Stealther

I decided to redo my subwoofer system (again). I will be replacing the single JL Audio 10w3v2d6 with either, two 10w3v2d4 or a single 10W7. I'm building a sealed box on top of the trunk shelf of my '99 GS400 and am looking for ideas for concealing the system.

This box will be removable, but I also want it completely concealed. I was going to make a panel out of MDF spaced about 1.5 inches from the face of the sub box with grills flushed into it (for support) and carpet over the grills. What I haven't figured out is a method of securing the facade panel to the front of the box in a way that would allow repeated removal and reattachment. My initial thought was to place 4 bolts (cut to allow 3-4 threads of grip) exiting the front of the sub box and attaching them with small nuts that would be concealed by carpet flaps. But there has to be a better way that I'm not thinking about. Any ideas?

angelslex

This just to give you an I dea what u can do if you still need your trunk space and still need your spare tire. I have 12" solobaric L7 ported inside with the ported vented to the side and the sub firing up with no problems is nothing really that you would say Wow that s....h is of the hook but it does the job for me .

angelslex

more pics

angelslex

pics

angelslex

last pic

Stealther

That looks really clean Angelslex! I'm looking to do something similar except I have a few differences from your setup so that it can be removable if necessary for max luggage space. I have the amps mounted on a board against the seats so that I can remove the subs when I have a lot of luggage/kid stuff to haul.

I'm trying to come up with different ways of securing a concealment panel to the sub box (my box fires to the rear and is sealed). I pretty much have settled on using some bolts to hold the panel in place, now I just have to do it. I was just wondering if anyone else had done a fully concealed system while retaining the ability to remove the subs - and how they concealed it.

I like your rear deck panel, looks very nice!

angelslex

Thanks and good luck with your project.

007

That setup looks good angelslex....




If you guys want to conceal those screws holding your MDF together, make a L-shaped cut into the fabric, drill the hole, insert the screw and just push the fabric back. No glue should be necessary. and only you will know where the access screws are.

Here a pic.

007

Here's the entire trunk... Sub and Sirrus Satellite tuner is hidden.
This in on a 1st Gen GS3, we have our gas tank in the trunk behind the amp, really minimizes the room to work with. I have a box enclosing the gas tank, so the amp and such are mounted to that enclosure.

Stealther

007: My setup will look very similar to yours except my amps will be mounted behind the sub-box and the subs will be firing rearward. Your L-cuts are what I was thinking about when I mentioned carpet flaps and I plan on using bolts (small ones however) mainly so that repeated removals are possible. I dont feel comfortable cycling screws in the same spot (in MDF at least) more than a few times.

I'll get some pics up soon, the NBA playoffs are slowing my audio project!

007

"Carpet Flaps" = "L-Cuts" ... oh okay.... lol

You may have airflow problems if you put your amps behind the sub box... (near the seat right). But i am sure you thought of that.

Yeah i am with you on removing screws often. In the past i learned the hard way to properly predrill the holes for my screws. After doing so i dont have any problems. Well, at least not yet. My facade panel fits so snug i really don't need to use screws they are just there (only 2) for added security.

007

Stealther.... do you notice a big difference with your capacitor? I've been thinking about adding one. I only have one amp now 5-Channel but think about changing the sub setup and going with two amps. I will need some extra power for sure then.

I need it now really, in the summer i can't have my AC, Headlights and Radio on at a standstill for more than a few mins or it just KILLS my battery And i have 1000 cranking amps. Yeah.. a Cap is on the list for the future.

What brand/type do you have?

Stealther

Yeah I thought about the airflow issue, I'm running a JL Audio 500/1 for my subs and a Rockford Fosgate 4080DSM for my mids/highs. Both amps dont really get hot, just a little warm to the touch. I have space near the top of the amp board and the subwoofer for hot air to rise and escape out. Should be enough, I havent had problems yet <knock on MDF>

Here is a pic of the amp board. This pic is when I tried a JL Audio 10IB4 freeair sub


Here is the amps covered


The cover piece has been duplicated and this time will serve as the back panel for the sub-box. I'm still mulling over ideas for the front cover and how to hide the subs without obstructing them too much.

007

Nice Job

Stealther

Thats actually angelslex that has the cap. I'm leaning towards a Alumapro cap, but only the 15 farad version will take 2GA wire. I don't think adding a cap would help the problem you described. How much power is that amp of yours drawing? It sounds either an alternator or battery problem, a capacitor is there to provide quick bursts of power to your amps.

I have a moderately powered system and I can play it all day/night with headlights, AC, etc on.