Complete stereo system makeover w/pics
#17
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Originally posted by johnx219
hey wasup there tggoodrich
i like what you did to cover the left over space from the head unit. i was wondering if you would like to make me one with out the engraved letter on it. how much would you charge me? Im interested in fixing my sound system up for my car but dont no what to do. any suggestions
thanks
john
hey wasup there tggoodrich
i like what you did to cover the left over space from the head unit. i was wondering if you would like to make me one with out the engraved letter on it. how much would you charge me? Im interested in fixing my sound system up for my car but dont no what to do. any suggestions
thanks
john
Take a piece of 1/4" plexiglass (from Home Depot, etc...) and cut it to fit the opening. After that, paint it black on the BACK side, then get whatever engraving you want done at an engraving shop. I have the template for the engravers I could email to anyone if they want it.
Tim
#18
Driver School Candidate
I cheated and had my install done at a stereo shop called Tweeter.
They attached a universal plastic box below the mounting kit that came with the Alpine unit and used body filler to mold it and make it look like one piece. I use the box to hold sunglasses and the remote for the stereo. My only beef is that the paint on the mold does not completely match the plastic on the rest of the console. They did not charge much for the fabrication and I got the car back in 2 days.
They attached a universal plastic box below the mounting kit that came with the Alpine unit and used body filler to mold it and make it look like one piece. I use the box to hold sunglasses and the remote for the stereo. My only beef is that the paint on the mold does not completely match the plastic on the rest of the console. They did not charge much for the fabrication and I got the car back in 2 days.
#19
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
stero install update
Ok, I went back and redid the subwoofer mounting after getting too much rattling.
I took a piece of 5/8" MDF and cut it out in a square with cutouts for the metal sub frame's pieces that stick up (leaving a hole in the middle). This is different b/c most people just make a circular cut out to go directly over the round part of the frame to raid up the sub. Anyway, I then dynamatted the entire top of the deck. Putting the sub back in (with predrilled holes to mount), the MDF was too high towards the back and raised up the third brake light too much. To get around this, I cut out some of the underneath of that and removed a piece of it too. Then, putting everything back together, I had to use some body panel clips as extensions for mounting the 3rd brake light cover. The center of the rear deck is more raised than stock, but one can't even tell the difference b/c the seats go above the rear deck a little.
One last thing I did is pull down the roof liner and custom fit a layer of bubble wrap to place in between it and the roof. I was getting vibrations from there too.
Now my 10ib4 hits pretty hard and I don't have any more rattles.
I know this may be hard to picture, but I forgot to take pics while I was doing the work and I'm not pulling it aprat again
Hope this helps
I took a piece of 5/8" MDF and cut it out in a square with cutouts for the metal sub frame's pieces that stick up (leaving a hole in the middle). This is different b/c most people just make a circular cut out to go directly over the round part of the frame to raid up the sub. Anyway, I then dynamatted the entire top of the deck. Putting the sub back in (with predrilled holes to mount), the MDF was too high towards the back and raised up the third brake light too much. To get around this, I cut out some of the underneath of that and removed a piece of it too. Then, putting everything back together, I had to use some body panel clips as extensions for mounting the 3rd brake light cover. The center of the rear deck is more raised than stock, but one can't even tell the difference b/c the seats go above the rear deck a little.
One last thing I did is pull down the roof liner and custom fit a layer of bubble wrap to place in between it and the roof. I was getting vibrations from there too.
Now my 10ib4 hits pretty hard and I don't have any more rattles.
I know this may be hard to picture, but I forgot to take pics while I was doing the work and I'm not pulling it aprat again
Hope this helps
#21
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well like everyone else i have the same HU. How does the unit stay up in its position? dont we need to fill something behind the Plexi to hold it up? or is the plexiglass enough? Any ideas? im going to attempt the Headunit intsall myself, radio is going to drive me to insanity.
#22
I’m running 2 Alpine 1040D Type R’s in the trunk and this last weekend I found that by pressing down on the top of the back of the 3rd brake light 98% of my rattling noise stopped! I put a piece of plexi tightly between the brake light and the rear window and it sounds amazing!! I can't get over how clean my system now sounds because of this. I’m having a local glass company make me a piece custom fit to the brake light for $20. I’m sure there are other ways going about his but I’m very satisfied with my results. On my Alpine HU I use to have to leave the sub output below 3 because I couldn’t stand the rattling. Now I can easily turn it up to 10 with hardly any rattling whatsoever. Amazing!
#23
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It really looks like Ill attempt a headunit install this weekend. Any advice ? What wiring harness did you use? I remmeber someone mentioning using some other Toyota harness and just modifying it. Also, I plan on using the stock speakers for a few weeks more.
#24
Re: Complete stereo system makeover w/pics
This piece is only temporary until April when APEX releases their S-AFC version 2. I will then put the SAFC in place of the plexiglass.
Apexi S-AFC V-II available on ebay for $280.00-310.00
Apexi S-AFC V-II available on ebay for $280.00-310.00
#25
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Re: Re: Complete stereo system makeover w/pics
Originally posted by henrynguyen
This piece is only temporary until April when APEX releases their S-AFC version 2. I will then put the SAFC in place of the plexiglass.
Apexi S-AFC V-II available on ebay for $280.00-310.00
This piece is only temporary until April when APEX releases their S-AFC version 2. I will then put the SAFC in place of the plexiglass.
Apexi S-AFC V-II available on ebay for $280.00-310.00
#26
Re: Re: Re: Complete stereo system makeover w/pics
Originally posted by tggoodrich
Yeah, but that is the j-spec version, the warranty is not valid if you purchase that one for US use. The release date for US version is pushed back to June now
Yeah, but that is the j-spec version, the warranty is not valid if you purchase that one for US use. The release date for US version is pushed back to June now
http://www.edoperformance.com/products.php
#27
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Re: Re: Re: Re: Complete stereo system makeover w/pics
Originally posted by henrynguyen
It is availabe, check it out!!!
http://www.edoperformance.com/products.php
It is availabe, check it out!!!
http://www.edoperformance.com/products.php
I just spoke with them again today. The version you are seeing is the Japanaese version.
#29
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tggoodrich, im going to try this same install this weekend. how exactly does the HU stay in place? is the plexiglass that secure? did you have anything holding up the Headunit behind the plexiglass? or does the plexi in the front hold it all up. Also, which wiring harness did you use? was it just plug and play? thanks
#30
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Originally posted by hemogoblin
tggoodrich, im going to try this same install this weekend. how exactly does the HU stay in place? is the plexiglass that secure? did you have anything holding up the Headunit behind the plexiglass? or does the plexi in the front hold it all up. Also, which wiring harness did you use? was it just plug and play? thanks
tggoodrich, im going to try this same install this weekend. how exactly does the HU stay in place? is the plexiglass that secure? did you have anything holding up the Headunit behind the plexiglass? or does the plexi in the front hold it all up. Also, which wiring harness did you use? was it just plug and play? thanks
The wiring harness had to be spliced if I remember correctly.
Tim
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