Who's battery terminal block is this?
#1
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I've searched posts and galleries and can't seem to find whose picture this is. I would like to get in contact with them so if you know whose car this is, please let me know.
Thanks
Tim
Thanks
Tim
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Umm...
Is it just an illusion or is the +B wired to BOTH posts? That is major redundant WASTE of cable. Looks clean thou. I prefer the clean bus bars with hidden distribution block on the back side of the battery with the fuse located near the factory fuse housing. Just my stealth approach. I would also kill the warning sticker for the autostart system....
MW
Is it just an illusion or is the +B wired to BOTH posts? That is major redundant WASTE of cable. Looks clean thou. I prefer the clean bus bars with hidden distribution block on the back side of the battery with the fuse located near the factory fuse housing. Just my stealth approach. I would also kill the warning sticker for the autostart system....
MW
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Yeah pcmw, I can't tell if there is a connection at the side terminal as well as the top post - that would be a waste - -
But this is a nice neat job, and a good solution for the "reverse terminal" layout of the stock SC battery wiring. I'm assuming that the double lead from the top post to the block is there to provide starter current to the oem connector at the rear of the battery.
Optima, by the way, does make a reverse terminal battery - it has an orange top and the part number is 34R - but you still have to do a little bending on the stock cables to get everything to fit. And the orange top looked garish in my engine bay, so I cut some abs plastic and disguised it inside the stock battery box - and have used the black split loom on my sub amp wiring too, and hid the fuseholder.
But this is a nice neat job, and a good solution for the "reverse terminal" layout of the stock SC battery wiring. I'm assuming that the double lead from the top post to the block is there to provide starter current to the oem connector at the rear of the battery.
Optima, by the way, does make a reverse terminal battery - it has an orange top and the part number is 34R - but you still have to do a little bending on the stock cables to get everything to fit. And the orange top looked garish in my engine bay, so I cut some abs plastic and disguised it inside the stock battery box - and have used the black split loom on my sub amp wiring too, and hid the fuseholder.
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actually it seems to make perfect sense to me. the person couldnt get a 1/0 battery cable connector for the post so he went with the 4 ga and 8 ga connectors and jumped it into a 1/0 connector.
the jumper from the top to the side was just to ensure the extra current wouldnt be a problem. seems like he is running some serious high amp stuff.
the jumper from the top to the side was just to ensure the extra current wouldnt be a problem. seems like he is running some serious high amp stuff.
Last edited by O. L. T.; 02-22-03 at 11:21 AM.
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notice how thick the loom is between the dist block and the fuseable link. the original setup called for 1/0 and without a 1/0 connector he jumped 4 ga and 8 ga off the top post, but still needed a 4 ga from the other post to hold the current.
PLUS he needed a 4 ga for the starter and then a 1/0 for the system, so he HAD to do it that way. there are no terminal blocks that are 1/0 with 4 ga.
PLUS he needed a 4 ga for the starter and then a 1/0 for the system, so he HAD to do it that way. there are no terminal blocks that are 1/0 with 4 ga.
Last edited by O. L. T.; 02-22-03 at 11:26 AM.
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Originally posted by onelasttry
notice how thick the loom is between the dist block and the fuseable link. the original setup called for 1/0 and without a 1/0 connector he jumped 4 ga and 8 ga off the top post, but still needed a 4 ga from the other post to hold the current.
PLUS he needed a 4 ga for the starter and then a 1/0 for the system, so he HAD to do it that way. there are no terminal blocks that are 1/0 with 4 ga.
notice how thick the loom is between the dist block and the fuseable link. the original setup called for 1/0 and without a 1/0 connector he jumped 4 ga and 8 ga off the top post, but still needed a 4 ga from the other post to hold the current.
PLUS he needed a 4 ga for the starter and then a 1/0 for the system, so he HAD to do it that way. there are no terminal blocks that are 1/0 with 4 ga.
I've been wanting to replace my stock power wires anyway due to the fact that they are old and ugly.
Thanks,
Tim
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Originally posted by onelasttry
PLUS he needed a 4 ga for the starter and then a 1/0 for the system, so he HAD to do it that way. there are no terminal blocks that are 1/0 with 4 ga.
PLUS he needed a 4 ga for the starter and then a 1/0 for the system, so he HAD to do it that way. there are no terminal blocks that are 1/0 with 4 ga.
That model can do it with no problem. I think every combination is availible. My theory is that if it works for you, then great. I was just not sure why it was done that way.
MW
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All my factory wires are replaced and were easily connected to this Tsunami terminal block. You can put up to 5 wires on the ground block and 4 on the positive block. It takes between 8 and 1 GA from both sides. Two positive connections are fused and two are not. The wire I have running out the back runs directly to my starter. You also have the voltage readout in the center. Fits Optimas ONLY. Make sure you have hood clearance as I needed to do sheetmetal surgery in order to get mine to fit on my GS.
Last edited by RMMGS4; 02-24-03 at 10:50 AM.
#13
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Autotoys.com has it for $113
http://store.autotoys.com/cgi-bin/wfp53024.storefront
If the link doesn't work, just do a search in their website under "Optima".
http://store.autotoys.com/cgi-bin/wfp53024.storefront
If the link doesn't work, just do a search in their website under "Optima".
Last edited by RMMGS4; 02-24-03 at 12:23 PM.
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That model can do it with no problem. I think every combination is availible. My theory is that if it works for you, then great. I was just not sure why it was done that way.
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