Kicker Free Air Vs Stock Nak Sub
#16
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Originally posted by moshlub
Free-air subs can never sound as good or hit as hard as sealed or ported speakers due to their infinite baffle nature. However, one thing that you can to make the sound better with free-air subs is give that thing more power.
My Pioneer sub is rated at 200W RMS and 400W peak, but I'm driving it with an Orion Cobalt 2100 bridged. Some people think I have at least 12-inchers in the back until they pop my trunk. They find one measely 10" free-air POS sub.
Free-air subs can never sound as good or hit as hard as sealed or ported speakers due to their infinite baffle nature. However, one thing that you can to make the sound better with free-air subs is give that thing more power.
My Pioneer sub is rated at 200W RMS and 400W peak, but I'm driving it with an Orion Cobalt 2100 bridged. Some people think I have at least 12-inchers in the back until they pop my trunk. They find one measely 10" free-air POS sub.
#17
Intermediate
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The Orion Cobalt amp is allegedly rated at 200W RMS when bridged. But knowing these amps, they pump out alot more than what they're rated. I'd say I'm pretty close to the 400W peak of the subwoofer.
Good sounding systems can be found where the amp RMS power output is close to the RMS power handling of the speakers. Believe it or not, MOST speakers blow because of underpower, not overpowering amps (however, keep in mind that overloading will kill speakers). When the amp cannot provide enough power to the speakers, the amp will clip its output. It's the clipping that fries speakers.
Is your 150W rating RMS or peak? If it's RMS, it should be okay. Just get a more powerful amp. If that 150W is peak, you should consider getting a new sub too.
Speaking of mounting the amp, I mounted mine underneath the stock CD-changer. I removed the stock sub amp and filled the void with a metal plate -- don't need the stock sub amp anymore. I relocated the "surround" speaker amp to just under the CD-changer and installed my amp in its location. This relocation required modification of the CD-changer mounting bracket.
Good sounding systems can be found where the amp RMS power output is close to the RMS power handling of the speakers. Believe it or not, MOST speakers blow because of underpower, not overpowering amps (however, keep in mind that overloading will kill speakers). When the amp cannot provide enough power to the speakers, the amp will clip its output. It's the clipping that fries speakers.
Is your 150W rating RMS or peak? If it's RMS, it should be okay. Just get a more powerful amp. If that 150W is peak, you should consider getting a new sub too.
Speaking of mounting the amp, I mounted mine underneath the stock CD-changer. I removed the stock sub amp and filled the void with a metal plate -- don't need the stock sub amp anymore. I relocated the "surround" speaker amp to just under the CD-changer and installed my amp in its location. This relocation required modification of the CD-changer mounting bracket.
#18
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I had a JL 500/1 running to my stock Pioneer free-air up until yesterday. It sounded so crappy (the sub). I couldn't handle the poor power handling and bottoming out. Seems the thing couldn't hit 40 audible hertz for it's life! So anyway, I just threw in the JL 12's again last night, which drops my rear end down about an 1-inch and makes my wheels look better
. I was going to pull the trigger on a JL 10IB4 as a permanent fix, but I wanted to first explore 12-inch free air options. I believe with two 3/4" MDF baffles stacked on top of eachother, that will provide the neccessary clearance for a JL 12IB4. However, I want a Kicker 12 or Rockford 12 now, and want to build an amp rack below my rear dash for both my amps. I guess the project has been moving incredibly slow because of my money situation, but I think I can eventually make it all work. BTW, which do you guys like better Kicker, JL, or Rockford free-airs?
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#19
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Just got my sub in, sounds awesome, sort of like the stock sub but hits a lot harder. The amp was mounted just like... I can't remember the guys name on here, but he did his sisters sc w/ a phoenix gold and kicker... basically they did the exact same, i sent them a url... the only thing is, they did charge me a arm and a leg!! I am not very happy w/ that... over 4 hrs of labour and a bit for parts... I will talk to them tomorrow... see what happened? I know it did take that long, as for were they working on my car the whole time??? I dunno, I will see how much my buddies install is on his bimmer tomorrow. They didn't even order me the lpl44 remote for the amp... they better not charge me another hour to stick that in.
#21
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This one is my amp. I believe it's 150W RMS. It says continuous power is 150W x1 (4ohms). Whatever it is, I'm not completely satisfied with how my sub sounds. I don't know if that's how it is supposed to sound. Honestly, I can't say that there is a HUGE difference after changing my sub. There is possibly a bit more bass, but not THAT much. Is my cheapest option to change the amp? I also want to retain my trunk space.
This is my sub. Pioneer TS-W254F
This is my sub. Pioneer TS-W254F
#26
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Originally posted by howiedoit
This one is my amp. I believe it's 150W RMS. It says continuous power is 150W x1 (4ohms). ....
This is my sub. Pioneer TS-W254F
This one is my amp. I believe it's 150W RMS. It says continuous power is 150W x1 (4ohms). ....
This is my sub. Pioneer TS-W254F
From where do you have your subwoofer sourced? I.e., where is the input to the amp coming from? Do you have it connected to the subwoofer lead?
You should use some sort of crossover to filter out the highs. If you use a full-range source (versus just the lows), your subwoofer will sound sh|++y.
Last edited by moshlub; 08-28-02 at 02:34 AM.
#28
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Originally posted by ScrewFace
2Lexos, do you have any pictures of the setup you did in the GS300?
2Lexos, do you have any pictures of the setup you did in the GS300?
#29
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Originally posted by moshlub
From where do you have your subwoofer sourced? I.e., where is the input to the amp coming from? Do you have it connected to the subwoofer lead?
From where do you have your subwoofer sourced? I.e., where is the input to the amp coming from? Do you have it connected to the subwoofer lead?
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#30
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Originally posted by Deceptik1
Hey Phoenix88 what happened to your aw11? Did you have anything done to the motor? Just curious I have a 88 Corolla with a spare 4ag that I'm building for turbo.
Hey Phoenix88 what happened to your aw11? Did you have anything done to the motor? Just curious I have a 88 Corolla with a spare 4ag that I'm building for turbo.
Last edited by Phoenix88; 08-28-02 at 05:49 AM.