Need Help Identifying
#1
Need Help Identifying
Saw this in Japanese mag and was curious what its called. I want to add some LEDs inside my cabin's cup holder and thought using this might make things easier. Any help is greatly appreciated!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/75984681@N08/6954487962/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/75984681@N08/6954487962/
#3
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Big Mack
#4
i agree with big mack... you can try them but its been in my experience that they dont always give you a great connection 100% of the time... only time I've ever liked using them is when there is a extremely tight spot your getting into or a short wire... otherwise butt connectors and crimp caps are always a good choice
#7
these are useless unless youre using them for big wires. you'd have better luck cutting and using electrical tape..lolol
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#8
Lead Lap
I've used similar 3M Scotchlok connectors without problems hundreds of times since they were introduced over 45 years ago. I've even used them in exposed applications and then heat shinked them to make the connection waterproof. I do sometimes wrap them with a bit of tape to make sure that the Scotchlok cover doesn't pop open when using them in an unexposed area.
I particularly like them for installing aftermarket electronics in cars that are still under warranty since my goal is to never cut a wire in a vehicle that is under warranty. I want the installation to be undetectable after an aftermarket electronic component is removed.
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Most circuits don't draw a lot of power on a security system (the most common use for these connectors in a shop) for basic things like disarming of factory units. Locks, power windows, and remote starts, however, draw quite a bit more, and you're trying to pull that through a sliver of metal that is literally touching only the outside strands of a wire, reducing it to something equivalent to 18ga (or less). That's a lot to ask of a small sliver of metal.
I've used similar 3M Scotchlok connectors without problems hundreds of times since they were introduced over 45 years ago. I've even used them in exposed applications and then heat shinked them to make the connection waterproof. I do sometimes wrap them with a bit of tape to make sure that the Scotchlok cover doesn't pop open when using them in an unexposed area.
I particularly like them for installing aftermarket electronics in cars that are still under warranty since my goal is to never cut a wire in a vehicle that is under warranty. I want the installation to be undetectable after an aftermarket electronic component is removed.
As I said before, for an extremely basic connection like OP was looking for, I wouldn't have much concern, but if you want secure, stable, weather-resistant, etc., you're looking for a different tool.
Big Mack
#10
Lead Lap
Yes, the OP was looking for "an extremely basic connection". It is not necessary to "demonize" a product or idea to make a point. One size rarely fits all.
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#12
Lead Lap
Does being a 3M shareholder count? OK with you if I hold Toyota ADR's? I'm not aware of owning shares in companies that make soldering irons but I'll look into it if that's the wave of the future.
Like to see the current Scotchlok catalog?: http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...20Brochure.pdf
They've got lots of nifty stuff most people have never seen including tools to properly install their connectors.
Like to see the current Scotchlok catalog?: http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...20Brochure.pdf
They've got lots of nifty stuff most people have never seen including tools to properly install their connectors.
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I figured there had to be some kind of motivation for the vigorous defense of something that needed none, and it shows that your defense is self serving. Damn, I'm good...
Are you asking for my blessing? While it's very sweet, I'm not giving any financial advice here since it's against the law (and violates my licenses). Nice try, however, at sarcasm. Fail.
Ah, but those of us who have seen them still don't recommend them when they're not the right tools for the job.
Good link, BTW. It shows that the connector in question is not the right tool. It is made for solid strand conductors, not multiple strands, and only good for smaller wires. D'oh! Guess we were right all along...
Big Mack
Are you asking for my blessing? While it's very sweet, I'm not giving any financial advice here since it's against the law (and violates my licenses). Nice try, however, at sarcasm. Fail.
Good link, BTW. It shows that the connector in question is not the right tool. It is made for solid strand conductors, not multiple strands, and only good for smaller wires. D'oh! Guess we were right all along...
Big Mack
#15
Driver School Candidate
old thread... but i felt like i had to say something from my experience with them.
I used them in my mods but have been reading how bad these are in various forums. I decided to replace all my Scotchloks and T Taps and solder those connections.
When I pulled the Scotchloks out half of them had cut into the wires. On all of them at least 1 strand of wire was cut. In some cases half the strands were cut! The Scotchloks seems to work better with smaller gauge wires. Probably because they are more flexible. Any yes, I used the correct size connector for the gauge of wire. The T Taps were particularly bad. In all cases the wires had kinks in them.
I would encourage people to rethink using them. I think in SOME applications these could work but in ALL cases I've found so far I have been able to solder my connections. So except for really really tight spots were I can't get in with my soldering iron I would avoid these connectors.
I used them in my mods but have been reading how bad these are in various forums. I decided to replace all my Scotchloks and T Taps and solder those connections.
When I pulled the Scotchloks out half of them had cut into the wires. On all of them at least 1 strand of wire was cut. In some cases half the strands were cut! The Scotchloks seems to work better with smaller gauge wires. Probably because they are more flexible. Any yes, I used the correct size connector for the gauge of wire. The T Taps were particularly bad. In all cases the wires had kinks in them.
I would encourage people to rethink using them. I think in SOME applications these could work but in ALL cases I've found so far I have been able to solder my connections. So except for really really tight spots were I can't get in with my soldering iron I would avoid these connectors.
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