tn96dc

iTrader: (7)

Just wondering if there's any second gen GS guys that have aftermarket subs and have their factory sub removed to act as a bandpass? Can anyone chime in?

Shibumi1

are you trying to use your trunk as the vented part of a bandpass encl or tryin to put a bandpass encl in your gs?

jamodeo

iTrader: (1)

This does not directly answer your question but I had a factory ported box for my kicker L5 12" and I just removed the stock nakamichi sub so the sound might just "travel" through to the cabin better via the gaping hole. It might have made a difference but all i know is that darn deck always rattled... I was going to get dynamat installed but I got into an accident before this could ever be done.

-Joe

tn96dc

iTrader: (7)

this is exactly what I was wondering... I want to know if the bass will travel into the cabin better by removing the factory subwoofer...

Shibumi1

yes it would.. i had (part of my 1st system) had a prefab encl with 1 12 and it sounded incredible..

tn96dc

iTrader: (7)

any pics? i'm trying to envision what you mean

Shibumi1

gimme a day or 2... i'll call a few of my customers to see if i can get 1of them to come in so i can get some pics...

Shibumi1

i only have pics of 3rd (an final )system, but the 1st system i removed the oem sub an put the prefab on the drivers side as close to the seat back as possible (sub facing rear)..

here are some pics of system 3...
in this set up i cut a 36" x 12" opening in the rear deck an loaded the enclosure directly up to it so all the bass came into the pass compartment (no trunk rattle) but the rear window did flex a bit..lol

tn96dc

iTrader: (7)

that's really nice... i just have a box with 2 12" JL's that fits perfectly in the spot between the shock towers

Shibumi1

remove the oem sub an you should notice a huge increase in bass response

tn96dc

iTrader: (7)

I will do that today : thanks! It seems that you're pretty knowledgeable about this stuff... just wondering, i have a problem where my lights dim when i have it loud. One reason is I believe that i have to turn it much louder because the frequencies are kept in the trunk and not able to pass into the cabin well. Second is, perhaps a better ground? I have my amp grounded into the chassis, but someone told me that it would help if I grounded my amp to the engine... what are your thoughts about that?

oslouie

It's not that. It's because at lower frequencies, your amp draws more current from your electrical system and your stock electrical can't support it. You're draining your battery too fast and your alternator can't keep up with it. Ever notice how lights get dimmer when your battery dies(goes below 12 volts)? That's the same thing that's happening here. You're dipping below voltage throughout the whole car.

What kind of amp do you have? Your amp is supposed to be grounded to the frame as close to the amp as possible. The reason you are experiencing dimming is because your electrical system can't supply the current your amp needs. You'll have to do the Big3 upgrade:

http://carstereoclassifieds.org/foru...read.php?t=204

Then add another battery in the trunk or do a bigger AGM battery in the front and if that doesn't help, then you'll need to upgrade your alternator to one with a higher amperage output.

People can't just throw a big amp in their vehicle and not take these things into consideration. If you don't do the upgrades listed above, you WILL be replacing your alternator. I found that out the hard way many years back when I kept killing my alternator on my Accord.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

I agree with the above - except for adding an additional battery in the trunk to an existing problematic system. This is simply asking for trouble since the alternator is already not keeping up with the current demand. Extra batteries do absolutely nothing to stop this problem if they cannot get supply. The big 3 upgrade will ensure that the vehicle charging system is at optimum operating capacity. If you still have dimming, an additional battery simply becomes another load on the alternator since it will demand current as the amp depletes it. If the alternator cannot support the car and one battery, it certainly cannot support two. The only solution for this problem if it persists beyond the big 3 upgrade is a higher output alternator. Additional storage capacity only comes into play for engine off operation, which is when adding batteries is beneficial.

Big Mack

oslouie

This is true but if he allows the alternator to charge both batteries without having his system up all the time, both batteries can get a charge and he'll have more power on reserve. I've done this in my Prelude with only 80 amp alternator and two batteries have been able to hold 3k rms at a .5 ohm load with slight dimming. Just know when to turn your system down to let your electrical replenish and you'll be fine.

Shibumi1

i'd upgrade the ground(4awg) from the engine block to chassis, also front battery gound to chassis as well as the ground to the amp (making sure to grind down to metal) then id swap the oem battery to an optima 1000cca red top battery..that should eliminate any voltage issues (assuming your alternator functions properly)

the optima has a low internal resistance which puts less strain on the alternator to recharge it as well as being able to back up the alternator when its output is surpassed..

as for system replenishment i agree totally as a rule of thumb every 30 mins of hard sustained play allow 10mins recharge time b4 shutting down the engine ( w optima batts.. if your using other batts go 50/50 ratio)