old 03-30-11, 11:47 AM
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ExcessFC
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Good luck, those woofers love slot vented, but sealed is also great if you have enough juice. I have ran both on my W6v2 and my old W7.

They are truly amazing when they are in a box made for them! Moved down to a 10W6V2 not too long ago for various reasons, and miss my W7 for sure.

Also, make sure you save the box the woofer comes in!! Inner and outer carton!
Old 03-31-11, 10:05 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ExcessFC
Good luck, those woofers love slot vented, but sealed is also great if you have enough juice. I have ran both on my W6v2 and my old W7.

They are truly amazing when they are in a box made for them! Moved down to a 10W6V2 not too long ago for various reasons, and miss my W7 for sure.

Also, make sure you save the box the woofer comes in!! Inner and outer carton!
Ok i will save the box it came in (for resale purposes?).. i have a alpine which puts out 1000 watts amp at 2 ohms/600 watts at 4 ohms, so i figure 800 watts at 3 ohms which the 10w7 is. Is that powerful enough? Ive seen a buncha members running the jl 500 watt amp
Old 03-31-11, 10:24 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Lex Luga
Ok i will save the box it came in (for resale purposes?)
Resale or warranty. That sub is a beast, so shipping must be done with care. The original packaging takes this into account, so JL recommends you keep it just in case.

Big Mack
Old 03-31-11, 04:35 PM
  #23  
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Ok cool i just picked it up today from ups store..it got shipped in the original box.
Old 04-05-11, 08:01 AM
  #24  
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Getting install at the audio shop atm..they told me they will not remove the free air stock sub, bc one it's a bittch to take out n two it will still be covered in the trunk (in its housing). They said it wouldn't make too much of a difference in sound/bass, but im more worried about more rattling. What do you guys think?
Old 04-05-11, 09:18 AM
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Find a new shop. They don't want to remove it because they are lazy and don't want to invest time for a better sounding result!!!

By leaving the stock speaker in its location they are effectively using it as a passive radiator. PRs work well when properly used. First they have to be at a minimum, one size larger then the powered driver (s). ie 12" are powered, 15" Passive Radiator. Second, they should not have any motor assembly (voice coil, magnet, pole, front and back plate).

The stock sub should most definately be removed!!!

Your shop is is either lieing to you about it not making a difference in sound and/or they no NOTHING about enclosures, enclosure design, and basic sound/audio theory!
Old 04-05-11, 05:21 PM
  #26  
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They (Sound Concept, located in Rockland county, Nanuet NY) said they would do it for another hour of labor at a rate of $85. But i opted not to, maybe i should go back tomorrow and get it done, but i am skeptical bc the shifter box rectangular hole thingy is dented..(I am OCD when it comes to cleanliness and detail..of many things including my car, so small things like this bother me)..

JL 10w7-imag0083.jpg

and they pulled the liner of the trunk and it is not as tight as it used to be. I pulled and pushed to try to get it back to normal to no avail. Look left of the "screw", It is not flush with the right side and is a little loose. They did not use the "plastic square access latch" in the trunk where you can pop it open and get under the trunk liner.

*EDIT* I actually just noticed in my full trunk picture on the bottom that some of the rubber is behind the trunk liner, so i ran my finger behind the rubber to get it in front of the liner like it is supposed to be, and the panel that wasn't flush before seems to be flush again. It just seems like the liner is loose. I honestly don't know if it is normally like that, but i can bet it isn't.

JL 10w7-imag0082.jpg

Honestly i am happy with the sound for the most part, its 8 out of 10. Maybe if i get the stock sub removed it will be 10 out of 10. I have two complaints: 1) the bass is too booming when the volume isnt even that high. (maybe it's because i have a 10w7 lol) Seriously though, can this be adjusted with the amp settings (gain, low pass filter, and bass booster)? 2) the amp settings are very hard to adjust thanks to how they set it up. The settings are on the left side of the amp and the sub enclosure is like 1 inch away from it on the left side, so it's nearly impossible to change. The guy adjusted the settings once but, I dont know how since the space is so tight. I might just go back tomorrow to get the amp re positioned (better be for free) so i can play around with adjustments until i get it exactly to my liking.

JL 10w7-imag0081.jpg

Last edited by Lex Luga; 04-05-11 at 05:39 PM.
Old 04-05-11, 06:01 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mkorsu
Find a new shop. They don't want to remove it because they are lazy and don't want to invest time for a better sounding result!!!
Agreed. Especially after reading his post.

Originally Posted by mkorsu
By leaving the stock speaker in its location they are effectively using it as a passive radiator. PRs work well when properly used. First they have to be at a minimum, one size larger then the powered driver (s). ie 12" are powered, 15" Passive Radiator. Second, they should not have any motor assembly (voice coil, magnet, pole, front and back plate).
Hmmm...I'd use ineffectively since it will suck with it in there. FYI, however, PR's do not need to be a size larger. You can build quite a nice sounding system with a PR the exact same size as the original driver provided it is weighted correctly and the enclosure is designed properly. Kinda like this one and this one. You're right in that it should not have a motor structure at all (this is everything in the assembly you broke down ).

Originally Posted by mkorsu
The stock sub should most definately be removed!!!
Agreed - it "definitely" should.

Originally Posted by mkorsu
Your shop is is either lieing to you about it not making a difference in sound and/or they no NOTHING about enclosures, enclosure design, and basic sound/audio theory!
I'm going with bofum. They're lying AND they know nothing about basic theory.

Big Mack
Old 04-05-11, 07:08 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Big Mack
Agreed. Especially after reading his post.



Hmmm...I'd use ineffectively since it will suck with it in there. FYI, however, PR's do not need to be a size larger. You can build quite a nice sounding system with a PR the exact same size as the original driver provided it is weighted correctly and the enclosure is designed properly. Kinda like this one and this one. You're right in that it should not have a motor structure at all (this is everything in the assembly you broke down ).



Agreed - it "definitely" should.



I'm going with bofum. They're lying AND they know nothing about basic theory.

Big Mack
Thanks Mack!!!

I know you'll always have good info for me if I don't have the totally correct answer.

Interesting to learn that about passive radiators. I don't have a ton of experience with them, just some basic knowledge and minimal exposure. But I always love learning more!!!
Old 04-05-11, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mkorsu
Thanks Mack!!!

I know you'll always have good info for me if I don't have the totally correct answer.

Interesting to learn that about passive radiators. I don't have a ton of experience with them, just some basic knowledge and minimal exposure. But I always love learning more!!!
Quite welcome, mang. Hopefully it helps the OP, too.

Interestingly, I learned more about PR's by experimenting when I was first starting out. Bought a couple generic ones and a couple of very basic 8" subs and had a good time. It was absolutely AMAZING what 4 8's could sound like in a sedan that had no pass through. I tried them in several iterations and I think I might actually still have the radiators themselves. I obviously graduated to a bit more conventional (and complicated) designs, but it was fun to learn. You should see what I'm cooking up right now...but that's for another thread.

Big Mack
Old 04-06-11, 01:28 AM
  #30  
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mkorsu and big mack, funny thing is that this place is the one with great reviews online compared to the other audio shop around here that had terrible reviews.

mkorsu any recommendations for a shop in NJ to get the stock sub removed. I have family in piscataway about 1.25-1.5 hours away from me to give you an idea. Cuz i dont want my leather seats butchered.

Thanks for all the info guys, wish i found out sooner esp since i could have removed that middle wooden panel myself with no damage at all


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