SilverLexo

I was wondering if I could get some feedback from members with aftermarket stereos.

Does mounting a sub in the stock location with an enclosure built beneath it sound good (I'd never run a free air sub)?

Or does a good old fashioned sealed, fiberglass box (firing to the rear) just kick @ss over trying to use the stock mount?

DaveGS4

iTrader: (2)

Silverlexo,

I'm moving your post to the Lexus Electronics forum, which is the appropriate spot for this type of question

SilverLexo

Thanks...now I found all the stereo questions.

So I found this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...light=free+air

But really...in comparison the the W6's (v2) or even the W3's, the JL IB can't possibly sound nearly as good (any testaments?) Besides I don't think JL even makes them anymore.

Couldn't find the Velodyne 1 1/2 years ago, I'm sure I'm not finding one now.

Is the new IDMAX 10 (v3) worth getting?

I want my system to kick @ss, am I better off fiberglassing 2 12W6's, the free air sub, or another suggestion.

For power, I'm thinking the JL500x1 (I get them cheap).

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

IDMAX 10 or 12 is an awesome sub. 500/1 will drive either nicely. I'd put the sub in an enclosure - sealed if you're really into SQ, ported if you want more punchy output for dance or rap.
The rear deck sheet metal is very thin and bendable, the IDMAX is very heavy. Watch out if you decide to use the stock location....

SilverLexo

Thanks...that's the kind of feedback I was looking for.

I know one of the main sound guys on this forum (Percy, I think) has an open air setup, and to be honest, it sounds like the easiest way to go (no box means a HUGE savings, especially when you're looking at fiberglass). But of all the systems I've ever heard, not one has been an open air sub, so I can't really compare it to something.

When it comes to systems, I prefer a sealed box. I am into SQ, not SPL. Bandpass boxes really suck, and I've heard maybe a handful of ported boxes that were actually ported correctly to make a great sound. I could honestly care less how many decibles I can generate, but at the same time I enjoy something that really thumps.

Anyone out there with an open air setup that can vouche for serious bass?

LexLS

I have a 10" in a sealed box I made. The box is mounted to the rear deck, here's the pic. Here's how I mounted it. It's on there SOLID. Anyway, I think it sounds pretty good, and it's loud, even though the sound is only transmitted through the old stock sub hole. Go with a sealed box if you're into SQ.

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

You're going to get the best SQ by firing thru the stock hole, because you'll have fewer peaks and valleys from the trunk geometry, and fewer body resonances if you use an enclosure.
Building a box is not very expensive (unless you do fiberglass as you say). It is somewhat labor intensive, but can be done pretty cheaply if doing it yourself. Attaching it to the deck is no big deal if the box is not too large (unlike mine, which is a beast). It will pay off in sound quality.
For SQ for music like jazz, classical, etc. yeah, bandpass boxes really suck, there's no way to get a flat response. But for dance and rap, etc, they can provide punchy bass that mimics the sound of the bass in a nightclub. After all, most of the bass cabinets in a nightclub ARE bandpass or ported boxes.

RON430

The great debate continues. I think if you are really serious in this, some type of enclosure is the way to go. While I am definitely SQ oriented, I am probably just not as serious as most of the people here. I have a Dynaudio MW180 and was waiting for more time and the posted input on the MW190 was not that spectacular free air so I have kept my eyes open for a possible high quality free air sub, which alone is darned difficult to find. I just got a Soundstream Exact 10 inch sub (actually had it recommended by a friend who has one mounted free air in his bimmer and knows of at least one other free air in a bimmer mount and both guys are happy) and am going to try it out but not very quickly, I have enough miles on now to not be so concerned about warranty so I will add a mono amp for the sub and then get into it. The Soundstream also appears to be a quality piece like the dyn but it is significantly beefier, have to see how it turns out.

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

Hi Ron:
Interesting sub. Dual 1-ohm voice coils, as the spec on the web says??? I assume they are meant to be placed in series (or maybe the sub is permanently wired that way?) to yield 2 ohms? Or was that a misprint? RMS power is 400 watts, and xmax is about 1/2". Doesn't appear to be very efficient, but many SQ subs aren't. Please let us know how it sounds when you get it installed.

One thing I forgot to mention about using the IDMAX 10" in the stock sub location (mounted thru/above the deck, as the stock woofer is) is that the high excursion of the IDMAX (close to 1 inch, one-way) may interfere with the deck cover panel. I did not have this problem with the IDMAX 12 because I suspended the box sufficiently below the bottom of the deck to allow JUST enough clearance.

RON430

Howdy, just got the sub yesterday and only opened it up far enough to make sure it didn't get bashed in shipping and get the instructions out. Not sure how the voice coils are wired up but I am pretty sure it only has one set of inputs and it says it is a 4 ohm sub so things should be simple from that standpoint. Just hard to find much of anything that says IB is OK. Now, I have to spend some time with THE BOOK for running the wires to the trunk and figure out which amp to get, actually leaning toward one of the Soundstream amps as well. As I recall, the remote turn on from THE BOOK is not easy to get at, is there an easier one to access?

PS I did get recommendations from two guys with bimmers who got this sub and mounted it free air. Unfortunately, bimmers come with such trashy radios (really can't call it a sound system) that I wonder if they know what a good system sounds like. For that matter, I wonder if I know what a good system sounds like? Sure like the dyns up front though.

SilverLexo

I was thinking that your sub was mounted on top of the rear deck...but I guess with a sealed box, it would be damn near impossible, or too much work to try. Is there a bit of open space between the sub and rear deck? Do you have anything "wrapped" around the box so that the sub only fires up?

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

The box sits about 1 inch below the deck surface. While I originally planned to seal the box to the underside of the surface using styrofoam or other foam, I haven't gotten around to that yet, mainly because I've found that it's not really necessary. There's just not enough air going sideways in that 1 inch of space - most, if not all, of it goes up thru the hole. I have pics posted in the Member Galleries if you want to see the box - just search for me.
However, for SQ, as you drop the box further and further below the deck, esp if you sit it on the floor of the trunk, there becomes more of a need to duct the woofer output into the stock hole, using a 'chimney'-like arrangement. If you're doing SPL with less regard for SQ, especially with one or two JLW7's, the woofers will vibrate *everything* if you put the box on the trunk floor, creating body resonances all over the place, and building a chimney is unnecessary/pointless. Just for perspective.

retrodrive

I have a couple of IDMAXes mounted IB on my rear deck. If you are anywhere near San Diego you are always welcome to come by for a listen.
A few things you might want to consider. The rear deck is pretty weak and needs reinforcement. Not only you will be loosing a lot of output if the deck moves with the excursion of the sub, but you also will loose precision. When i am talking about reinforcement, I am talking about going to any welding shop and asking them to do the work on your rear deck. Sounddeadening does not help much with that kind of problem. Another thing is that IDMAX is pretty large woofer. In order to drop it in a hole where your stock sub used to be, you would require to remove the rear window. The way around it is making a baffle and mounting it underneath the rear deck. Not only it will improve the rigidity of the rear deck but also it will make it easier to service/change/upgrade.

SilverLexo

Wait a minute...you have to 2 IDMAXes mounted on the rear deck, welded reinforcements, and custom holes fabed into the rear deck?
Ok this I've got to see, and hear. I live in San Clemente, so SD is not that far off, besides I'm always down there anyway.

Check your PM.
Thanks.

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

Retro, how the he!! do you hold your rear windshield in without blowing it to the moon???!!!
I only have one MAX facing upwards, and I'm constantly nervous about damaging the rear windshield...