sound systems
#1
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What's up guys I just got a sound system put in my car amp, subs, etc. I noticed at night that my headlights would dim in and out when I have the bass all the way up. And I noticed the the dash board lights (Odometer) light is very dim also. It is dimmer than usual. I never had a system before. So I am new to the game. If anyone could tell me what they think I would appreciate it.
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You either need to install another alternator, (that means you'd have 2) one for your car and the other for the system.. Or your going to need some capacitors... IMO I'd go with the extra alternator... But here are what the capacitors look like... Hope this helps....
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Last edited by MrSypher; 12-03-02 at 09:10 PM.
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I know this is obvious but did you check your dimmer for the dash lights ?, being dimmer than usual that would be my first check.
And I would go with a farad per 500 watts IMO vs the 2nd alternator.
And I would go with a farad per 500 watts IMO vs the 2nd alternator.
#4
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mrsypher,
i've heard of extra batteries but this is the first time I've heard of an extra alternator. Usually you swap the alternator with another one that provides more current.
Phillycat-24,
If you say that you headlights only dim when the bass is turned up all the way, then adding the a capacitor to bass amp should fix the problem. If the dimming is still present, then you maybe drawing more amperes than what the stock alternator can provide. (which means you probably have a crazy amount of power in you system...I'm running 2 300 watt amps and no dimming problems for me) If this is the case, you may have to get a bigger alternator put in the car. There are aftermarket ones available, but usually a good stereo shop can take your stock alternator and have the coils re-spun to provide more output. Oh and extra batteries are only good when you plan to play your stereo for extended periods of time with the car off.
hope that helps...
i've heard of extra batteries but this is the first time I've heard of an extra alternator. Usually you swap the alternator with another one that provides more current.
Phillycat-24,
If you say that you headlights only dim when the bass is turned up all the way, then adding the a capacitor to bass amp should fix the problem. If the dimming is still present, then you maybe drawing more amperes than what the stock alternator can provide. (which means you probably have a crazy amount of power in you system...I'm running 2 300 watt amps and no dimming problems for me) If this is the case, you may have to get a bigger alternator put in the car. There are aftermarket ones available, but usually a good stereo shop can take your stock alternator and have the coils re-spun to provide more output. Oh and extra batteries are only good when you plan to play your stereo for extended periods of time with the car off.
hope that helps...
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Originally posted by mrsypher
You either need to install another alternator, (that means you'd have 2) one for your car and the other for the system.. Or your going to need some capacitors... IMO I'd go with the extra alternator... But here are what the capacitors look like... Hope this helps....
You either need to install another alternator, (that means you'd have 2) one for your car and the other for the system.. Or your going to need some capacitors... IMO I'd go with the extra alternator... But here are what the capacitors look like... Hope this helps....
![Wink](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
about capactitor. DON"T BUY THEM. they don't really work. they actually put more drain on your electrical system. for driving i would upgrade the alternator because thats where your system is constantly going to get its power from. and if you have money or if you bump your sounds a lot with engine off get an optima yellow top around 150
#6
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Caps work, but NOT for dimming lights. Capacitors are intended to be used to hold out deep bass notes and prevent the amp from clipping.
A higher output alternator, or even a bigger battery will help out TREMENDOUSLY.
A higher output alternator, or even a bigger battery will help out TREMENDOUSLY.
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#8
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Philly - Welcome to the world of car audio!
The stock GS alternator is rated at 110 amps ( cold rating ) so it depends on just how large of a system U have. Percy's running his McIntosh/Dynaudio/Velodyne system with no problems on the stock alternator but those R very efficient amps & he's not a basshead!!
Try the easiest approach mentioned by gleepoy - check the power & ground wires for proper sizing. U can get this from either the USAC or IASCA websites ( believe that there's an electronic copy of their rulebooks on there via Adobe ). Barring that, caps will help during rapid bass transients but not much on steady bass notes as they don't have time to fully recharge. Another battery will only help if U play the system alot with the car not running as the system runs off the alternator while it is. Also, a second battery will be an additional load for the alternator to handle, definitely cutting some time off of it's lifespan.
Yes, I have a second system-dedicated battery but I used to compete. A last option would be to check out the Accuvolt step-up voltage regulators made by Jacobs Electronics. www.jacobselectronics.com These work really well & have the added bonus of cleaning up alot of system noise induced by inadequate voltage. Good luck!!
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Yes, I have a second system-dedicated battery but I used to compete. A last option would be to check out the Accuvolt step-up voltage regulators made by Jacobs Electronics. www.jacobselectronics.com These work really well & have the added bonus of cleaning up alot of system noise induced by inadequate voltage. Good luck!!
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Last edited by Mean Gene; 12-14-02 at 11:38 AM.
#10
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The caps may work, but they're more of a band-aid on the real problem. When it's my money, I'd rather save the band-aid money and put it towards addressing the root of the problem. Upgrade your underhood ground wires and the wire from alternator to battery, if you're still seeing voltage drop, a bigger alt. would be my next step, and a yellow or red top if you'd like.
#11
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I'm seeing the same problem with my system (headlights dimming). I don't have a huge system by any means. Just one Kicker 700.5 pushing two Kicker Comp 10's. Maybe around 300 watts going to the subs from what the installer could estimate. The only diff is that i DO have an Optima Redtop, and this is STILL happening. I've had BAD experiences with beefed-up alternators in the past. What gives????
#12
Search Function Inc.
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I have just upgraded my alt to 160 cold amps, I have two BatCaps 400's running instead of capacitors and I have 3KWRMS of A/B power going through my system. I still have dimming lights. The problem is in the voltage regulator. Stock Lexus one is fairly slow so when power is delivered it can't reach the right spot fast enough. I am installing an external one right after christmas. Just for the info on dimming issues.
#13
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Originally posted by retrodrive
I have just upgraded my alt to 160 cold amps, I have two BatCaps 400's running instead of capacitors and I have 3KWRMS of A/B power going through my system. I still have dimming lights. The problem is in the voltage regulator. Stock Lexus one is fairly slow so when power is delivered it can't reach the right spot fast enough. I am installing an external one right after christmas. Just for the info on dimming issues.
I have just upgraded my alt to 160 cold amps, I have two BatCaps 400's running instead of capacitors and I have 3KWRMS of A/B power going through my system. I still have dimming lights. The problem is in the voltage regulator. Stock Lexus one is fairly slow so when power is delivered it can't reach the right spot fast enough. I am installing an external one right after christmas. Just for the info on dimming issues.
Eric
Last edited by ebruce2; 12-18-02 at 10:10 AM.
#14
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I have to favor with Mean Gene. Had the Jacobs AccuVolt in my Supra with 2 12" Kicker Comp Subs in a ported box and Rockford Fosgate Power 500. When the volume was up high, bass hittin hard, lights flickered. Had no problems after installing AccuVolt.
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