non chambered sub box question
#31
That's parallel wiring. You're getting much more power and the mono signal subs should be getting, but your amp may not be able to handle the load for long periods of time. What amp are you using, btw?
#33
Lexus Champion
Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 1,742
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lvangundy,
You have the amp in what is referred to as bridged parallel. Bridged takes the load to 1/2 what it would normally be.
Parallel resistence of the two woofers = 2ohms.
So your amp is at a 1ohm load.
You will probably not want to load that particular amp to 1ohm. So you need to wire them in series. But due to the massive misinformation in this thread, you might want to call Todd or swing by his shop.
PM me if you want.
MW
You have the amp in what is referred to as bridged parallel. Bridged takes the load to 1/2 what it would normally be.
Parallel resistence of the two woofers = 2ohms.
So your amp is at a 1ohm load.
You will probably not want to load that particular amp to 1ohm. So you need to wire them in series. But due to the massive misinformation in this thread, you might want to call Todd or swing by his shop.
PM me if you want.
MW
#34
Originally posted by pcmw
Lvangundy,
You have the amp in what is referred to as bridged parallel. Bridged takes the load to 1/2 what it would normally be.
Parallel resistence of the two woofers = 2ohms.
So your amp is at a 1ohm load.
MW
Lvangundy,
You have the amp in what is referred to as bridged parallel. Bridged takes the load to 1/2 what it would normally be.
Parallel resistence of the two woofers = 2ohms.
So your amp is at a 1ohm load.
MW
Last edited by BabaBooey; 12-08-02 at 11:40 PM.
#35
Originally posted by BabaBooey
Ummmmmmmm no. It's a 2 ohm mono load. The website claims that the amp can handle a 2 ohm load, but I'm sure they're talking about stereo. If it can't handle the load it should start blowing fuses...
Ummmmmmmm no. It's a 2 ohm mono load. The website claims that the amp can handle a 2 ohm load, but I'm sure they're talking about stereo. If it can't handle the load it should start blowing fuses...
In essance he is correct...
Symantically, you are correct...
Assuming 2 4 ohm speaks wired in parallel, he is wired to 2 ohms. The amp sees 2 ohms, but this would mean it would need to be 1 ohm bridged stable, which it is not.
Tim
#36
Originally posted by TimDimman
Assuming 2 4 ohm speaks wired in parallel, he is wired to 2 ohms. The amp sees 2 ohms, but this would mean it would need to be 1 ohm bridged stable, which it is not.
Tim
Assuming 2 4 ohm speaks wired in parallel, he is wired to 2 ohms. The amp sees 2 ohms, but this would mean it would need to be 1 ohm bridged stable, which it is not.
Tim
#37
Lexus Champion
Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 1,742
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
BabaBooey,
I cannot tell if you are being difficult or you really don't understand. I will hope it is the later. When you bridge an amplifier, the amp sees half the load you are giving to it because you have removed resistence.
http://www.1388.com/articles/tech_un...ge2/page2.html
That may help you out.
I stated that this was the case in my explanation and differentiated that the amp saw this 2ohm load as 1.
Please do your homework before you give bad advice.
MW
I cannot tell if you are being difficult or you really don't understand. I will hope it is the later. When you bridge an amplifier, the amp sees half the load you are giving to it because you have removed resistence.
http://www.1388.com/articles/tech_un...ge2/page2.html
Remember bridging makes an 8-ohm load look like 4 ohms, a 4-ohm load look like 2 ohms, etc.
I stated that this was the case in my explanation and differentiated that the amp saw this 2ohm load as 1.
Please do your homework before you give bad advice.
MW
#38
I can't believe we're having this discussion. If you have a 4 ohm SVC sub and bridge it to an amplifier, it's still a 4 ohm load. This is car audio at its most basic form. An amplifier cannot see a 2 ohm load with a single 4 ohm VC. The only similarities between bridging a 4 ohm speaker and a 2 ohm load is that the amplifier puts out the same bridged as it would at two ohm stereo.
You are the ones giving the poor advice. By your logic, with his amp, which puts out max power at a 4 ohm mono load, he should go about purchasing an 8 ohm speaker. The fact that I'm outnumbered in this argument could cause him to do so is pretty dissapointing...
You are the ones giving the poor advice. By your logic, with his amp, which puts out max power at a 4 ohm mono load, he should go about purchasing an 8 ohm speaker. The fact that I'm outnumbered in this argument could cause him to do so is pretty dissapointing...
Last edited by BabaBooey; 12-09-02 at 01:40 PM.
#39
Lexus Champion
Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 1,742
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Baba,
I cannot force you to learn, but I would hope you read the last article I linked.
Here are a few more if you are still having trouble.
http://www.audiovideo101.com/learn/a...onid=13&List=1
http://www.jeffrowland.com/MC-6%20Tech%20Discussion.htm
http://elliottelectronics.com/Spkwiremain.htm
Hope that helps you out.
MW
I cannot force you to learn, but I would hope you read the last article I linked.
Here are a few more if you are still having trouble.
http://www.audiovideo101.com/learn/a...onid=13&List=1
By bridging an amplifier you essentially halve the impedance it sees from a given speaker so an 8 ohm speaker looks like a 4 ohm speaker to the bridged amp.
When an amplifier is bridged, each output channel sees only one-half of the load impedance (the loudspeaker load), which effectively doubles the amount of current each output channel must produce.
If you are bridging the amplifier then divide the load values by two.
Hope that helps you out.
MW
#41
Originally posted by BabaBooey
Huh? Think about what you're saying. The amp is seeing a 2 ohm mono load. You're saying that this means it needs to be 1 ohm mono stable. That makes no sense whatsoever. If he's go two 4 ohm speakers wired in parallel and bridged to the amp, it needs to be two ohm mono stable, simple as that.
Huh? Think about what you're saying. The amp is seeing a 2 ohm mono load. You're saying that this means it needs to be 1 ohm mono stable. That makes no sense whatsoever. If he's go two 4 ohm speakers wired in parallel and bridged to the amp, it needs to be two ohm mono stable, simple as that.
It's all about context...you can't just read that statement alone...you have to relate it to everything that's been discussed...
You're just being hard headed now...(hopefully...)
If it helps, reread prior posts before posting a response. Don't hang yourself on the most recent response.
Tim
#42
Originally posted by pcmw
Baba,
I cannot force you to learn, but I would hope you read the last article I linked.
Baba,
I cannot force you to learn, but I would hope you read the last article I linked.
http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/bridging.htm
"NOTE:
Some people say that when an amplifier is bridged onto a 4 ohm load, it 'sees' a 2 ohm load. While it is true that the same current flows whether the amp is bridged on a 4 ohm load or a 2 ohm stereo load, the amplifier is driving a 4 ohm load across its outputs. A single 4 ohm speaker can never be a 2 ohm load."
#43
Originally posted by Lvangundy
OK - Anyone recommend a decent amp under $200 besides what Best Buy has? (jensen, lightning, etc..)
Something like 100W RMS.
OK - Anyone recommend a decent amp under $200 besides what Best Buy has? (jensen, lightning, etc..)
Something like 100W RMS.
#45
Lexus Test Driver
Originally posted by BabaBooey
I believe you're the one that needs to get a clue. What do you think a vent is for? While an amp is being clipped, current is repeatedly flowing through the voice coil. This causes the VC to heat up. All the while, the cone/spider remain extended. Since the cone isn't returning to the original position, it isn't going to be able to push warm air from around the VC out of the vent.
You are certainly contributing to misinformation on the board...
Sorry I'm halfassing these answers, the Saints game is on. I'll continue to do what I can though until the game is over, then I'll be able to give appropriate responses...
I believe you're the one that needs to get a clue. What do you think a vent is for? While an amp is being clipped, current is repeatedly flowing through the voice coil. This causes the VC to heat up. All the while, the cone/spider remain extended. Since the cone isn't returning to the original position, it isn't going to be able to push warm air from around the VC out of the vent.
You are certainly contributing to misinformation on the board...
Sorry I'm halfassing these answers, the Saints game is on. I'll continue to do what I can though until the game is over, then I'll be able to give appropriate responses...
I need to get a clue? I think I've been doing this long enough to have a "clue", what are your credentials? In fact, I've never even heard of you before, so you are probably just off the turnip truck and a little wet behind the ears. That happens sometimes, we'll just dismiss your behavior as "eagerness".
Whether an amp is being clipped or not, current is flowing through the voice coil. According to what you just said, the speaker will STAY at whatever position it is in. This is the only conclusion since you say it won't move and push air around the VC. This would only happen with DC, and would have to be CONSTANT DC. Otherwise, a speaker will always be moving, distorted, clipped or otherwise.
We won't bother to question your other misinformed points, as your statements are proof enough that you are a little confused. I can tell you for a fact that I don't post anything unless I know it is true, and I've been doing this 12 volt stuff for a while.
Once again, please don't post things to confused the already confused.