Stealther

Well I got some equipment installed today, and after a lot of going back and forth I picked up a JL Audio freeair woofer and powered it with my 500/1 (it was the only sub amp I had).

We are still experementing with the settings on the amp, but I'm not sure if I will be satisfied with it from my initial impressions, which were:

- Hits harder than the stock sub
- Plays louder (duh)
- Bottoms out pretty easily
- Doesn't like Metallica

For R&B/Top 40 type of music it plays quite well, but it cannot handle the double synth kickdrums from "And Justice for all..." The sub cries and looks for its mama when I try to play "Blackened". Is this because I've got too much power running to it, or a limitation of the freeair design (or both).

The shop that did my install is recommending a sealed enclosure with a 10" sub, firing downwards into the floor from a distance of 1-2 inches and removing the JL freeair sub from the hole to allow better penetration. I'm looking to accurate bass with enough SPL so that I can FEEL a kickdrum in my chest when turned up to "11", will a single 10 provide this with my 500/1 powering it in a sealed enclosure?

Here is a pic of my current setup, exposed.

Stealther

Here it is all assembled. I should mention that I really want to use the LEAST amount of trunk space possible. This is the reason I elected to try the freeair route.

Has anyone tried a W0 in a freeair setup? The shop said they tried it once and had good results.

LexLS

First what model/year Lexus is this? I'm only familiar with the LS.

I can't tell you about a freeair setup, but I can tell you that a freeair installation requires much more power than a box. If you do want to feel your bass I'd recommend a sealed box. Yes, you need to give up some trunk space, but it is worth it in my eyes. I'm running a 10" in a sealed box with 300 watts rms which is plenty to feel the bass. The bass travels through the hole where the factory sub was. So if you run 500 watts and a 10" sub you'll be able to feel the bass. Also, I've heard that pointing the sub downward is the worst possible method. I've personally had great results pointing the sub towards the rear. My current setup is a HUGE improvement over the factory sub!!! Here are links to my pics:
Empty Trunk
Trunk space not totally sacrificed!

BTW - that is real drumming on the song "and justice for all," Lars Ulrich plays double kick drum, it is not synthesized, he's a great drummer!!!

Earl!

TTurboPimp

iTrader: (12)

For starters, I would venture to geuss that you have too much power going to that free air sub. Check JL's website, they have a recommended power matrix. I have the 500/1going to a 12W6V2(which is pretty beefy sub), they seem to match up perfectly, sealed enclosure. I really dont think your going to get what your looking for with any free air sub. I would definitely go sealed, most of the JL subs use a pretty small sealed enclosure. My enclosure, amp rack, and capacitor, all fit on that little shelf area, still plenty of room in the trunk.

By the way, I think the JL10W7 would give you all that you need and more, and should match up perfectly with the 500/1, if your stuck on staying with a 10" sub. Otherwise, the 12W6V2 would be a perfect match up also, would also put you where you want to be.

Stealther

Earl: It is a '99 GS400. The main reservation I have about pointing the subs to the rear would be loss of accuracy, followed up by the fear of becoming a rattletrap. As far as the drums Lars uses, I was under the impression that the kick drums were synths (activated like a conventional kick-drum) if you listen to them, I've yet to hear a natural kick-drum sound like that And yes, Lars is a good drummer, but not a great political activist. My vote for favorite drummer still goes to Neal Peart.

TTurboPump: I spoke to someone at JL about running it, he said that it should still be ok, I would just need to pay attention if it was bottoming out. I will most likely be going with a sealed enclosure, possibly a 10W3v2 or maybe a 10W6v2. The main issue would be, how to orient it. Thanks for the feedback, and please let me know if you have more suggestions on woofer selection (remember, very small enclosure if possible with accurate bass being the goal).

Thanks!

400DGRZ

iTrader: (2)

I would recommend a setup like Dex and DaveGS4 have in their GS's. Search arond their sites if you haven't already.

Dex - http://www.digitalsimple.com

DaveGS4 - http://www.somniplex.com/auto.htm

Stealther

The 10IB4 is gone, threw it as far away from my car as I could (just kidding, it was exchanged). In its place is a 10W3v2 in a small sealed box facing the rear. I left the hole open where the stock sub used to be and it sounds great! You can't even compare the two setups.

After placing boxes firing forward, backward, up, down, angle, on a pillow, hanging from human hair, I've concluded that firing forward or back is the way to go with little difference between the two (facing rear SEEMS to be a little louder).

I could have gone with two 10s, but it was not in my budget. I was also thinking of a 10W6v2 but the mounting depth would be too deep (and extend over the ledge area in the GS) after the coverup panel and amp board was in place. I wanted the ability to take the box out (has some neat quick disconnects) and still leave the amps in place. I'll try to post some pictures this weekend, but needless to say, I'm happy! Thanks to everyone for their advice on the matter and Perry for his excellent book!



Tight bass, accurate, and decent SPL from a single 10 in a tiny box ahhh!

Stealther

If you don't have a non-fading subwoofer output on your headunit or if you are integrating into the factory radio, this is mandatory! I can't imagine not having the R)emote B)*** C)ontrol installed!

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

The problem you were having with the IB4 is not just merely from overpowering - it's what happens when you are trying to get loud, live-level sound from a transducer whose response cannot go there, resulting in the COMBINATION of overpowering (turning it up to try to squeeze more out of it) with the underdamped suspension characteristics, lack of excursion capability, and subsequent lack of large dynamic transient response that a free-air sub (usually) has. It also happens to be why most of us think the stock subs suck - whether or not you have the Pioneer or Nakamichi sub. The sub's suspension cannot both undergo a large excursion to produce the sudden intensity of the kick drum attack AND THEN control itself such that it doesn't overshoot, bottom out, or otherwise produce nasty distortions, in the huge volume of trunk air. There are a few subs that can conduct themselves well in both free-air and sealed configs, but these are subs with very well controlled suspensions and high typical power handling.

Stealther

Great explanation engin_ear!

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

Thanks.
I absolutely agree with your statement about the RBC. Absolutely required, best thing since sliced bread.