When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Greetings everyone. I'm trying to find the BEST connections into the factory ML amp that will give me the correct signal for my aftermarket amplifier and speakers. The install shop that designed the system never did make the correct speaker line connections and I'm losing bass in the components. I'm planning on undoing their work to get it sounding better. A few notes: The only factory speaker that remains is the center channel. The door speakers, both front and rear, have been replaced with aftermarket components. The subwoofer is a JL Audio H.O. Wedge in a ported box in the trunk. I have a AudioControl line output converter (LC8i) that can input speaker-level leads from the factory amp, sum select signals, and output to a single pair of RCAs. The aftermarket amp is a JL Audio HD900/5, 5 channel amplifier.
My goal is to get a full range signal to the door speakers and low frequency to the sub. I tried to summarize how I THINK the system connections should look on the below image. I'm just not sure this is correct, not only from the factory amp connections, but also for the LOC summing and output.
Considering putting in a RCA Y adapter at the LOC so I can feed a summed signal to the JL amp on the front and rear channel, then have the sub fed by the dedicated sub RCA. This option kills the fader controls at the factory head unit. But, it will allow me to adjust the front and rear at the JL amp. I'm not just finding any other way to get a full signal to the components without adding another LOC.
Looking for guidance or experienced installers that might suggest the best, or even the correct way to got this setup.
Curious if you ever got anywhere on this. I loathe this system and wanted to do something similar.
I can't believe nobody has provided any input into this question... Regardless, here is what I learned and did.
1. The original installed solution took the factory mid-highs signal and fed the front to the fronts using summing (part of the AudioControl capability), and the factory rears only received the high frequency signal (no summing). The factory sub signal was fed into the sub amplifier. Here is the problem with this setup, the factory mid-high signals are missing the lower frequencies. I think 80hz and lower is filtered out. So, the aftermarket components (ImageDynamics CTX65cs) were not generating much bass at all. Of course, the other problem was the rear signal being fed to the aftermarket components only delivered high frequencies. The positive thing, the fader worked.
2. I followed the above diagram, with one exception. I sent the sub frequency (summed) to the components (front and rear), giving a full range signal to the amp. Using the filtering dials on the amp, i adjusted the filter so that very low frequencies are removed. I think i filtered everything below 50-60hz. I sent the same signal from the front to the rear, so that I have full range signals to all the door speakers. The bass now sounds much much better. After making this change, I don't really think I even need the 10" JL Sub anymore. Granted, the sub has huge impact on low, mirror shaking sounds, but for normal listening, this setup is great.
I'll consider doing a YT video of my setup and walk through the settings and wiring. The only drawback with my config is that fader control at the headunit is not able to be used. I can only adjust fade at the amp. If I had another $250 to spend on this system, I'm sure adding another AudioControl Line output controller would allow me to have fade, but it's not worth the $ and additional setup time.
I can't believe nobody has provided any input into this question... Regardless, here is what I learned and did.
1. The original installed solution took the factory mid-highs signal and fed the front to the fronts using summing (part of the AudioControl capability), and the factory rears only received the high frequency signal (no summing). The factory sub signal was fed into the sub amplifier. Here is the problem with this setup, the factory mid-high signals are missing the lower frequencies. I think 80hz and lower is filtered out. So, the aftermarket components (ImageDynamics CTX65cs) were not generating much bass at all. Of course, the other problem was the rear signal being fed to the aftermarket components only delivered high frequencies. The positive thing, the fader worked.
2. I followed the above diagram, with one exception. I sent the sub frequency (summed) to the components (front and rear), giving a full range signal to the amp. Using the filtering dials on the amp, i adjusted the filter so that very low frequencies are removed. I think i filtered everything below 50-60hz. I sent the same signal from the front to the rear, so that I have full range signals to all the door speakers. The bass now sounds much much better. After making this change, I don't really think I even need the 10" JL Sub anymore. Granted, the sub has huge impact on low, mirror shaking sounds, but for normal listening, this setup is great.
I'll consider doing a YT video of my setup and walk through the settings and wiring. The only drawback with my config is that fader control at the headunit is not able to be used. I can only adjust fade at the amp. If I had another $250 to spend on this system, I'm sure adding another AudioControl Line output controller would allow me to have fade, but it's not worth the $ and additional setup time.
Cheers.
Would be very interested in seeing your set up and any details you could provide in a uTube vid. Love the ISF, but such a weak ML system for a ballzy V8.
Bump. Silly question, but which harness of the 4 in the ML sub is being tapped into? Which one is the output harness? For reference, 1 would be the harness closest to the front of the car, and 4 furthest back...
11-17-18, 08:14 AM
2011 ISF Amp Wiring Guide for Mark Levinson Amp
