alee350

Alright to start off Im going to admit I know absolutely nothing about subs amps and capacitors or even how to hook them up but I do have you guys for help right? haha j/k. Im trying to put a system in my 2is using two kicker l7's 10inchs they are 2x2ohms from what I understand would using this amp and capacitor do the "trick" if not please recommend any that would make my system sick!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390365942717...ht_6565wt_1141

Please put your inputs in quick because I plan to get these things on cyber monday thank you!!!

mkorsu

Amp will work fine. Can the cap though.

Wire each sub in series for a 4 ohm load each then wire the 2 subs in parallel for a net 2 ohm load. Amp states 1200w @ 2 ohm. 600w each sub.

alee350

Alright sounds good what does the capacitor do anyways just for future knowledge?

mkorsu

It simply stores voltage until there is a need for it. It then can discharge (send the voltage to the device (amp) that needs it) rapidly.

Some installers like them and use them, others like myself find them used too much as band aids. ie when a shop tells you that the capacitor that he wants to sell and install for you will cost $100 and that it will stop your headlights from dimming when the bass hits, instead of doing the proper thing and upgrading the charging system and possibly increasing the number of batteries in the system.

With what you have there should be no need for a cap or alternator upgrades. However, the amp you are looking at has the potential to draw 83.33 amps of current at 14.4 volts with a 2 ohm load, although you will never see that kind of draw. I would estimate that you would see roughly 50-60 amps drawn max at full volume. If another amp is added into the mix running your lights, heater, defroster & radio may cause dimming of the headlights and potentially damage the alternator in the long run.

alee350

alright that makes sense thank you for all the help!!!

Shibumi1

when doin your install make sure to add a 4awg ground from engine block to chassis AND oem batt to chassis...remember to remove paint in area to be grounded.. this will help w/voltage issues.. most people overlook the ground in the vehicle ($5 fix vs $100cap) but the cap is more profit for the salesman...

irishcharm

iTrader: (1)

Im running just one Kicker L7, a Kicker IX 1000.1 and a ZX 650x4 and my altenator is not a happy camper. just letting you know that there is a performance one available for around $600.

Shibumi1

try swapping the oem batt for an optima red top..... (lower internal resistance will reduce load on alt) then u can add a 2nd batt in rear to help w current draw overages... an still have a lower resistance than the oem batt.. (4 optima batts combined have the same resistance as 1 normal lead cell batt)

BUT u already knew that...

irishcharm

iTrader: (1)

of course. still meaning to get around to that. on my long list of to-do's when finances become available. looking into a kenitick battery as a primary but still have my yellow top from my old rx8 laying around. a buddy of mine gets a decent discount on keniticks......however it is funny to see my rps go from 400-1000 and vary as I sit at a stop light in drive lol.