I was wandering if anyone has had a problem with the EFI fuse blowing when the ignition key is turned to any positon but off. KOEO, I had to remove the intake to do the rear spark plugs and valve cover gasket, after I got it back together it started to spudder and then it stalled, I started it again and same thing, then a third time and it wouldnt start. I replaced the EFI fuse and it blowes every time, I removed the intake again to make sure I didnt pinch any wires, I smelled something burning and I think it was the PCM because it was in the car behind the glove box. Thanks for any help.

 

I have exactly the same issue. ANY ANSWERS?

 

Well what I found first a burned up computer, I only found that because the smell of burning electronics inside the car, than I discoverd that on the passenger side of the intake manifold there are 3 ground wires, one is hidden behind the intake where I couldn't see it and the other two are on the top passenger side corner and they are both held by the same screw. the one behind was disconnected causing the fuse to keep blowing, with all 3 being disconnected caused the computer to fry. But if you havent been messing with those ground wires then it may be something else like a short somewhere , rust and corrosion on those and any ground wires, but reconnecting them and then replacing the computer seemed to have fixed it. there very well could be a problem inside the computer as well.

 

Replacement of the Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) that is mounted on the backside of the air intake filter housing solved my EFI fuse blowing problem for a 2001 Lexus RX-300. Look between the Brake Fluid Reservoir and the Air Filter Housing to view the VSV.

My problem: EFI fuse blew as soon as ignition switch was put in the "On" position.

Seems that when the VSV was energized (which apparently occurs immediately upon turning the ignition key switch to "On"), there was a short in the VSV that caused the EFI fuse to blow. With the VSV not energized, the resistance between the two pins at the cable connector was normal (about 18 ohms as I recall).

After five days of trying to fix the problem myself, I took the car to a local repair shop. That repair shop took another five days to figure out the problem. Cost me $600, which was very disappointing as they advertised a fixed price for determining the problem ($125) and would apply that fee to the cost of repair. The final bill was primarily labor to figure out the problem. Replacing the VSV takes less than 30 minutes.

Replacement part might be:
Denso: Vacuum Valve Part Number: 7880-01183479 Price $50 - $75

 

Having the same problem after changing knock sensors and removing intake Did changing the computer and fixing ground fix your problem?