LexAnt

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys,

I'm looking for opinions on whether I should keep the 30 amp fuse in the wiring harness. A little while ago, my low beam wire harness blew the fuse because one of the wires going to the ballast got loose and shorted. So I replaced it with a 30 amp fuse (was all I had at the time). So headlights are working fine. But also, I have HID fogs. I notice that the driver's side lights up fine but the passenger side flickers and then holds the beam. I searched a couple threads and it seemed like the ballast most likely wasn't getting the power (i guess powering 4 ballasts at once was too much). The harness for the foglights was using a 20 amp fuse, so i tried a 25 amp fuse, passenger side still flickered. Then i went up to a 30 amp fuse and it doesn't flicker anymore. My question is do you think i'll be okay with the 30 amp fuses in both low and fog harnesses?

TIA,
Anthony

Oh yea, turning on the lights was all before the lights were warmed up. So like i would turn on my lows and then right away or at the same time my fogs, so the current draw is at it's max at that point. If the 30 amp fuses are too much, should i just learn to turn on the lows first, let it warm up, and then turn on the fogs?

Tammy

Recommend you place a star washer under one of the ballast mounting bolts to insure you have a good ground connection. This is if it doesn't have one or more installed already. This may resolve your problem. Hardware stores carry them.

After you drive it with the lamps on for a while, are those ballast supply wires hot? Too hot to hold with your hand? Does the on-off switch get hot ot the touch?

If so, the lamp circuit is overloaded and you may burn up the wiring. The wiring is sized for the original fuse amperage. This shouldn't be exceeded.

If not, the thirty amp seems to be providing the circuit without overload. But your switch is usually the weak point with high current draw circuits. Next is the wire size or diameter.

Many have gotten around this by having the switch turn on and off a relay. The relay, then, supplies the circuit power directly from a direct battery connection. This relay could provide to your ballasts in pairs or all at once using a heavier supply wire than what currently exists.

LexAnt

iTrader: (2)

For both the lows and fogs, I'm running relay harnesses so i'm not using my stock wiring harness. I also have my battery relocated to the trunk so the power cable on the harness isn't 7-8 inches away from the battery like it was originally intended for, don't know if that makes a difference. The fuses I'm talking about are not the ones on the car, but the ones that are integrated into the wiring harness, the ones for the fogs is the one that came with the xenondepot kit, and the other one was from a previous retrofiter.

LexAnt

iTrader: (2)

uhm so is it okae to run 30 amp fuses on these hid harnesses?

Tammy

If the wiring is cool to the touch while under electrical load. The 30 amp should be fine.