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Two 12 volt leads to one?

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Old 08-08-13 | 08:28 AM
  #1  
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rj4510
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Default Two 12 volt leads to one?

Hi all,

A while back, I replaced the deck in my wife's 99 GS400 Nakamichi system with after market, but there was no way I could get the amp to turn on to power the sub. Of course, things got way too hot to spend the time on it and have till October, before things cool off enough to get back to the project. Meanwhile, my wife keeps complainiung that her system is missing low end, so I need to do something....

Since I really don't have a ton of time to run a cable to the battery till later in the year, I was thinking, I could power up the old factory sub with an amp I have laying around to hold her over. Looking at the wiring diagram, there were two 12 volt leads to the old Nak amp that seem to come from the same junction somewhere. If I can use both leads together, it will give me enough current to power up the amp and run the sub.

I know, I know, I'll likely blow the sub in a heart beat...but that's if I'm driving the car. My wife, just wants the base back and never cranks it up, so it would hold her over till I get a real sub back in it later in the year.

So, back to my question, does anyone know if the two 12 volt leads can be combined to power the amp, just to have enough current to avoid bad things from happening? If yes, I can pre-wire my connections in the house and run the amp out tot the car and be done in 15 or less. If not, she'll just have to wait.

Will there need to be diodes pladed at each termination to avoid a loop back, or does that come inti play in this case?

Just figured I'd ask.
Old 08-10-13 | 08:35 PM
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From: Orlando STRONG!!
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if i'm understanding you properly why dont you use the oem amp to power the sub? you should be able to turn it on using the proper aftermarket harness... if not you can use the oem wires as long as its a small amp (200 watts or so... no more than 500 or a 40amp max draw but double check the factory fuse rating on the amp bcuz you shouldnt exceed that draw on the oem wires..)a diode wont be needed as the wires are parallel the one another comin from the fuse block.. but you'd still end up running rcas from the headunit.. so why not just run a proper power from the battery since the car has to come apart for that... the head unit wont have a sub speaker output.. only rca so a hi/lo convertor is not an option..
Old 08-10-13 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Shibumi1
if i'm understanding you properly why dont you use the oem amp to power the sub? you should be able to turn it on using the proper aftermarket harness... if not you can use the oem wires as long as its a small amp (200 watts or so... no more than 500 or a 40amp max draw but double check the factory fuse rating on the amp bcuz you shouldnt exceed that draw on the oem wires..)a diode wont be needed as the wires are parallel the one another comin from the fuse block.. but you'd still end up running rcas from the headunit.. so why not just run a proper power from the battery since the car has to come apart for that... the head unit wont have a sub speaker output.. only rca so a hi/lo convertor is not an option..
Ran the RCAs a long time ago, when I installed the deck and speakers. Thought I could trick the amp to turn on, but evidently it uses a digital signal, instead of remote wire on to turn on. I should have just run the amp power from the battery at the same time, but wasn't thinking.
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