angel lights...
#31
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Originally Posted by RMMGS4
LCA575 did atleast one Angel Eye upgrade on a GS that I am aware of. And for very active member of the forums BTW.
Forgot the name of his business and the website. Gotta wait till I get home from work to look it up.
Justin has been doing Angel eye and other headlight mods for the IS for quite a long time now.
He is a CL member. PM him .
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Forgot the name of his business and the website. Gotta wait till I get home from work to look it up.
Justin has been doing Angel eye and other headlight mods for the IS for quite a long time now.
He is a CL member. PM him .
#33
Keeper of the light
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Originally Posted by GTFM
ahhh got ya
i wonder if LLS could come up with something
he always playing with lights
ask him
i wonder if LLS could come up with something
he always playing with lights
ask him
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If you want CCFL though, Justin is the way to go from what I hear. A close friend has his IS done and he loves it, plus I saw it in person.... looks excellent.
#35
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This is probably the least expensive, easiest way to do AEs... This was done on a Tiburon but can been done on any car and in any color. First, you must order 2 5-foot EL Cable kits from beingseen.com (make sure to get 12v kits). The total cost for both, and shipping, should be around $55. Then you'll need four self drilling screws to mount the inverters. The inverters are little black boxes that the EL cable plugs into. You then wire the inverter to a 12v power source. I chose to remove the city lights, and use the connectors as the power source. That way, the AEs come on when the parking lights are on.
Once you have the headlight clear cover off, you need to drill holes to route the EL cable. Remove the grey bezel from the clear plastic cover. Remove the chrome cylinders from the grey bezel. (be careful about fingerprints on the chrome. They won't hurt it, but it looks crappy if you get fingerprints all over them!) NOTICE: **drill these holes BEFORE you paint, if you are going to paint your bezels!**
Here is where you should drill the holes:
This is what it will look like once you route it (without the chrome ring). NOTICE: The holes are staggered, so that the cable loop will overlap itself slightly. This eliminates a gap in the AE ring like most LED plastic ring jobs.
You have to get the cable inside the bezel opening and fit it around the chrome ring. This may require inserting/removing the chrome rings a few times. You have to get the length of the cable within the bezel, around the chrome ring, just the right length. Once you get the cable routed around the chrome rings, use a thin flat blade screwdriver to push it back into the gap. BE CAREFUL! The chrome will scratch off easily.
You will have to drill a pretty good size hole in the back of the headlight housing to route the connector for the EL cable, and power from the city light outside to the inverter. Using a little silicone sealer once you have everything wired up will be a good idea. The headlight unit should be sealed.
This is where I mounted the inverter. It was the best place to put it, because it will not hinder the reinstallation of the headlights into the car.
This is where I used the self drilling screws. I had to set the inverter as far back from the opening for the high beam bulb, so I could still get the cap on, and still access the bulb easily. I also used a drill to start the holes. The inverter has a wire coming off of it with a little switch. The switch will make the cable stay on, or blink. I left it in the ON position. Might incur legal trouble if you have it blinking.
You can see the black and green wire connector. This is what plugs into the city lights. I cut the connector off, and wired the power to the inverter from this. (the green wire is the +, the black is the -. On the inverter, the red is the + and the black is -). I soldered the wires and then used electrical tape to insulate. Run the power wire for the inverter INTO the hole you drilled in the housing, then out the plug hole where the city lights are. This way, the connection you make will be INSIDE the headlight assembly. If you want to keep your city lights, you should splice those wires.
Here's everything assembled. Note that you can't even really see the cable. That's one benefit of this method of Angel Eyes. You can't tell they're there. I use the oven method for reassembly. It gets the black goop stuff all sticky again. Squeeze the clear cover back on, heat it up, then take it out and SQUEEZE between your legs until it's all tight. Let cool. Reinstall in car. Enjoy.
and here's the end results:
Once you have the headlight clear cover off, you need to drill holes to route the EL cable. Remove the grey bezel from the clear plastic cover. Remove the chrome cylinders from the grey bezel. (be careful about fingerprints on the chrome. They won't hurt it, but it looks crappy if you get fingerprints all over them!) NOTICE: **drill these holes BEFORE you paint, if you are going to paint your bezels!**
Here is where you should drill the holes:
![](http://www.frayadjacent.com/pics/tiburon/Mods/headlights/routingELcable2.jpg)
This is what it will look like once you route it (without the chrome ring). NOTICE: The holes are staggered, so that the cable loop will overlap itself slightly. This eliminates a gap in the AE ring like most LED plastic ring jobs.
![](http://www.frayadjacent.com/pics/tiburon/Mods/headlights/routingELcable.jpg)
You have to get the cable inside the bezel opening and fit it around the chrome ring. This may require inserting/removing the chrome rings a few times. You have to get the length of the cable within the bezel, around the chrome ring, just the right length. Once you get the cable routed around the chrome rings, use a thin flat blade screwdriver to push it back into the gap. BE CAREFUL! The chrome will scratch off easily.
You will have to drill a pretty good size hole in the back of the headlight housing to route the connector for the EL cable, and power from the city light outside to the inverter. Using a little silicone sealer once you have everything wired up will be a good idea. The headlight unit should be sealed.
This is where I mounted the inverter. It was the best place to put it, because it will not hinder the reinstallation of the headlights into the car.
![](http://www.frayadjacent.com/pics/tiburon/Mods/headlights/inverter2.jpg)
This is where I used the self drilling screws. I had to set the inverter as far back from the opening for the high beam bulb, so I could still get the cap on, and still access the bulb easily. I also used a drill to start the holes. The inverter has a wire coming off of it with a little switch. The switch will make the cable stay on, or blink. I left it in the ON position. Might incur legal trouble if you have it blinking.
You can see the black and green wire connector. This is what plugs into the city lights. I cut the connector off, and wired the power to the inverter from this. (the green wire is the +, the black is the -. On the inverter, the red is the + and the black is -). I soldered the wires and then used electrical tape to insulate. Run the power wire for the inverter INTO the hole you drilled in the housing, then out the plug hole where the city lights are. This way, the connection you make will be INSIDE the headlight assembly. If you want to keep your city lights, you should splice those wires.
Here's everything assembled. Note that you can't even really see the cable. That's one benefit of this method of Angel Eyes. You can't tell they're there. I use the oven method for reassembly. It gets the black goop stuff all sticky again. Squeeze the clear cover back on, heat it up, then take it out and SQUEEZE between your legs until it's all tight. Let cool. Reinstall in car. Enjoy.
![](http://www.frayadjacent.com/pics/tiburon/Mods/headlights/assembled1.jpg)
and here's the end results:
![](http://www.frayadjacent.com/pics/tiburon/Mods/headlights/angeleyes.jpg)
![](http://www.frayadjacent.com/pics/tiburon/Mods/headlights/AElightson.jpg)
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