Taka

my amp is coming next week, it is AMPLE AUDIO EXONIC 270:
360 W MAX Bridgeable 2 Channel Amplifier
- 90 W RMS x 2 (4 ohm)
- 145 W RMS x 2 (2 ohm)
- 270 W RMS x 1 (4 ohm) Bridged
- Double Sided Glass Epoxy P.C.B.
- RCA Inputs and Outputs
- Lowpass Crossover Variable 30-250Hz
- Highpass Crossover Variable 50-1KHz
- MOSFET Power Supply
- Bare Wire Set Screw Terminal Block
- 2 ohms Stable
- THD 0.02%
- S/N 95dB
- Ch/Sp 75dB
- 8.8" L x 2" H x 12.7" W
- Frequency Response 10-35,000 Hz
- Variable Bass Boost 0-12dB at 45Hz
- Remote Control

and the sub I would be using is Infinity 1030w: (data from http://www.sounddomain.com)
Size: 10 inch
Rec. Sealed Box Dims: 0.75 cu.ft.
Rec. Ported Box Dims: 1.75 cu.ft.
Free Air Usage: yes
Recommended Enclosure Type: Sealed, Ported
Sensitivity: 90 dB
Frequency Response: 25-250 Hz
Recommended RMS Power: 250W
Peak Power Handling: 1000W
Impedance: 4 ohms
Mounting Depth (inches): 5 ½ (is it too deep compare to the factory sub?? is it gonna hit the tank?)

I installed mb quart for front door but never installed sub and amp before. always wanted to do this. however I have no idea what else I need & how to install the cables . Should I just get the amplifier wiring installation kit or get those cables separetely?
Do i need like RCA conversion kit (which I have no clue what it is at this moment..) ?
am I getting power directly from the battery or I can just tap the power line from the facotry 5channel amp (btw I have Nak system with cd-player).?
oh yeah one thing I'm worried about my battery. I just changed to new battery. I didn't get Optima series but Auto zone $50, which is working great for now but with the new sub and amp setting, do I need to upgrade my battery to like Optima?
I dont want to ask too much questions now but how does the amp remote control work? isn't it different from the facotry bass less control?

anyways, at least I would like to get some information what other accessories I need to set up the Sub/Amp to my system and where I should get it.



thanks for your help!

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

If you have never done an amp install, DON'T. installation techniques like "clean" frame grounds, firewall, and routing wires to avoid induction are just a few factors a professional installer knows how to do. I wouldn't recommend a shadetree install if you can help it.

You can get more info at www.the12volt.com if you are stuck on doing the install yourself. you'll need an rca convertor and an amp kit with rca's.

Taka

I think I can do installation myself. I'll try. anyways I got the amp delivered already and almost done drawing how I'm gonna wire the cables. and I have some questions:

1. I'll post the picture of my amp but it doesn't have line level inputs (I think).. only RCA inputs. I have a Nakamichi system and 933005spd said somwhere that I dont need a line out converter..I can use the FRONT LEFT OUTPUT(A6 in the harness) + SIGNAL GROUND(A12) and I guess FRONT RIGHT OUTPUT from HU to make RCA connection??? or should I just get LOC like AudioLink PowerLink II and simply connect to my AMP? I'm still confused about this. I thought the wires coming out of the HU is low level. The converters are meant to convert your factory speaker wires into Low Voltage outputs right? if I use the LOC, is it the same quality? or you can use this LOC as RCA adapor?

2. My amp comes with the remote bass control (it's like phone jack). what’s gonna happen if I install the remote bass control that came with sub. Can I still use the factory bass controller? What if I wanna use the factory bass controller on the HU? how can I wire?

3. how to find out how much current it draws from new amp? I'm planning to use 60A fuse by the battery but larger amp fuse is safer or i can use like smaller 30A?

4. finally, I haven't purchased the amp wiring kit yet but where should I get it from? does it matter non-name brand or brand name brand? else I'm gonna just get 4Guage kit from local walmart something. Does the kit come with the battery terminator? oh yeah for the speaker cable, I have the leftover monster XP cable for my home threater (it doesn't mention what size it is) but can I use this or car speaker cable is different from home audio speaker cable?

those are the questions I have for now. sorry if this is basic questions.

Taka

and the other side of the amp.

jeremyp111

I'll try to help you out as I just completed my installation (I've done a few in my day). Hey, first of all I give you a high five for having the drive to try this yourself, but before you do I would do a search or a few searches and print out the information you need. onelasttry is right about the experience factor being helpful in preventing noise or getting rid of noise if present. This ONLY comes from experience.

OK, first of all, to answer your first question, you will need an LOC to connect that amp to power a sub. Just connect the + & - from the factory sub into the LOC and run a very good quality RCA from the LOC to your amp. Don't skim on quality here. Also be very careful to run the RCA away from power wires.

Now, second question. The bass control **** that comes with your amp will control the bass output of the amp only which will allow you to use the bass control of the HU seperately. You can use the bass control on the HU to control the bass output of the front and rear speakers and use the bass control **** on the sub amp to control the amount of bass your sub puts out. You don't have to do any special wiring to install this, just plug it into the amp and run it to a location where you want it for easy access.

Buy an amp wiring kit and a distribution block and get it from Crutchfield when you place the order for the Audiolink Power link II. I would run a 4g power lead into the vehicle (in case you want to add on later) into the distribution block and run 8g to the amp. For the ground, make sure you have a very good ground connection by grinding away any paint and use a good quality ring terminal.

Buy some good quality speaker cable to run from the amp to the speaker. 12g is fine, no smaller. Don't use wire for home theaters, get car audio stuff. email me with any questions, jeremyp111@hotmail.com. Lucky for you this stuff is still fresh in my mind.

Oh, and by the way, my system now kicks ***! and no noise!

JP

Taka

hey jeremyp111, thanks for your reply. most of things are clear now. One question, do I need a distribution block? I'm just running 1 amp so i'm not sure if I really need a distribution block for my current setup.

jeremyp111

No, you don't. You could run 8g wire from the battery straight to your amp and a 8g ground to the chassis. I installed 4g into the vehicle and ran 8g to each amp. I recommended this setup just in case you decide to add another amp in the future. Because if you do, then you will be replacing the 8g wire. If you think you may want to add another amp in the future then it's wise to install the 4g wire now and use a distribution block to connect 8g to the amp.


JP

Taka

I got the cables and everything but found out my sub doesn't fit in the stock hole. It hits gas tank so I need to make the spacer to increase the its depth. also I can't remove the stock mounting bracket from the factory sub (like this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=77751). He has 8" sub but I'm not sure if you can actually remove the mounting bracket from 10" sub. Does anyone know if it's possible? otherwise I need like 2" spacer?? I wanna try the stock location before I actually decide if I should build the box.

I also need to build the amp holder but how much is the MDF and where can I get it? (homedepot? do they cut it for you?)

onelasttry, thanks for your recommendation on Ample Audio amp. I didn't get the manual from the seller but I contacted the Ample Audio and I got the manual next day for free.

oh yea I got the good deal on Audiolink. gotta love Crutchfield

jeremyp111

You can get MDF pretty cheap at Home Depot. Make yourself a spacer by cutting a round circle in a sheet of MDF and make another using the first one as a template. This way you will have 2 circles that are exactly the same. Use wood glue or carpenters glue to bond them together. You may need a third if 2 don't give you the space that you need. If you can't get the stock mounting bracket off the sub, then you can get some bendable metal straps that have precut holes in them to make your own. Just screw them into the MDF and into the metal frame of the car. Also use the MDF to make yourself an amp mount.

post your results.

JP

Taka

it's slow process but I made an amp rack and wired them up(roughly) to see if my amp is working today.
the result was unfortunately NO and wondering if my amp is dead (I got it from an acution used).

this was my setting:
- I got (+) and (-) from the stock sub input, that goes to LOC and then AMP input.
- got the remote from the stock amp sub output. (I made sure it is 12v on and 0v off)
- got the power (12v) from the battery with 4g (and 80a fuse)
- connect the ground.

I tried to see if the power light on the amp would turn on but it didn't. I did measure the voltage on the power cable connection (to the amp) and it showed 12v. (and no sound from the sub)

is there any way to check if the amp is working or dead? does it usually turn on the power light if I just connect the power cable and ground on the amp? the fuse in the amp is not dead.

some other question: Nak amp has the stock sub amp build in but do I need to disconnect or just leave it?

thanks for your help again !

ikankoi

"...- got the remote from the stock amp sub output. (I made sure it is 12v on and 0v off)...'
are you trying to hook your ample remote to nak sub output? (the one that goes to stock sub). if you are, you are wrong then.

check your remote lead cable using the voltmeter: it should give you constant +12v ONLY when you turn on your system.


to check your amp: connect the ample REMOTE input from POWER (+) using jumper cable. it will give constant 12v supply to remote and it should turn on your amp light, assuming your amp is working.

to test the signal: use portable source like a cd palyer, get a headphone-plug-in-to-RCA-converter cable, plug it to the cd palyer and the RCA to the ample RCA input. play some cd than you shuld getting your sub working.


"..- I got (+) and (-) from the stock sub input, that goes to LOC and then AMP input..."
i dont really understand waht you mean by this. are you connecting RCA? im not familiar with nak amp but i dont think it has RCA input.

would be best if you use LLC. hook nak amp sub output to LLC input, then hook LL RCA output to asmple RCA input. it should give you the music signal. I beleive some LLC can supply remote output, so you can hook your ample remote from the LLC output.

hope it helps

Taka

ikankoi, thanks for your help.
I just test the amp by connecting the ample REMOTE input from POWER (+) using jumper cable. IT"S WORKING!! so it was just my bad set up yesterday. I'll do set them up again.

yea I got the REMOTE from I think it is a power anntena.

thanks!

Taka

ok, thanks for your help guys, it's almost done. (it looks ugly now)
and Perry you are awesome

I have some questions again. I'm supposed to make 0.75 cu.ft. box but after I measured the volume with water, I got only 0.6 cu.ft. and I read somewhere that I can increase the volume about 25% with poly-fill stuffing (0.6 x 1.25 = 0.75). look at the 2nd picture, I wasn't sure how much I need to put the poly-full. I think I put them inside about 2-3 oz (I purchased 20oz)..is it enough or add more?

As I test overall, it sounds nice but I think I need to adjust the amp a little. any suggestion how to adjust the gain, crossover (on the amp) and bass boost? I have some testing tone CDs (like 80hz, 40hz etc..) but I'm not sure how to use them.

Where can I get the same color carpet/cloth for this speaker? any good price?

THANKS ALOT!!

PERRYinLA

For those of us that appreciate function over form, that enclosure does not look ugly at all! Plus, once it is covered with grey carpeting material, it will blend into the sides of the trunk and disappear (until you turn up the volume, that is)! One thing that will help (and you may already be planning to do this) is gluing/screwing a "fin" that will cover up the gap above the top of the enclosure. You can clearly see the fin I used in the photo below.

I recall seeing generic grey carpeting material at Home Depot, and www.partsexpress.com may have something suitable, too- see part numbers 260-765, 261-750 and 261-700.

Hopefully, someone else will soon chime in with answers to your poly-fill and amp-tuning questions, but if not, remember that www.sounddomain.com has a very busy forum where such issues are endlessly discussed.

You are finishing up just in time- here comes winter!

Taka

since I couldn't find the carpet at local homedepot, I ordered from www.partsexpress.com. Thanks for the part number, Perry. finally finished up my sub project.

what do you think? should I cover with speaker grill or just leave as is right now.

Perry one question, do you have the stock sub on the rear deck? I removed mine but I hear lots of outside noise since there's a hole now. so I'm thinking put it back in there. what's gonna happen if I use 2 subs? am I getting more bass? now I wanna try 12" sub :-p