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Kicker Free Air Vs Stock Nak Sub

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Old 08-28-02, 06:44 PM
  #31  
DuB
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Originally posted by moshlub

Free-air subs can never sound as good or hit as hard as sealed or ported speakers due to their infinite baffle nature. However, one thing that you can to make the sound better with free-air subs is give that thing more power.

My Pioneer sub is rated at 200W RMS and 400W peak, but I'm driving it with an Orion Cobalt 2100 bridged. Some people think I have at least 12-inchers in the back until they pop my trunk. They find one measely 10" free-air POS sub.
I think free-air subs sound great. It just depends on the install. If they're installed the way they were supposed to be, they can sound VERY good. The suspension on them is relatively stiff to compensate for the lack of an enclosure. I think it's true that they don't get as loud though. However, all the free-air setups I've heard were SQ oriented, so they weren't meant to be played loud.

I'm glad the pictures helped! The amp I used on my sister's car puts our around 520w RMS so that might be why it sounds so good Phoenix88, that install took me FOREVER because of all the guessing and checking. There was a lot of fabricating, test fitting, trimming, test fitting, rethinking, refabing, etc. Eventually, I just climbed into the trunk and did all the testing, fitting, trimming, and rethinking from in there

I'm not sure how long it would take a professional though. 4 hours sounds about right. It took me a lot longer though because I was working by myself, I'm somewhat of a perfectionist, and, most importantly, I'm not a professional.
Old 08-28-02, 10:00 PM
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Ebanks
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Who all makes a free air sub that will fit the stock location?

-Ethan
Old 08-29-02, 03:25 AM
  #33  
Phoenix88
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Originally posted by Ebanks
Who all makes a free air sub that will fit the stock location?

-Ethan
Ethan after my install I found this thread, had lots of great info on it, I think it was from a GS guy. There are a few choices, pioneer, kicker, jl.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...icker+free+air
Old 08-29-02, 03:29 AM
  #34  
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Originally posted by DuB


I think free-air subs sound great. It just depends on the install. If they're installed the way they were supposed to be, they can sound VERY good. The suspension on them is relatively stiff to compensate for the lack of an enclosure. I think it's true that they don't get as loud though. However, all the free-air setups I've heard were SQ oriented, so they weren't meant to be played loud.

I'm glad the pictures helped! The amp I used on my sister's car puts our around 520w RMS so that might be why it sounds so good Phoenix88, that install took me FOREVER because of all the guessing and checking. There was a lot of fabricating, test fitting, trimming, test fitting, rethinking, refabing, etc. Eventually, I just climbed into the trunk and did all the testing, fitting, trimming, and rethinking from in there

I'm not sure how long it would take a professional though. 4 hours sounds about right. It took me a lot longer though because I was working by myself, I'm somewhat of a perfectionist, and, most importantly, I'm not a professional.
Thanks DuB, those pics did help a LOT, basically I have your sisters setup in my car now! They mounted the amp somewhat like yours and ah I dunno. But I wanted to ask you something about the wire splicing, did you take the signal from the old sub wires or the front channel. It seems that when I fade the speakers to the rear that the sub disappears... something that it didn't before. I am thinking that they split from the fronts. It might be better to get the signal from the sub channel? Maybe I don't know what I am talking about. Oh anothing thing, did you find a lot of rattling coming from somewhere? I can't seem to find out where its from.
Old 08-30-02, 12:56 AM
  #35  
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No prob. I'm glad that the pics helped cuz I couldn't have done the install w/o the info I got from you guys here.

I think I got the signal from the sub input. That way it'll sound the way Lexus wanted it to sound, but a little louder. There wasn't any rattling that I noticed. Check the sub bracket or the panels that pop out, or maybe the sub grill. I used 1/4" minimal compression weatherstripping to make sure there wasn't any wood to metal contact. Also check underneath the rear deck. maybe some of the wires are rattling against a panel or something since they're all so close together. I zip tied all of them together so they wouldn't move too much. Oh, another one might be the amp rack itself rattling against the underside of the rear deck. hope that helps!

Last edited by DuB; 08-30-02 at 12:56 AM.
Old 08-30-02, 04:35 AM
  #36  
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The rattling could also be coming from the third brake light in your spoiler, if you have one.
Old 09-01-02, 05:52 AM
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I just redid my system. Took about 4 hours. Basically had no idea how the wiring was... It took me about 30 minutes just to figure out which harness goes to where... I had a printout but was still lost.... Pro's usually shouldn't take more than 2 hours.
Old 09-04-03, 06:26 PM
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how did you guys run the wire from the amp to the battery? did u drill a hole in your firewall or is there a path???
Old 09-04-03, 08:10 PM
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There is a rubber grommet which goes through the firewall above the fusebox. There are a couple of rubber nipples which can be snipped off and wire routed through. I routed 8 gauge through there pretty easily. The trick is that in the engine compartment, there is another compartment which the wire must be routed through. This is on the passenger side fender well right next to the firewall. Just stuff the wire through the firewall and be looking in the compartment for the wire and then fish it through from the engine compartment.

I think I could have routed 4 gauge, but it would have been much more difficult. The wire can then be routed under the carpet, under the rear seat and through another rubber grommet into the trunk. No drilling!

Tom
Old 09-04-03, 10:43 PM
  #40  
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Default Another idea

Here's another idea for you guys to consider. Get a "BassCube" from Phoenix Gold. This is a really slick little processor that lets you tune your sub. They don't say how it works exactly, but listening to it, I believe it's a variable band pass filter. What it does is limit the frequency range the sub puts out so that you're not wasting power trying to output frequencies beyond the subs abilities. The BIG advantage to this is that you can give the sub a LOT more power without having to worry about blowing it (it will get very loud where you want it to). That's not to say that you still couldn't blow it if you got crazy, but you can get a lot crazier safely

You can find 'em on eBay from time to time for $60-$80. I think it's the biggest bang for the buck you can get for a sub. Oh, and don't confuse it with the Audio Control "Epicenter" bass processor. Totally different animal, and would cook a free air sub in no time at all.
Old 09-05-03, 02:01 PM
  #41  
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Originally posted by 2Lexos
yeah....but the only way to find out what you did wrong is to take it to a pro

at 10" sub w/amp should be rockin' your car.....i did DirectQL's car with same step up only it was rockford equipment. now he has more bass than he know what to do with....
Yeah, but that Rockford sub sucked. It wasn't free air! I got the Pioneer free air sub now and it rocks. Actually Alex, I did some more tuning and it should be even better than last time you listened to it.

Chris
Old 09-07-03, 02:27 PM
  #42  
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thanks tom for the instructions!
Old 09-07-03, 02:58 PM
  #43  
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Originally posted by moshlub
Free-air subs can never sound as good or hit as hard as sealed or ported speakers due to their infinite baffle nature. However, one thing that you can to make the sound better with free-air subs is give that thing more power.
Actually, you are wrong here. I run my subs IB and I compete IASCA. I always get 18-20 score on my subbass...but what do those judges know?
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