2006 IS350 (nonMl, nonNav) complete audio system upgrade, with pictures
03-20-11, 11:44 PM
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2006 IS350 (nonMl, nonNav) complete audio system upgrade, with pictures
I love my car, as all of us do, and I’ll admit that even the non-Ml system that Lexus puts in these cars isn’t horrible, but I’ve always been an audiophile, so the stock system just didn’t cut it. I decided that Uncle Sam (via tax return) would help me fix this situation!
First, I'll break down the equipment:
Speakers: Massive Audio CK6 Stage III components
Amplifier: Massive Audio Nx5
Subwoofer: Image Dynamics IDQ12 V.3
Processor: Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2
Hands Free: Parrot Mki9200
Research and purchasing decisions regarding equipment choices:
First, the 3sixty.2 processor.
I chose the 3sixty.2 for several reasons. I won’t go into detail on the disadvantages of this processor, but the only one that holds any credibility in my eyes is the noise floor issue. It’s well documented that this processor has an abnormally high introduction of noise. I chose this processor anyways, because after all I read, it seemed like if you chose a high quality amplifier, and set the amp/processor gains correctly, the noise was manageable. After installing and testing, I can agree with this assessment. Yes, the noise exists. As soon as you introduce ANY other sound source (music, engine noise, road noise, etc), you can no longer hear the noise. This holds true even at low volume. The other reason I chose this processor was the balance of price to features. It was a very good “middle man” in my opinion. I couldn’t afford the Audison, JBL, or Zapco processors, and ultimately chose the 3sixty over the Cleansweep. The price was right, and the features are plentiful. After playing with the Bluetooth connected GUI via laptop (don’t even bother with a palm unless you have to, it won’t do the software justice), I was totally addicted. Easy to use, and does almost everything I would ever need it to do, and in REAL TIME. I like this because you can immediately hear the effects of changes made to crossover points, output levels, and equalizer adjustments.
Second, the IDQ subwoofer.
This decision doesn’t require much explanation. Simply do a Google search on great SQ subs, and the IDQ will be discussed within most of the search results. Narrow down by the fact that I wanted a subwoofer that works well in a small enclosure, and viola, the decision was pretty much made for me.
Third, the CK6 speakers.
This was another “bang for the buck” item, fueled by a lot of late “buzz” on the DIYMA forums. I would have liked to choose a speaker set based on actual listening, but Denver, believe it or not, isn’t great when it comes to finding a store that carries many of the brands that I was interested in (ID, CDT, Hybrid Audio, DLS, and Massive). I got these speakers and the amp from a guy on DIYMA that bought them but never installed them, so they were BNIB, and I got them at a great deal, so that helped some of my decisions.
Fourth, the Nx5 amplifier.
I know it is extremely narrow-minded to immediately narrow down my power options to a 5-channel amplifier, but I did it anyways. I wanted a single amplifier that could effectively power my system, which would keep wiring and design as simple as possible. However, I wanted at least 100Wx4 plus at least 400Wx1 of CLEAN power, @ < $400, which immediately narrowed down my options. This amp didn’t even originally fit under my cost requirement, but as stated above, I fell into a great deal, so I was lucky. The only other options that I considered were the Cadence ZRS-C8 and the JL XD700x5, but ultimately chose the Nx5 based on other user reviews.
Finally, the Parrot Mki9200.
I didn’t so much “choose” this system as it “chose” me. Ultimate Electronics is a semi-major electronics store here in the mid-west that is currently going out of business, so I decided to check out the deals they may or may not have. I had done some research on an “all-in-one” solution that combined Bluetooth hands free calling, A2DP streaming, and other inputs. Options included the Parrot Mki9200, the Dice MediaBridge, and the Isimple gateway. All options fell into a price range of between $300 and $400, all inclusive. I liked the LCD screen that came with the Parrot system, so I was leaning in that direction anyways, but then UE comes into the situation and decides to mark the Mki9200 down to $120! I didn’t even hesitate. We’ll see how this pans out. I’ll write up a separate review of this system to include audio analysis of all inputs once I have it installed and have some time.
First, I'll break down the equipment:
Speakers: Massive Audio CK6 Stage III components
Amplifier: Massive Audio Nx5
Subwoofer: Image Dynamics IDQ12 V.3
Processor: Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2
Hands Free: Parrot Mki9200
Research and purchasing decisions regarding equipment choices:
First, the 3sixty.2 processor.
I chose the 3sixty.2 for several reasons. I won’t go into detail on the disadvantages of this processor, but the only one that holds any credibility in my eyes is the noise floor issue. It’s well documented that this processor has an abnormally high introduction of noise. I chose this processor anyways, because after all I read, it seemed like if you chose a high quality amplifier, and set the amp/processor gains correctly, the noise was manageable. After installing and testing, I can agree with this assessment. Yes, the noise exists. As soon as you introduce ANY other sound source (music, engine noise, road noise, etc), you can no longer hear the noise. This holds true even at low volume. The other reason I chose this processor was the balance of price to features. It was a very good “middle man” in my opinion. I couldn’t afford the Audison, JBL, or Zapco processors, and ultimately chose the 3sixty over the Cleansweep. The price was right, and the features are plentiful. After playing with the Bluetooth connected GUI via laptop (don’t even bother with a palm unless you have to, it won’t do the software justice), I was totally addicted. Easy to use, and does almost everything I would ever need it to do, and in REAL TIME. I like this because you can immediately hear the effects of changes made to crossover points, output levels, and equalizer adjustments.
Second, the IDQ subwoofer.
This decision doesn’t require much explanation. Simply do a Google search on great SQ subs, and the IDQ will be discussed within most of the search results. Narrow down by the fact that I wanted a subwoofer that works well in a small enclosure, and viola, the decision was pretty much made for me.
Third, the CK6 speakers.
This was another “bang for the buck” item, fueled by a lot of late “buzz” on the DIYMA forums. I would have liked to choose a speaker set based on actual listening, but Denver, believe it or not, isn’t great when it comes to finding a store that carries many of the brands that I was interested in (ID, CDT, Hybrid Audio, DLS, and Massive). I got these speakers and the amp from a guy on DIYMA that bought them but never installed them, so they were BNIB, and I got them at a great deal, so that helped some of my decisions.
Fourth, the Nx5 amplifier.
I know it is extremely narrow-minded to immediately narrow down my power options to a 5-channel amplifier, but I did it anyways. I wanted a single amplifier that could effectively power my system, which would keep wiring and design as simple as possible. However, I wanted at least 100Wx4 plus at least 400Wx1 of CLEAN power, @ < $400, which immediately narrowed down my options. This amp didn’t even originally fit under my cost requirement, but as stated above, I fell into a great deal, so I was lucky. The only other options that I considered were the Cadence ZRS-C8 and the JL XD700x5, but ultimately chose the Nx5 based on other user reviews.
Finally, the Parrot Mki9200.
I didn’t so much “choose” this system as it “chose” me. Ultimate Electronics is a semi-major electronics store here in the mid-west that is currently going out of business, so I decided to check out the deals they may or may not have. I had done some research on an “all-in-one” solution that combined Bluetooth hands free calling, A2DP streaming, and other inputs. Options included the Parrot Mki9200, the Dice MediaBridge, and the Isimple gateway. All options fell into a price range of between $300 and $400, all inclusive. I liked the LCD screen that came with the Parrot system, so I was leaning in that direction anyways, but then UE comes into the situation and decides to mark the Mki9200 down to $120! I didn’t even hesitate. We’ll see how this pans out. I’ll write up a separate review of this system to include audio analysis of all inputs once I have it installed and have some time.
03-20-11, 11:45 PM
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Stage 1: Building the subwoofer box
I picked the ID sub because it gets great reviews for being a SQ sub, but I also picked it because it’s designed to be optimal in a small, sealed enclosure. My Huge boom box days are over, and I like having the use of my trunk! I had this in mind when building the box. It measures the exact width and height of the back wall, but is only 7” in depth. This allows most of the trunk to remain useable. I built a constrained layer dampening (CLD) technique on the front baffle. I did some research on this, and the measureable advantages are debatable at these frequency ranges, but I had the materials and figured it would be fun to try. The constrained layer is comprised of 2 layers of 30# roofing felt. This is glued and squeezed between the two 3/4" MDF pieces.
I picked the ID sub because it gets great reviews for being a SQ sub, but I also picked it because it’s designed to be optimal in a small, sealed enclosure. My Huge boom box days are over, and I like having the use of my trunk! I had this in mind when building the box. It measures the exact width and height of the back wall, but is only 7” in depth. This allows most of the trunk to remain useable. I built a constrained layer dampening (CLD) technique on the front baffle. I did some research on this, and the measureable advantages are debatable at these frequency ranges, but I had the materials and figured it would be fun to try. The constrained layer is comprised of 2 layers of 30# roofing felt. This is glued and squeezed between the two 3/4" MDF pieces.
03-20-11, 11:45 PM
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Stage 2: Building the speaker adapters
I’m too cheap to buy the adapters that are on ebay and other various websites, and I think MDF adapters are sturdier anyways. The woofer adapters are made from two layers of MDF. Layer 1 is 1/2" thick and was patterned from the stock assembly. Layer 2 is 3/4" thick and is simply a spacer. For the tweeter, I cut a 1”x7.5” piece of 1/4" thick hardwood. I used the angle mount provided with the tweeters to mount to the hardwood. The angle was almost the exact same as the stock midrange speaker.
I’m too cheap to buy the adapters that are on ebay and other various websites, and I think MDF adapters are sturdier anyways. The woofer adapters are made from two layers of MDF. Layer 1 is 1/2" thick and was patterned from the stock assembly. Layer 2 is 3/4" thick and is simply a spacer. For the tweeter, I cut a 1”x7.5” piece of 1/4" thick hardwood. I used the angle mount provided with the tweeters to mount to the hardwood. The angle was almost the exact same as the stock midrange speaker.
03-20-11, 11:47 PM
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Stage 3: Dampening the doors and installing the speakers
Thanks to my local Ultimate Electronics store going out of business, I got a full Stinger Roadkill door kit for a whopping $35. But wait, before you get all jealous, I realized during installation that I was shorted a piece! The kit was supposed to contain 6 12”x24” pieces, but only came with 5. BOOO! I had to run to Best Buy mid-install and buy some dynamat extreme. 2 x BOOO.
The door panel is easy to get off, and I’m not sure why I’ve read horror stories about this. One screw behind an easily removable plastic piece behind the door latch, and another screw underneath the control assembly. The control assembly is easily removable with some light prying. After the two screws are removed, simply (but carefully) pop the pegs holding the panel to the door, then gently pull upward to remove the panel from the window seal. It takes about 2 minutes. From there, I just removed the clear plastic seals from the door, and carefully installed the dampening material.
Now for the more invasive part. I had to cut some of the “hard felt” from the inside lining of the door panel around the woofer area, and sorry all, I forgot to take a picture of this, so I’ll explain a bit more. There’s some “hard felt” molding around the backside of the door panel all around the woofer cutout. I had to cut most of it out along the bottom of the woofer cutout to allow room for the adapters I built.
That last picture was taken to display the new tweeter vs the stock speaker bracket. The angle mounts provided with the CK6 tweeters mounted them at almost the same angle as the stock speaker bracket.
Thanks to my local Ultimate Electronics store going out of business, I got a full Stinger Roadkill door kit for a whopping $35. But wait, before you get all jealous, I realized during installation that I was shorted a piece! The kit was supposed to contain 6 12”x24” pieces, but only came with 5. BOOO! I had to run to Best Buy mid-install and buy some dynamat extreme. 2 x BOOO.
The door panel is easy to get off, and I’m not sure why I’ve read horror stories about this. One screw behind an easily removable plastic piece behind the door latch, and another screw underneath the control assembly. The control assembly is easily removable with some light prying. After the two screws are removed, simply (but carefully) pop the pegs holding the panel to the door, then gently pull upward to remove the panel from the window seal. It takes about 2 minutes. From there, I just removed the clear plastic seals from the door, and carefully installed the dampening material.
Now for the more invasive part. I had to cut some of the “hard felt” from the inside lining of the door panel around the woofer area, and sorry all, I forgot to take a picture of this, so I’ll explain a bit more. There’s some “hard felt” molding around the backside of the door panel all around the woofer cutout. I had to cut most of it out along the bottom of the woofer cutout to allow room for the adapters I built.
That last picture was taken to display the new tweeter vs the stock speaker bracket. The angle mounts provided with the CK6 tweeters mounted them at almost the same angle as the stock speaker bracket.
03-20-11, 11:48 PM
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Stage 4: Wiring the amplifier, subwoofer, and processor
I’ve included a picture of the amplifier power wire install near the battery, but I simply followed the procedure here:
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-s...-pictures.html
I used (and highly recommend) terminal blocks to wire the interface between the stock amplifier and the 3sixty.2 processor. They make wiring easier in my opinion, and make fixing mistakes much easier than having to cut a crimp. When dealing with factory wiring, all the connections are VERY tight, and you definitely don’t want to cut more than once.
The first two pictures are of the subwoofer wire I braided out of 18-gauge wire. Best Buy didn’t have any speaker wire in stock that was worth a crap, but I had a roll of decent 18-gauge speaker wire sitting around, so I got creative. A total of 12 strands were used, 6 + and 6 -. I twisted three pairs together, then braided them. I did this twice, then taped them together.
Also, let me caveat the last picture with this fact: I’m a moron.
For some reason, I decided it was a good idea to mount the electronics to the subwoofer box. This is a bad idea, and I knew it. “I built the box really solid, it’ll be ok,” I told myself. Well I was wrong. The box IS solid, but it still vibrates a bit (more than I’m comfortable with), so I’ll be adjusting soon. I plan to simply turn the electronics around and mount to the trunk’s back wall so I don’t have to re-wire anything.
I’ve included a picture of the amplifier power wire install near the battery, but I simply followed the procedure here:
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-s...-pictures.html
I used (and highly recommend) terminal blocks to wire the interface between the stock amplifier and the 3sixty.2 processor. They make wiring easier in my opinion, and make fixing mistakes much easier than having to cut a crimp. When dealing with factory wiring, all the connections are VERY tight, and you definitely don’t want to cut more than once.
The first two pictures are of the subwoofer wire I braided out of 18-gauge wire. Best Buy didn’t have any speaker wire in stock that was worth a crap, but I had a roll of decent 18-gauge speaker wire sitting around, so I got creative. A total of 12 strands were used, 6 + and 6 -. I twisted three pairs together, then braided them. I did this twice, then taped them together.
Also, let me caveat the last picture with this fact: I’m a moron.
For some reason, I decided it was a good idea to mount the electronics to the subwoofer box. This is a bad idea, and I knew it. “I built the box really solid, it’ll be ok,” I told myself. Well I was wrong. The box IS solid, but it still vibrates a bit (more than I’m comfortable with), so I’ll be adjusting soon. I plan to simply turn the electronics around and mount to the trunk’s back wall so I don’t have to re-wire anything.
03-20-11, 11:49 PM
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Stage 5: Installation of the Parrot hands free kit
I haven’t yet done this, but will post pictures when I do.
There is a problem with this system interfacing with the 2IS models. The parrot system is intended to be installed as an “interrupt” in line with the source deck on its way to the speakers. Well, those of you that know how our system works, know that this presents a problem. The speaker level outputs on our systems are not full signal. They have already been crossed over. I went through many different wiring scenarios in my head, and there were several possibilities involving LOCs, external signal summing, etc, but I decided to simply use the AUX input on the 3sixty.2. This poses several advantages with only one disadvantage.
The disadvantage is that, if you receive a phone call while your system is not tuned to the 3sixty’s AUX port, you have to switch the source before answering the call. This basically means you have to press TWO buttons instead of ONE when receiving a call. I can live with that.
The advantages are several. First, no offense to Parrot, but it’s just one less device in between audio sources and the processor to degrade the signal. The less you “mess” with the audio signal, the better, in general.
Second, it makes installation much easier. One simple RCA interconnect between the parrot interface and the 3sixty.2’s AUX input and you’re finished, other than the always-necessary internal wiring of the parrot system itself. No splicing of factory wiring needed.
Third, there are many on these forums that talk about the non-defeatable 35Hz subsonic filter built into our systems. There’s not much that plays lower than that, especially in my music library (I don’t listen to much rap), but it exists, nonetheless. Well, wiring the parrot system in this manner completely bypasses our front deck and stock amplifier, thereby “defeating” the non-defeatable subsonic filter. Of course, this only applies to those sources that play through the parrot system, but thankfully, this includes most of what I’ll be listening to. SD cards, USB drives, and iPhone Bluetooth A2DP streaming will all bypass the stock system. Yay!
I haven’t yet done this, but will post pictures when I do.
There is a problem with this system interfacing with the 2IS models. The parrot system is intended to be installed as an “interrupt” in line with the source deck on its way to the speakers. Well, those of you that know how our system works, know that this presents a problem. The speaker level outputs on our systems are not full signal. They have already been crossed over. I went through many different wiring scenarios in my head, and there were several possibilities involving LOCs, external signal summing, etc, but I decided to simply use the AUX input on the 3sixty.2. This poses several advantages with only one disadvantage.
The disadvantage is that, if you receive a phone call while your system is not tuned to the 3sixty’s AUX port, you have to switch the source before answering the call. This basically means you have to press TWO buttons instead of ONE when receiving a call. I can live with that.
The advantages are several. First, no offense to Parrot, but it’s just one less device in between audio sources and the processor to degrade the signal. The less you “mess” with the audio signal, the better, in general.
Second, it makes installation much easier. One simple RCA interconnect between the parrot interface and the 3sixty.2’s AUX input and you’re finished, other than the always-necessary internal wiring of the parrot system itself. No splicing of factory wiring needed.
Third, there are many on these forums that talk about the non-defeatable 35Hz subsonic filter built into our systems. There’s not much that plays lower than that, especially in my music library (I don’t listen to much rap), but it exists, nonetheless. Well, wiring the parrot system in this manner completely bypasses our front deck and stock amplifier, thereby “defeating” the non-defeatable subsonic filter. Of course, this only applies to those sources that play through the parrot system, but thankfully, this includes most of what I’ll be listening to. SD cards, USB drives, and iPhone Bluetooth A2DP streaming will all bypass the stock system. Yay!
03-20-11, 11:55 PM
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I'm not done tuning yet, but I want to let the system break in a bit before I do any more fine tweaking. First impressions:
Processor: Awesome interface, and easy setup. I had no issues with initial setup. No surprises with the 3sixty. I didn't find anything about the processor (good or bad) that hasn't already been heavily documented.
Subwoofer: I don't think I can accurately judge the sub yet. I noticed that a small bit of air is actually leaking out of the CLD baffle, so I need to seal that up. Even with that though, the bass was tight and punchy, just like I wanted.
Speakers: Imaging was MUCH better than the factory install (I should hope so). I guess this could also be credited partially to the 3sixty's ability to signal delay. I did not find the tweeter to be harsh at all (like some people comment) after attenuating their signal -3dB via 3sixty. After playing with the xover point, I landed comfortably at 3.25MHz. I couldn't find any sources that could tell me what the passive xover from massive is set at, but 3.25 Meg sounded best to me. As others have reviewed, the low end out of these CK6 woofers is very impressive, even without break-in time.
Processor: Awesome interface, and easy setup. I had no issues with initial setup. No surprises with the 3sixty. I didn't find anything about the processor (good or bad) that hasn't already been heavily documented.
Subwoofer: I don't think I can accurately judge the sub yet. I noticed that a small bit of air is actually leaking out of the CLD baffle, so I need to seal that up. Even with that though, the bass was tight and punchy, just like I wanted.
Speakers: Imaging was MUCH better than the factory install (I should hope so). I guess this could also be credited partially to the 3sixty's ability to signal delay. I did not find the tweeter to be harsh at all (like some people comment) after attenuating their signal -3dB via 3sixty. After playing with the xover point, I landed comfortably at 3.25MHz. I couldn't find any sources that could tell me what the passive xover from massive is set at, but 3.25 Meg sounded best to me. As others have reviewed, the low end out of these CK6 woofers is very impressive, even without break-in time.
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03-21-11, 12:53 PM
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So would I!
The only "after" pictures I can provide right now are pictures of the re-assembled door, which looks dangerously similar to what the door looked like before install
The worthwhile "after" pics will be of the parrot system (not installed yet), the re-installed electronics (not started), and the carpeted sub box. I have ideas to install "wings" on the front of the sub box as to create a false wall that will make the install look stealthy, but no concrete plans yet. I don't want to make the install too permanent until the system is broken in and fully tuned, so that gain settings / wiring is easier to get to.
The only "after" pictures I can provide right now are pictures of the re-assembled door, which looks dangerously similar to what the door looked like before install
The worthwhile "after" pics will be of the parrot system (not installed yet), the re-installed electronics (not started), and the carpeted sub box. I have ideas to install "wings" on the front of the sub box as to create a false wall that will make the install look stealthy, but no concrete plans yet. I don't want to make the install too permanent until the system is broken in and fully tuned, so that gain settings / wiring is easier to get to.
03-21-11, 11:52 PM
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Our ears only hear to 20K (generally speaking), so another order of magnitude is way out of our range.Looking forward to the finished pics as well.
Big Mack
03-22-11, 01:52 PM
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First off, nice write up, and congratulations on doing it the right way and taking your time. Only one thing really hit me reading the above - you're meaning kHz, not MHz. Our ears only hear to 20K (generally speaking), so another order of magnitude is way out of our range.
Looking forward to the finished pics as well.
Big Mack
Our ears only hear to 20K (generally speaking), so another order of magnitude is way out of our range.Looking forward to the finished pics as well.
Big Mack
Heh, I'm a moron
, my professors would scold me.
