howiedoit

iTrader: (9)

Mind if I ask how much power your amp puts out? Maybe I will get a new amp. There's nothing else wrong that I'm doing right? I mean, the install is pretty simple. The only thing that I could think of is getting a better amp. Where do you guys mount your amps??

moshlub

The Orion Cobalt amp is allegedly rated at 200W RMS when bridged. But knowing these amps, they pump out alot more than what they're rated. I'd say I'm pretty close to the 400W peak of the subwoofer.

Good sounding systems can be found where the amp RMS power output is close to the RMS power handling of the speakers. Believe it or not, MOST speakers blow because of underpower, not overpowering amps (however, keep in mind that overloading will kill speakers). When the amp cannot provide enough power to the speakers, the amp will clip its output. It's the clipping that fries speakers.

Is your 150W rating RMS or peak? If it's RMS, it should be okay. Just get a more powerful amp. If that 150W is peak, you should consider getting a new sub too.

Speaking of mounting the amp, I mounted mine underneath the stock CD-changer. I removed the stock sub amp and filled the void with a metal plate -- don't need the stock sub amp anymore. I relocated the "surround" speaker amp to just under the CD-changer and installed my amp in its location. This relocation required modification of the CD-changer mounting bracket.

lex400sc

I had a JL 500/1 running to my stock Pioneer free-air up until yesterday. It sounded so crappy (the sub). I couldn't handle the poor power handling and bottoming out. Seems the thing couldn't hit 40 audible hertz for it's life! So anyway, I just threw in the JL 12's again last night, which drops my rear end down about an 1-inch and makes my wheels look better . I was going to pull the trigger on a JL 10IB4 as a permanent fix, but I wanted to first explore 12-inch free air options. I believe with two 3/4" MDF baffles stacked on top of eachother, that will provide the neccessary clearance for a JL 12IB4. However, I want a Kicker 12 or Rockford 12 now, and want to build an amp rack below my rear dash for both my amps. I guess the project has been moving incredibly slow because of my money situation, but I think I can eventually make it all work. BTW, which do you guys like better Kicker, JL, or Rockford free-airs?

Phoenix88

Just got my sub in, sounds awesome, sort of like the stock sub but hits a lot harder. The amp was mounted just like... I can't remember the guys name on here, but he did his sisters sc w/ a phoenix gold and kicker... basically they did the exact same, i sent them a url... the only thing is, they did charge me a arm and a leg!! I am not very happy w/ that... over 4 hrs of labour and a bit for parts... I will talk to them tomorrow... see what happened? I know it did take that long, as for were they working on my car the whole time??? I dunno, I will see how much my buddies install is on his bimmer tomorrow. They didn't even order me the lpl44 remote for the amp... they better not charge me another hour to stick that in.

Phoenix88

For anyone that has actually done the installation themselves, sub + amp mount, how long do you think it would take a professional?

howiedoit

iTrader: (9)

This one is my amp. I believe it's 150W RMS. It says continuous power is 150W x1 (4ohms). Whatever it is, I'm not completely satisfied with how my sub sounds. I don't know if that's how it is supposed to sound. Honestly, I can't say that there is a HUGE difference after changing my sub. There is possibly a bit more bass, but not THAT much. Is my cheapest option to change the amp? I also want to retain my trunk space.

This is my sub. Pioneer TS-W254F

howiedoit

iTrader: (9)

I can't imagine a professional taking more than an hour...

where did they put your amp?

AutoCoutureSC

iTrader: (8)

i have the kicker free air and i love it... but something just happened recently...

the darn thing doesn't hit anymore! maybe it's a loose wire....

Phoenix88

Do luck how long did it take you to install?

Phoenix88

Amp is mounted like this (this pic isn't of my car)

moshlub

Depending on what type and brand of amp you have, that power should be enough to drive that sub. That rating 150W x1 sounds like it is the bridged rating. And depending on if you have your amp bridged to your sub or not, your power will differ.

From where do you have your subwoofer sourced? I.e., where is the input to the amp coming from? Do you have it connected to the subwoofer lead?

You should use some sort of crossover to filter out the highs. If you use a full-range source (versus just the lows), your subwoofer will sound sh|++y.

Deceptik1

iTrader: (6)

Hey Phoenix88 what happened to your aw11? Did you have anything done to the motor? Just curious I have a 88 Corolla with a spare 4ag that I'm building for turbo.

2Lexos

sorry pimp, but i use to do so many installs a day i hardly took pics of any of my work. i'll have to dig deep to find some pic of any installs. i'll post if i find something.

howiedoit

iTrader: (9)

I have my amp briged. The signal going into the amp is the same signal that was going to the stock sub amplifier. and then the output from the amp goes to my sub. I think everything is probably working correctly. Maybe my standards are just too high...thanks for the help!!!

Phoenix88

The SC MR2 was my first car when I was 17, it is too bad I was one of those guys that thought I was invincible and drove that car way to fast. I was doing about 120km (70mph) in the city and was going through a bend, and if you have driven a mr2 they like to let their back end go and go out of control, but good thing is that I was 100% ok except for a sprain thumb and seatbelt burn on my neck... shin hack on my left shin. It was also good thing that I was fully insured, got my money back for the car (only owned for about a month) and they paid for all the property damage. What a lesson it taught me. Very fortunate no one else was in the accident other than a passanger which was also fine... it was just before supper.