Audio system expert please advise me
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I have a tma total mobile audio i was told it was jlaudio's affordable line of amps? I got the 500.1 amp running w3 v3 when i play bass long it shuts off is that normal for all amps too shut off then turns on maybe 10 minutes later? How or is there a amp that can last with continous bass traveling from frisco to los angeles i hate it when a good song comes on and it shuts down on me. Do i need a capacitor? Or buying a more wattage amp will that last long? Also is it true w6 is better sound clearer cleaner bass then a w7? Everyone i know that owns a w7 either their windows crack or they dont even have the *** all the way as it has soo much power? Any advise will be kool thanks.
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Your amp is going into its factory "protection mode" by shutting itself down until it reaches a cooler operating temp. It could be two things : 1) the shop wired it incorrectly 2) insufficient cooling to the amp itself. Seeing that this happens after prolonged useage, I'm guessing simply #2. Just guessing, but this amp has no internal fan or heat sink designs/fins to dispurse heat does it?
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Your amp is going into its factory "protection mode" by shutting itself down until it reaches a cooler operating temp. It could be two things : 1) the shop wired it incorrectly 2) insufficient cooling to the amp itself. Seeing that this happens after prolonged useage, I'm guessing simply #2. Just guessing, but this amp has no internal fan or heat sink designs/fins to dispurse heat does it?
#6
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Whether you run the W6 or the W7, neither has anything to do with the problem you are having with the amp. I does sound like it's going into protect mode, and I would have your installer figure that out first. I should hope that you have a minimum of 4ga power and ground wires, and if they are properly connected, you should be fine there. The JL experts on here could say for sure, but I believe that the amp is stable down to 1.5 ohms. Impedence will fluctuate, and does so more drastically when playing lower frequencies. If your sub is wired in a configuration that makes it 1 or 2 ohms at the amp, you may be dipping below it's allowable minimum impedence.
Another issue could be how you have it tuned. If you are running your gain and bass boost at higher levels, this makes the amp have to work harder, and will make it get hotter.
Lastly, if you are seeing heavy dips in power (dimming lights and fluctuation in your voltage at the dash), the amp will become unstable when it is starved for power. The more an amp is run on lower voltage, the more it wants the power, and the more unstable it becomes. A downward spiral, if you will.
I have run Rockford Fosgate, Alpine, Sundown Audio, Infinity, Hertz, and Memphis amps in my cars. Some get hotter than others, but I can only remember a handful of times that I had an amp go into protect mode.
Another issue could be how you have it tuned. If you are running your gain and bass boost at higher levels, this makes the amp have to work harder, and will make it get hotter.
Lastly, if you are seeing heavy dips in power (dimming lights and fluctuation in your voltage at the dash), the amp will become unstable when it is starved for power. The more an amp is run on lower voltage, the more it wants the power, and the more unstable it becomes. A downward spiral, if you will.
I have run Rockford Fosgate, Alpine, Sundown Audio, Infinity, Hertz, and Memphis amps in my cars. Some get hotter than others, but I can only remember a handful of times that I had an amp go into protect mode.
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Damn I think i just blew my new w3v2 speakers has a distorted rattly bass not hittin as hard i was playing e40 new album tons of bass songs blew playing i love mah mama song
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Ok do i need a capacitor? Im going back to the shop i had it less then a month 1 year warranty i thought it was my panels rattling looked in trunk speaker had a rattly loose bass hits hard at times then rattles
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Kinda sux i got burnt twice i travel 35 minutes because i called the shop i bought it from said come down we will take care of you. I go down they smell my burnt coil then told me they had product in stock then when i get there another worker said they have no more in stock they looked at each other first then said that was that a planned routine? This is the second time this shop burned my coils in my speakers. There tunners suck in adjusting amps. They said u got 1 year warranty send back to jlaudio they will give u a new one. Then the owner said do you wanna buy a capacitor and install one today so when u get that new speaker we can install it again... I looked at my amp has cheesy installation i know better now to follow advise from clublexus members but i bought these speakers less then a month ago the screws were falling off my amp. I had to tighten them. Don't ever go to san leandro car audio depot they are the ones that post on craigslist to sell good cheap 4guage wire kit $25 i bought fosgate 4guage kit. Man this sucks . Whats correct system setup will a capacitor be good to use does it help lower the load on amp? Thanks folks for advise the guy at the shop had slow businness and tried to tax me i need a reliable honest good price shop that knows how to tune speakers and etc tired of lifes long lessons and gettin burnt he said may be i need a 1000watt amp to handle those speakers hes trying to get money outta me how and why u need a 1000 watt amp when a w3v3 2ohm is rated as a500 watt speaker?
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Plus i had to waste gas plus 5dollar toll fee
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Kinda sux i got burnt twice i travel 35 minutes because i called the shop i bought it from said come down we will take care of you. I go down they smell my burnt coil then told me they had product in stock then when i get there another worker said they have no more in stock they looked at each other first then said that was that a planned routine? This is the second time this shop burned my coils in my speakers. There tunners suck in adjusting amps. They said u got 1 year warranty send back to jlaudio they will give u a new one. Then the owner said do you wanna buy a capacitor and install one today so when u get that new speaker we can install it again... I looked at my amp has cheesy installation i know better now to follow advise from clublexus members but i bought these speakers less then a month ago the screws were falling off my amp. I had to tighten them. Don't ever go to
san leandro car audio depot they are the ones that post on craigslist to sell good cheap 4guage wire kit $25 i bought fosgate 4guage kit. Man this sucks .
Whats correct system setup will a capacitor be good to use does it help lower
the load on amp? Thanks folks for advise the guy at the shop had slow
businness and tried to tax me i need a reliable honest good price shop that
knows how to tune speakers and etc tired of lifes long lessons and gettin burnt he said may be i need a 1000watt amp to handle those speakers hes trying to get money outta me how and why u need a 1000 watt amp when a w3v3 2ohm is rated as a500 watt speaker?
san leandro car audio depot they are the ones that post on craigslist to sell good cheap 4guage wire kit $25 i bought fosgate 4guage kit. Man this sucks .
Whats correct system setup will a capacitor be good to use does it help lower
the load on amp? Thanks folks for advise the guy at the shop had slow
businness and tried to tax me i need a reliable honest good price shop that
knows how to tune speakers and etc tired of lifes long lessons and gettin burnt he said may be i need a 1000watt amp to handle those speakers hes trying to get money outta me how and why u need a 1000 watt amp when a w3v3 2ohm is rated as a500 watt speaker?
#13
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I am now VERY curious as to how your system is tuned. If the W3 is rated at 500w rms, the 500/1 should be more than adequate for it. What's more, I have run larger than 500w amps without using a capacitor. The way to determine whether you really need a cap or not, is to measure your voltage drop when the stereo is playing low, heavy notes. If your gain is set properly, and you are not using bass boost, then the amp should not have burnt the woofer's voice coil. There is the outside chance that you got a defective woofer, but it isn't likely from JL. I have pounded lesser subs and not burnt voice coils. I have smelled a few heating up, but that is normal when you play them hard. You just have to be smart about it.
While it is harder to hear from the trunk, you really have to develop an ear for the system, and know when you are hearing distortion and/or muddied bass.
The shop should have this set up for you, so that you couldn't have blown it. I am friends with a stereo shop owner, and he has told me before that he will sometimes intentionally "de-tune" a system if he is worried that the customer is going to try and bang it as loud as possible, with no regard for what it is doing to the sub or amp. Way too many people abuse the systems that they have, thinking that it isn't at it's full potential if it isn't making the roof rattle.
Can you tell me what your gain is set at, what the crossover (low pass filter) is set at, and whether you have a bass **** or setting on the amp? Is is a 500/1 V1 or V2? Assuming you are running the factory HU, what are your Low, Mid, and High set at on the HU?
Understand, it is really impossible to tune someone's stereo online, without being able to hear it, but knowing this info will make it a little easier to understand.
While it is harder to hear from the trunk, you really have to develop an ear for the system, and know when you are hearing distortion and/or muddied bass.
The shop should have this set up for you, so that you couldn't have blown it. I am friends with a stereo shop owner, and he has told me before that he will sometimes intentionally "de-tune" a system if he is worried that the customer is going to try and bang it as loud as possible, with no regard for what it is doing to the sub or amp. Way too many people abuse the systems that they have, thinking that it isn't at it's full potential if it isn't making the roof rattle.
Can you tell me what your gain is set at, what the crossover (low pass filter) is set at, and whether you have a bass **** or setting on the amp? Is is a 500/1 V1 or V2? Assuming you are running the factory HU, what are your Low, Mid, and High set at on the HU?
Understand, it is really impossible to tune someone's stereo online, without being able to hear it, but knowing this info will make it a little easier to understand.
#14
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When I am running a sub, I take all of the bass out of the output from the HU. I have my subwoofer output up to nearly the max (aftermarket HU, not factory), but I have the "Low" setting turned nearly all the way down. When running a sub, the sub and the box that it is in will give you the bass that you want. This affords you the ability to play only mids and highs through your door speakers, which is really what they are for. The sub stage will still play the bass that you want, but the music coming through the doors will be much, much cleaner.
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I am now VERY curious as to how your system is tuned. If the W3 is rated at 500w rms, the 500/1 should be more than adequate for it. What's more, I have run larger than 500w amps without using a capacitor. The way to determine whether you really need a cap or not, is to measure your voltage drop when the stereo is playing low, heavy notes. If your gain is set properly, and you are not using bass boost, then the amp should not have burnt the woofer's voice coil. There is the outside chance that you got a defective woofer, but it isn't likely from JL. I have pounded lesser subs and not burnt voice coils. I have smelled a few heating up, but that is normal when you play them hard. You just have to be smart about it.
While it is harder to hear from the trunk, you really have to develop an ear for the system, and know when you are hearing distortion and/or muddied bass.
The shop should have this set up for you, so that you couldn't have blown it. I am friends with a stereo shop owner, and he has told me before that he will sometimes intentionally "de-tune" a system if he is worried that the customer is going to try and bang it as loud as possible, with no regard for what it is doing to the sub or amp. Way too many people abuse the systems that they have, thinking that it isn't at it's full potential if it isn't making the roof rattle.
Can you tell me what your gain is set at, what the crossover (low pass filter) is set at, and whether you have a bass **** or setting on the amp? Is is a 500/1 V1 or V2? Assuming you are running the factory HU, what are your Low, Mid, and High set at on the HU?
Understand, it is really impossible to tune someone's stereo online, without being able to hear it, but knowing this info will make it a little easier to understand.
While it is harder to hear from the trunk, you really have to develop an ear for the system, and know when you are hearing distortion and/or muddied bass.
The shop should have this set up for you, so that you couldn't have blown it. I am friends with a stereo shop owner, and he has told me before that he will sometimes intentionally "de-tune" a system if he is worried that the customer is going to try and bang it as loud as possible, with no regard for what it is doing to the sub or amp. Way too many people abuse the systems that they have, thinking that it isn't at it's full potential if it isn't making the roof rattle.
Can you tell me what your gain is set at, what the crossover (low pass filter) is set at, and whether you have a bass **** or setting on the amp? Is is a 500/1 V1 or V2? Assuming you are running the factory HU, what are your Low, Mid, and High set at on the HU?
Understand, it is really impossible to tune someone's stereo online, without being able to hear it, but knowing this info will make it a little easier to understand.