DynAudio Amp Question
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My system thus far:
Stock Head Unit w/ AudioLink Power Link II LOCs
Fronts: Dynaudio 240MKII Running full range(Stock amp rolls them off at about 90-100HZ)
Rear: Dynaudio MW160 Running 50-100HZ (wired Mono from the Sub signal)
Sub: IDQ12 Running 28-55HZ
Amps: Alpine MRV340 50WX4 running the Dyns and JL500/1 on the IDQ12
The system sounds good! making kinda kick panels in the read door works well and leaves most of the sound stage in the front. It's almost transparent. Given the limitations of the factory head unit. Its a good way to get solid 50-100 HZ in the caben w/o making boom from the sub. The sub sounds much better this way!!!
My question is: Am I underpowered on the Dynes. Some highend stores are bugging me to try more power on them (suprise) ... "they need at least 80W to really sing"....
Is this true? Any recomended amps? Alpine makes an 80X4 version? How about the JL300/4? McIntosh??? Ahhhhh Need some suggestions from people not pimping equipment...
I could get another MRV340 and bridge them both (150WX4) but what about distortion?
Thanks
Stock Head Unit w/ AudioLink Power Link II LOCs
Fronts: Dynaudio 240MKII Running full range(Stock amp rolls them off at about 90-100HZ)
Rear: Dynaudio MW160 Running 50-100HZ (wired Mono from the Sub signal)
Sub: IDQ12 Running 28-55HZ
Amps: Alpine MRV340 50WX4 running the Dyns and JL500/1 on the IDQ12
The system sounds good! making kinda kick panels in the read door works well and leaves most of the sound stage in the front. It's almost transparent. Given the limitations of the factory head unit. Its a good way to get solid 50-100 HZ in the caben w/o making boom from the sub. The sub sounds much better this way!!!
My question is: Am I underpowered on the Dynes. Some highend stores are bugging me to try more power on them (suprise) ... "they need at least 80W to really sing"....
Is this true? Any recomended amps? Alpine makes an 80X4 version? How about the JL300/4? McIntosh??? Ahhhhh Need some suggestions from people not pimping equipment...
I could get another MRV340 and bridge them both (150WX4) but what about distortion?
Thanks
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fast400,
The Dyns eat up power fairly easily. The most I've heard of was 200 wpc per midwoofer and 100 wpc per tweeter. You can bridge channels on the Alpine amps, but the distortion goes WAY up. The only Mc amp that I know of would be the MC440, 431 or the 4000M. They can be configured for 100 wpc (or in the case of the 4000, 200 to 300 wpc) while still retaining the 0.005% distortion throughout the entire band, at below rated power.
Not too surprised that the shop is trying to sell you another amp. But, in this case, they're right. Still, 50wpc is nothing to sneeze at...![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Percy
The Dyns eat up power fairly easily. The most I've heard of was 200 wpc per midwoofer and 100 wpc per tweeter. You can bridge channels on the Alpine amps, but the distortion goes WAY up. The only Mc amp that I know of would be the MC440, 431 or the 4000M. They can be configured for 100 wpc (or in the case of the 4000, 200 to 300 wpc) while still retaining the 0.005% distortion throughout the entire band, at below rated power.
Not too surprised that the shop is trying to sell you another amp. But, in this case, they're right. Still, 50wpc is nothing to sneeze at...
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Percy
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i have the mc 440m and i think it does the job just fine.. DEF not bass booming but very nice sounding all around. 4x50 and 2 x 100... i am running my whole system with it. standard 7 speaker system.
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Had the Alpine amps before (MRVF300 and MRVF400/, both of V12 fame) and thought they were good. The very first MRVF300 that I purchased had two channels blown, out of the box. That's when I went for the F400 as an upgrade. About a week later I gave my F400 away (for partial trade on a Vel sub) and installed McIntosh. It's been like that ever since. ![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
90+ percent of all the amps out there will produce more distortion when bridged. Only the Mc amp (and possibly others) can still pull off the extremely low distortion, even when bridged.
I have no experience with the JL amps!
Percy
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90+ percent of all the amps out there will produce more distortion when bridged. Only the Mc amp (and possibly others) can still pull off the extremely low distortion, even when bridged.
I have no experience with the JL amps!
Percy
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Percy / Fast400 et al..
I'm also following this thread with great interest because I'm roughly in the same boat. Dyn 240 up front 160 in rear, JL 10W3 in rear. My Dynaudios sound great, the sub needs some help... not sure if the problem is just power or also has some install & setup issues. I DO wonder how much better the dyns would sound with a better / stronger amp.
I've currently got the Alpine MRV-F357 5 channel amp. Still struggle with which is the power rating I should quote... MVR 357 (mine) specs say:
• Max Power (EIAJ) 90Wx4+300W (4 ohm Stereo) 240Wx2+300W (Bridged 4ohm; )
• RMS Continuous Power (Watt) at 12.0V 4ohm; Stereo (0.08% THD) 30Wx4+(0.3% THD) 100x1 2ohm; Stereo (0.3% THD) 40x4 Bridged 4ohm; (0.3% THD) 80x2+(0.3% THD) 100x1
• 14.4V RMS Continuous Power 4ohm; Stereo (0.08% THD) 50Wx4+150x1 2ohm; Stereo (0.3% THD) 60x4 Bridged 4 - (0.3% THD) 120x2+150x1
I think 50 x4 and 150 x1. Roughly the same on the Front channels as fast400, right? OR is it the 30x4?
EDIT MVR-340 specs
• Max Power (EIAJ) 140Wx2 (4ohm; Stereo) 400Wx1 (Bridged 4ohm; )
• 12V RMS Continuous Power 4ohm; Stereo (0.08% THD) 40Wx2 2ohm; Stereo (0.3% THD) 75x2 Bridged 4ohm; (0.3% THD) 150x1
•14.4V RMS Continuous Power 4ohm; Stereo (0.08% THD) 60Wx2 2ohm; Stereo (0.3% THD) 100x2 Bridged 4ohm; (0.3% THD) 200x1
It turns up as loud as I want and is still clear. No clipping or distorting (except for the sub).
I'm toying with getting either a decent 4 channel amp + a bigger sub amp OR a decent 4 channel amp just to drive the front, and also a strong 3 way for the rear/sub (or 2 channel + sep sub amp).
Thoughts on that combo (& brands, same as fast400) OR reusing the Alpine in the mix given the bridged specs above?
I'm also following this thread with great interest because I'm roughly in the same boat. Dyn 240 up front 160 in rear, JL 10W3 in rear. My Dynaudios sound great, the sub needs some help... not sure if the problem is just power or also has some install & setup issues. I DO wonder how much better the dyns would sound with a better / stronger amp.
I've currently got the Alpine MRV-F357 5 channel amp. Still struggle with which is the power rating I should quote... MVR 357 (mine) specs say:
• Max Power (EIAJ) 90Wx4+300W (4 ohm Stereo) 240Wx2+300W (Bridged 4ohm; )
• RMS Continuous Power (Watt) at 12.0V 4ohm; Stereo (0.08% THD) 30Wx4+(0.3% THD) 100x1 2ohm; Stereo (0.3% THD) 40x4 Bridged 4ohm; (0.3% THD) 80x2+(0.3% THD) 100x1
• 14.4V RMS Continuous Power 4ohm; Stereo (0.08% THD) 50Wx4+150x1 2ohm; Stereo (0.3% THD) 60x4 Bridged 4 - (0.3% THD) 120x2+150x1
I think 50 x4 and 150 x1. Roughly the same on the Front channels as fast400, right? OR is it the 30x4?
EDIT MVR-340 specs
• Max Power (EIAJ) 140Wx2 (4ohm; Stereo) 400Wx1 (Bridged 4ohm; )
• 12V RMS Continuous Power 4ohm; Stereo (0.08% THD) 40Wx2 2ohm; Stereo (0.3% THD) 75x2 Bridged 4ohm; (0.3% THD) 150x1
•14.4V RMS Continuous Power 4ohm; Stereo (0.08% THD) 60Wx2 2ohm; Stereo (0.3% THD) 100x2 Bridged 4ohm; (0.3% THD) 200x1
It turns up as loud as I want and is still clear. No clipping or distorting (except for the sub).
I'm toying with getting either a decent 4 channel amp + a bigger sub amp OR a decent 4 channel amp just to drive the front, and also a strong 3 way for the rear/sub (or 2 channel + sep sub amp).
Thoughts on that combo (& brands, same as fast400) OR reusing the Alpine in the mix given the bridged specs above?
Last edited by DaveGS4; 05-29-03 at 07:45 PM.
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If you listen with the car not running, then it's 30 watts per channel...you REALLY need more power than that! Now if the car is running then it jumps up to 50 wpc. If you can place more channels on the front staging, then it would improve quite a bit, imo.
Percy
Percy
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Dave...
Im running the IDQ12 on the JL500/1. It kicks the snot out of it.
Are you running the factory head unit? If you are try my trick of running the 160s off the sub signal - it really cleaned up my sub crossing it at around 50-60 HZ..
Im running the IDQ12 on the JL500/1. It kicks the snot out of it.
Are you running the factory head unit? If you are try my trick of running the 160s off the sub signal - it really cleaned up my sub crossing it at around 50-60 HZ..
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percy,
i have an alpine HU and the highest volume is 35. i go up to 20. does that help? def not ear splitting volumes. u thikn i should bridged the fronts and just have no rears? hmmm never thought of that one.
thanks again.
i have an alpine HU and the highest volume is 35. i go up to 20. does that help? def not ear splitting volumes. u thikn i should bridged the fronts and just have no rears? hmmm never thought of that one.
thanks again.
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percy,
once again thanks for the advice. dont yell or make fun.. BUT i have quartz in the rear (FREE.. how could i pass that up!) and i do have access to a FREE alpine amp.. do u think i really need a good amp for the rears concidering they r just fillers? thanks again!
dynas in the front
once again thanks for the advice. dont yell or make fun.. BUT i have quartz in the rear (FREE.. how could i pass that up!) and i do have access to a FREE alpine amp.. do u think i really need a good amp for the rears concidering they r just fillers? thanks again!
dynas in the front