TheAzn

iTrader: (2)

So I had a temporary electrical issue with my SC which I still cannot source the problem yet but I think it is a grounding issue.

Just a few questions...

Is it worth buying a grounding kit which is basically a box of cut wires with crimps on both ends? Like Sun, Hyper and Daizen grounding kits. Or will it be just the same as, and cheaper to, buy 4 - 8 gauge wire used for audio/ video installation and crimps to make my own kit?

Also, is there a such thing as "over grounding"? Like if I added more grounding wires to ground more areas of the engine/ transmission to the chassis...

Shibumi1

the major points are going to be from batt to chassis.. engine block to chassis.. make sure to remove paint an get a solid metal contact point(double metal or frame).. use a 4awg or larger(depending on your current needs) 100%OFC "Oxygen Free Copper" wire.. not the CCA "Copper Clad/Colored ALUMINUM " stuff.. i have that high strand count welding cable works great and its super flexible..i also use copper ring terminals not the plated gold/chrome junk..then if possible use singe grounding points in the rear or common points for multiple devices(amps etc) .. using the same paint removal process as under the hood..

Slammer1

First off, no such thing as over grounding your vehicle. As for the prefab kits, I would just take a look at what you plan to do and figure out the lengths and gauge wire that you need. Go to a local stereo shop and tell them what runs you need and let them make the cables up for you. I use Memphis wire for all of my installs because I know that it is a "true" AWG wire, and it is OFC too. They will cut the wire and crimp the ring terminals for you. My shop crimps and solders which is a plus (I am good with audio but suck at soldering). This is gonna be a lot cheaper than buying a ground kit. I have four extra grounds in my IS, and even added grounds to my Honda which doesn't even have a system installed in it. When I did SPL in my truck, I had extra grounds everywhere. I had extra 4 ga grounds up front, as well as in the cab, which were routed through the floor and bolted to the frame itself.

Shibumi1

curious.. extra grounds?? other than the battery and the engine block what "extra" grounds are there?? the entire chassis serves as ground..which all stems from the battery.. i add 1 from the engine block to increase flow from the alternator because the engine block isnt actually attached to the chassis (rubber motor mounts) so it requires a ground.. but multiple ground points can cause ground loops.. hence engine noise which require ground loop isolators or noise filters.. it makes better sense if your adding audio or electronics in the rear of your car ground them to a single point in the rear.. but having a separate ground point for each device can cause varying voltage issues.. i suggest a ground distribution block (same a power distribution block but no fuses are required)

if you look closely the factory does the same multiple grounds at a single solid point on the chassis..

TheAzn

iTrader: (2)

I meant add more wires to ground the engine to the chassis. So if one ground somehow corrodes and fails, theres another route for ground. Not more batteries or something.

Shibumi1

understood... there are usually 2 from the block (1 top & 1 bottom) i replace the factory ones with my own.. and use their bolts...(after removing paint) at batt i add a 2nd too another point on frame