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From my understanding, please correct me if i'm wrong, we need 3 metra adapters which plugs into the amp's harness. From those 3 adapters, I need to use extended speaker/wire cables to connect from the smaller metra harness (purple, green, grey, etc) for my speakers, but where do the other end of the extended cable go to? does that get tapped into the android harness wires speakers?
What about the harness that is in the back of the original stereo? do I leave that hanging? i feel like i'm missing a middle harness.
Please help or provide pics. My goal is just to get my speakers to work, I don't care about the amp or the subwoofer. I skipped phase 1 and jumped to phase 2.
My car is a 2001 Lexus ES300.
Thanks in advance.
Had you installed your new head unit as most do (what I called "Phase 1" and used as the starting point for my amp bypass instructions), you would already have your new head unit wired in using the Metra 70-8113 - receiving power and sending amp turn-on signals via the factory wire bundle that runs between the HU and factory amp.
This answers your second question: the plug that was connected to the original stereo is now connected to your 70-8113 harness, which in turn is wired up to your new HU's harness. Because the factory setup supplied 12v power to the head unit through the amp via the wire bundle running to the HU and now plugged into your 70-8113, I outlined how to restore that power to the HU when the factory amp is bypassed.
Because a phase 1 install using the 70-8113 harness assumes RCA lineouts from your new HU going to the factory amp, your HU's high-level speaker outputs would remain unused (and therefore ready to be connected to the factory speaker wiring via the two plugs of the 70-1761 harness).
First, @TomSea999, I'm glad that you've jumped into this thread to acknowledge where it's useful, share your experience and help others. Thanks!
BTW, please give us an update... I just read that you were up to your elbows in a "phase 2 & 3" project 3-4 weeks ago, so we're all wondering how you're enjoying your new amp :-).
Originally Posted by TomSea999
Yes and yes. You need 2 harnesses (one has 2 plugs) that will connect to the 3 bundles that come out of the old amplifier. These two harnesses supply power to your new stereo, and route the new head-unit-powered speaker wires back to your new speakers. 1761 connects to 8112 by connecting red, yellow, and black (constant power, switched power, and ground) and these all connect to the equivalent wires coming out of your new stereo.
Yeah, I guess people face a wiring choice for supplying power to a new aftermarket Head Unit if going straight from Phase 0 (stock system) to Phase 2 or 3 (factory amp bypassed). What I called "phase 1", and used as the starting point for all my amp bypass instructions, includes an aftermarket head unit installed using a Metra 70-8112 (or a Metra 70-8113 harness in the case of @plhuong's '2001 ES300)...
One could simply abandon that factory wire bundle running between the stock amp and head unit (along with the "phase 1" 70-811? harness to the aftermarket HU) and run power directly from the 70-1761 behind the glovebox to the new aftermarket HU. In this case you wouldn't need the 2nd 70-8112 harness behind the glovebox either, but you would need more wire segments for running power to the new HU (and enough confidence to strike out on your own :-)
Again, Special thanks to this super helpful thread which I really wished I had found before trying Phase 1 and suffering through feedback for 4 months. Saved me endless hours of heartache and gave me the courage and confidence to tackle this project myself.
The 5 channel Soundstream amp fits well in the space left by the CD changer behind the glove box, sitting on the sort-of-shelf of the glovebox frame. There is a great grounding bolt to the unibody frame which is immediately to the right of the space, and there is a wire bundle passing through the firewall with plenty of space behind where the old amplifier was bolted to the car. Carefully punch the boot under the hood and make sure it is well sealed one you have the amp wired. Can’t miss it. The Soundstream Nano 5.1 is well matched to the factory speakers and correctly powers the subwoofer, and is small enough to fit, and doesn’t run hot at all at the normal volumes that the stock speakers can handle.
The Pioneer Car Play head unit plus the Soundstream nano 5.1 sounds awesome. I had to add a wire to the harness so that the subwoofer signal was reaching the speaker (it is missing) but was able to rig it so that I didn’t have to cut into the Lexus wire harness.
Mid-way through my install I chose to bypass the existing wire bundle that went from the stock radio and the original amp, and I see now that my response above is confusing - I’ll edit when I get onto a laptop so I can better explain the two ways you can get to phase 2 (direct and through the existing harness).
I’ve done many installs on cars I have owned, and this one is one of the easiest. Don’t hesitate! Do it! You will be happy.
Again, Special thanks to this super helpful thread which I really wished I had found before trying Phase 1 and suffering through feedback for 4 months. Saved me endless hours of heartache and gave me the courage and confidence to tackle this project myself.
The 5 channel Soundstream amp fits well in the space left by the CD changer behind the glove box, sitting on the sort-of-shelf of the glovebox frame. There is a great grounding bolt to the unibody frame which is immediately to the right of the space, and there is a wire bundle passing through the firewall with plenty of space behind where the old amplifier was bolted to the car. Carefully punch the boot under the hood and make sure it is well sealed one you have the amp wired. Can’t miss it. The Soundstream Nano 5.1 is well matched to the factory speakers and correctly powers the subwoofer, and is small enough to fit, and doesn’t run hot at all at the normal volumes that the stock speakers can handle.
The Pioneer Car Play head unit plus the Soundstream nano 5.1 sounds awesome. I had to add a wire to the harness so that the subwoofer signal was reaching the speaker (it is missing) but was able to rig it so that I didn’t have to cut into the Lexus wire harness.
Very cool. Yet another story supporting the view that the best new speakers to buy is a new amp! Is Soundstream the Crutchfield house brand? I've heard good things.
Glad to hear you restored signal to your factory subwoofer as well. I think I noted the bummer that the 70-1761 harness doesn't include the pins/leads for the subwoofer, but it sounds like you overcame that annoyance correctly :-). I seem to recall that someone posted the frequency range and crossover point for the stock amp & speakers/subwoofer, but I bet you've got it sounding better than stock in any case.
Originally Posted by TomSea999
Mid-way through my install I chose to bypass the existing wire bundle that went from the stock radio and the original amp, and I see now that my response above is confusing - I’ll edit when I get onto a laptop so I can better explain the two ways you can get to phase 2 (direct and through the existing harness).
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Ah. In my write up I lament that I had cut off the (blue?) amplifier-on signal wire from the 70-8112 harness I used behind my glovebox - that I might want it for future use. Clearly that's no big deal as it's easily replaced :-). I gather you had this clean bundle of RCA cables and signal wires running between your HU and your new amp, and then these three little 12v leads to the head unit taking a weird detour through two metra harnesses and a factory wire bundle. Makes sense .
Very cool. Yet another story supporting the view that the best new speakers to buy is a new amp! Is Soundstream the Crutchfield house brand? I've heard good things.
Glad to hear you restored signal to your factory subwoofer as well. I think I noted the bummer that the 70-1761 harness doesn't include the pins/leads for the subwoofer, but it sounds like you overcame that annoyance correctly :-). I seem to recall that someone posted the frequency range and crossover point for the stock amp & speakers/subwoofer, but I bet you've got it sounding better than stock in any case.
Ah. In my write up I lament that I had cut off the (blue?) amplifier-on signal wire from the 70-8112 harness I used behind my glovebox - that I might want it for future use. Clearly that's no big deal as it's easily replaced :-). I gather you had this clean bundle of RCA cables and signal wires running between your HU and your new amp, and then these three little 12v leads to the head unit taking a wierd detour through two metra harnesses and a factory wire bundle. Makes sense .
Exactly. For those that want to go next-level, tracing the auto-dimming lead and getting that correctly wired would be pretty cool - in my phase 1, I was able to add a pin to the auto-dimming lead in my first Metra harness and it worked fine - no idea why it wasn't included in the original harness wiring - but when I went to this phase, I didn't wire it correctly and it no longer works. No matter - the Pioneer HU that I'm using has a timer that will turn the brightness on and off at two times every day. The sound that this combo produces is light years better than the original setup and the aftermarket-HU-stock-amp combo, and I chose it simply because it was small enough to fit in the space and could power all 5 channels. Out of the box it matches the stock subwoofer, and it adds just enough bottom end to sound amazing. It won't win any contests, but for those who just want a clear amplified signal at normal volumes, with the only visible alteration being the absence of a faceplate where the CD changer was in the glovebox, this is a great way to go.
Sony also makes a head-unit that includes an integrated amp that can power a subwoofer, but it requires you to power the front and rear left speakers, and front and rear right speakers off of two channels, and you lose the ability to fade from front to rear using their setup. This would be an option for someone who wants to use the stock subwoofer but doesn't want to tackle the hassle of installing an amp in the car. I would imagine that the power that this HU would require wiring direct to the battery, so you would still have to do that, so you might as well go with a separate amp.
The next project: quick struts. At 270k miles, I think the OEM struts are starting to get a little bit tired .
Hey guys, just a quick update, I was successfully able to bring back my sound to my speakers!! thanks so much for your help!! The only downfall to bypassing the amp is that I have to crank the volume all the way up :\
Phase 3 later on?
Hey guys, just a quick update, I was successfully able to bring back my sound to my speakers!! thanks so much for your help!! The only downfall to bypassing the amp is that I have to crank the volume all the way up :\
Phase 3 later on?
Yes. Adding an amplifer as @TomSea999 described would solve your volume issues.
My own aftermarket head unit is spec'd to 4 x 29W RMS @ 4oHms (more than most). This feels adequate when combined with a powered subwoofer, but it runs just a bit low on volume at certain times (with higher speed road noise & softer music selections that I wish I could hear more clearly with my old ears).
Since your head unit is being tasked with powering 4 speakers at full range, with no high-pass filter aimed at "off-loading" bass frequencies to a subwoofer on a separately-amplified channel, you'll likely wish for greater clarity at higher volumes from time to time :-).
Replacing an obsolete CD Changer with a new amp...
Originally Posted by TomSea999
Exactly. For those that want to go next-level, tracing the auto-dimming lead and getting that correctly wired would be pretty cool - in my phase 1, I was able to add a pin to the auto-dimming lead in my first Metra harness and it worked fine - no idea why it wasn't included in the original harness wiring - but when I went to this phase, I didn't wire it correctly and it no longer works. No matter - the Pioneer HU that I'm using has a timer that will turn the brightness on and off at two times every day.
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Yeah... apparently the wire that signals headlight status to the head unit joins that factory wire bundle somewhere in the middle. I always drive with my lights on, so... I never looked for it :-).
Originally Posted by TomSea999
The sound that this combo produces is light years better than the original setup and the aftermarket-HU-stock-amp combo, and I chose it simply because it was small enough to fit in the space and could power all 5 channels. Out of the box it matches the stock subwoofer, and it adds just enough bottom end to sound amazing. It won't win any contests, but for those who just want a clear amplified signal at normal volumes, with the only visible alteration being the absence of a faceplate where the CD changer was in the glovebox, this is a great way to go.
Good stuff. So, for others looking for a good 5-channel amp that fits behind their glovebox, please share your amp's model number.
I confess that my glovebox CD Changer remains untouched (disconnected and unused). Given that I've already installed a powered sub in the trunk, your report has me wondering about fitting a simple 4-channel compact amp in there.
Oh - I'd also be curious to see a picture of your open glovebox :-).
This is a great write up, thank you! However, does this work with the Nakamichi amp/sub system?
I went the same route with an ATOTO a6 and the Metra 70-8113, my main door speakers work fine but the tweeters and sub do not work, even with no HPF/LPF on the HU and cranking 60hz on the EQ. Will running my HU speaker wires out to the Metra 70-1761 and thus into the AMP solve this instead of using the RCA hookups from the Metra 70-8113 into the HU itself? Or am I misunderstanding and that is for the Bypass.
Any sort of help would be great. Have been using this site alot once I got my 2000 es300 plat.edit, I love this car.
This is a great write up, thank you! However, does this work with the Nakamichi amp/sub system?
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In the OP, I pointed out that this is about the Pioneer system, not the Nakamichi (since I don't have the Nakamichi system :-). Nonetheless, since your system calls for the same Metra 70-8113 amp integration harness as does the 2000 ES300 with the Pioneer system, it makes sense that the nakamichi amp would've been spec'd to use the same power and speaker wiring connectors... So, I googled for images of the Nakamichi amp found in your car: Credit to anonymous eBay seller for these images of the Nakamichi amp out of a 3ES... Apparently the Nakamichi amp option uses the same connectors as the Pioneer amp (as well as the Metra 70-1761 & 70-8112 harnesses - see OP). Given this, it feels safe to say that the amplifier bypass discussion in this thread applies to both the Pioneer and Nakamichi options.
Originally Posted by Cobalt
I went the same route with an ATOTO a6 and the Metra 70-8113, my main door speakers work fine but the tweeters and sub do not work, even with no HPF/LPF on the HU and cranking 60hz on the EQ. Will running my HU speaker wires out to the Metra 70-1761 and thus into the AMP solve this instead of using the RCA hookups from the Metra 70-8113 into the HU itself? Or am I misunderstanding and that is for the Bypass.
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You've got your ins and outs a bit crossed up in that paragraph, but suffice to say that the 70-1761 harness facilitates the bypass. Your problem is with the Nakamichi amp (not the way you're feeding it).
By the way, I'm pretty sure that the Nakamichi setup drives the same pioneer speakers and subwoofer found in all the other 3ES models. Your front door tweeters are fed from same front R/L channel as your front door woofers, so they'll be working when you get to "phase 2" (but your subwoofer will go silent).
By the way, I'm pretty sure that the Nakamichi setup drives the same pioneer speakers and subwoofer found in all the other 3ES models. Your front door tweeters are fed from same front R/L channel as your front door woofers, so they'll be working when you get to "phase 2" (but your subwoofer will go silent).
After alot of headaches, I actually got it working by ripping out the RCA from the Metra 70-8113 and running positive speaker HU outputs into the harness, while grounding out the negative outputs. Then Setting listening position -1 back so the RR/RL get a boost so they can pull the lower frequencies easier. So I got the aftermarket HU and stock Nakamichi amp/sub working! There is abit of a wooshing sound when no audio is playing but I can clean that up. I appreciate the reply.
When I go back in to better repin the Metra-8113 I will take some pictures and video of the working product to further help other
After alot of headaches, I actually got it working by ripping out the RCA from the Metra 70-8113 and running positive speaker HU outputs into the harness, while grounding out the negative outputs. Then Setting listening position -1 back so the RR/RL get a boost so they can pull the lower frequencies easier. So I got the aftermarket HU and stock Nakamichi amp/sub working! There is abit of a wooshing sound when no audio is playing but I can clean that up. I appreciate the reply.
OK then... I'm glad you've got it working in a way that you like and appreciate that you let us know!
Do keep an eye on your amp's operating temperature, as I suspect it's looking for less input voltage than you're sending it (and apparently it's looking for more voltage than your A6 pre-outs provided :-). That's the thing with factory amps - they're built to match the original head unit's output and that's usually about it. Hopefully you've gotten lucky for the long haul .
If or when you choose to bypass the Nakamichi amp behind the glovebox, please confirm my expectation that instructions in the OP apply just as they do for the Pioneer amp.
FWIW, I expect that the ATOTO A6 Pro's internal amp would noticeably outperform the Nakamichi when driving your door speakers directly. It would be cool if you tested that notion :-). If I recall, another A6 harness costs about $20 if you don't want to mess with what's working for you.
04-23-21, 11:12 AM
See Phase 1.
See phase 1 :-)
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Replacing an obsolete CD Changer with a new amp...
