Garbage Gamer

hey,

i just needed some general help

i came upon this deal and am wondering is it worth it and should i get it,
an xtant 2200ix amp for $300
and 2 12" xtant x1244 subs for $300 as well

the 2200 ix specs are 2 x 100 at 4 ohms, 2 x 200 at 2 ohms, and bridged at 1 x 400 at 4ohms

with the 2 subs, factory recommends 500 watts rms to run ech sub efficiently (but lots of people claim the 2200 ix delivers more than factory rated wattage)

the subs are 4ohm dvc's. from what i understand, i can either wire them together for a 4 or 1 ohm load.
my question is can i wire these in any configuration to get a final load of 2 ohms?
and also, have anyone ever ran one of these xtant series amps at 1ohm and not have something fried?

i don't know too much about car stereo, so i am unsure if there is a lot of power to be gained from running the 2 subs in a 1 ohm load, and also if something will fry within the circuit if i run it at 1 ohm.

i figure i can use the amp as 2 channels with 200 watts going to each sub seperately, but i'm thinking if i wire the subs together in a lower ohm load and bridge the amp, i will get more performance from it. if i am wrong, can someone please correct me?

are these subs worth it? or am i better off going with some jl's? (i prefer a slight bit more of sq than spl)
also, does anyone have any opinion on amps from hifonics, orion, and phoenix gold? are any of them garbage?

thanks for any help i can get

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

One thing you can do is use both outputs in a non-bridged configuration: For each sub, you can wire the two voice coils in parallel, yielding a 2-ohm load (assuming each voice coil is 4-ohms nominal). You can then drive each sub from one of the outputs, which can handle 2 ohms. (You would have to connect the lowpassed sub input to both of the line-level inputs.) This would prevent the 1-ohm load problem. 1-ohm load not recommended.

I can't comment in detail on the Xtant subs themselves, someone else here knows, I'm sure. I assume that these are the aluminum hexagonal jobbies, which I'm generally not a fan of. Sounds like decent pricing. Beware, because as soon as you start analyzing everything that's out there, you'll be spending more money. :-)

Garbage Gamer

yeah, i dont think that particular sub is too popular, but i wanted it b/c it was cheap.
im trying to work on a budget and add things to my system piece by piece

i passed it up for a better deal...
ended up getting a used ppi

anyways, since i have a single piece now, i am wondering how will i go about doing my car
i have the '99 LX truck, stock nakamichi system, and i want to keep the stock deck. want to keep the factory look and the in-dash changer.

so with the stock naka., do i need a line driver of some sort to boost the voltage signals? or can i just add an amp and a sub and keep everything as is?
does anyone know the size of the stock speakers?

does anyone know of a good location to mount amps and eqs? i really dont want to drill any holes into the car if i can avoid it (or drill as less as possible)

i am waiting on a ppi deq-230 equalizer to be delivered, but i am unsure if it has preamp/line driver functions or not. if i need a line driver and such a model does not have such functions, is there a particular brand or model you guys will go with?
i figured since i am adding piece by piece, it will be best to get an eq first since the aftermarket sub will overpower the stock speakers

and for the subs, i am leaning towards buying a single 12" idmax, but i am unsure of the ohms to get it in.
factory specs says my amp puts 500 at 4 ohms and 1000 at 2 ohms, and the idmax is rated at 1000 rms, but then again i heard it doesnt take too much power to run these subs effectively, so the question is should i get the 2ohm dvc version and run it at a final load of 4 ohms, or the 4ohm dvc version and run it at a final load of 2 ohms?

i also see a 10" velodyne on ebay now but am not sure if my pcx1500 amp with a subsonic filter will run it or not

thanks

retrodrive

1000wrms is perfect for a single IDMAX. Get a 2ohm version and put it to 1.5 sealed box. Although it takes about 800wrms to get the sub to it's limit, you would be better off having some extra power then lack of it. You have to realize that a sub in such setup would have a lot of output with even 300watts going to it. Your amp won't hit 1000wrms mark too often and even if it does the sub can handle 2000wrms spikes.

Garbage Gamer

thanks retro, i think you was one of the numerous posters who influenced me to check out image dynamics subs.
i remember seeing posts from you on how the idmax is a good blend of sq and spl, although i have yet to give it an actual listen.

i do know from my old systems that i dont like the JL W3 too much. i ran a 12" through a 0.85 ci sealed box with 150 watts from a phoenix gold ts series amp powering it and i remember that the bass notes from it played deep enough for me, but the problem was that the bass played too loose for me. i wanted tighter bass.

however, this seems to contradict me. my other system was a small rockford fosgate amp running a 10" orion sub through a very large ported box and that sub played much more to my tastes. maybe it was the install, maybe it was the smaller interior volume of a rx7 hatchback, or maybe it was a smaller sub that produced more accurate notes with faster efficiency, but i loved the bass that such a system produced, yet somehow i wanted a little more boom from it.

now im hoping my ppi (and idmax that i hope to get soon) will be the perfect blend of spl and sq for me. (not too sure am i looking at the right pathway)

and sorry, im kindof slow. i know you said 1000 watts, but yet i see a 2ohm version in your recommendation. i intepreted that you recommend a single 4ohm dvc sub wired in parralel for a final load of 2 ohms? or am i mistaken?

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

The IDMAX sounds incredibly like a kick drum (when kick drums are being played thru it), due to the characteristics of its transient response. This makes it *excellent* for rock and jazz, in a sealed enclosure. It also does dance music and rap well, but if you're looking for sonic boom looseness, especially for rap, you may find that it sounds a bit different than other woofers, and so requires more tuning and eq to get it to sound the way you want, and might be better in a ported enclosure in that case. Overall it is an excellent woofer with excellent build quality.

strongsail

I bought an Xtant amp to run my sub, it's smaller than yours, but it and the new sub sound great in my SC, and I have the unit bridged and both inputs fed with the speaker-level output from the oem Nak amp, so the signal is already low-pass. The amp has so much punch, in fact, that I have its output gain set at about 50%.

Input level shouldn't be an issue, since the amp has 5 input sensitivity levels, -20 to +20 dB, set with an internal jumper. Bandpass filters are also available as plug-in cards.

My unit produces 200W into 4 ohms bridged, seems to have loads of headroom, it's last year's model and cost me $200. I'm happy with it.

Garbage Gamer

thanks for the replies,
and yeah, i suppose the diff. input levels incorporated into xtant amps can be very useful

anyways, i just received my amp from ebay, took it to a shop to test it out, but a small incident occured.

when i examined the amp, i could have sworn that the bottom of the amp is all held together by metal screws (with an odd shaped key / not flathead or phillips).
i handed the amp to be tested, and 6 minutes later, the worker returned with the amp and told me that it was in working condition.
i left, flipped over the amp, and saw 2 white plastic plugs in place of where the metal screws were. had they switched my metal screws with plastic plugs? but why would it be worth stealing? i thought they stole something from inside the amp.
but upon 2nd look, i dont think they stole anything from inside the amp because the "warranty void if removed" sticker which covered 1 srew was still intact, and untouched, so obviously they didn't unsrew everything to have access to the actual circuit board.

so my question is, i know for sure they switched the metal screws with plastic caps on the bottom of the amp. should i be alarmed or worried? to my knowledge, this is relatively nothing and is just 2 screws, but i wouldnt know better and so i ask for opinions. i can provide pics, but it would take awhile to borrow a digital cam.

thanks