Xenon Depot Volt HID kit: fog light installation...
#31
Pole Position
Point & Shoot cameras each have their own unique ways to alter the exposure and ISO selection in Manual mode, and when you use that mode you can control those variables. You'd have to refer to your manual to do this, but it can get quite interesting and addictive if you get the hang of it. Next thing you know, you're spending thousands on digital SLRs, and the deeper you go, the more you want.
Exposure is the shutter speed and ISO is a carry-over from the film days. With film, speed is roughly related to granularity, the size of the grains of silver halide in the emulsion, since larger grains give film a greater sensitivity to light; in simpler terms, the larger the grain, the more light the film can gather, but the grainier the image becomes - which is detrimental if you're blowing up the picture.
In the digital world, ISO is an arbitrary relationship between exposure and sensor data values - the sensor being where the photographic data, or image is captured - as close as you can get when comparing with film. From this point on, it gets complicated. In a nutshell then, the higher the ISO value, the more light capture ability the camera has, but graininess (or noise as it is called in the digital field) increases proportionally as well.
Sorry if the above sounds a bit technical.
Exposure is the shutter speed and ISO is a carry-over from the film days. With film, speed is roughly related to granularity, the size of the grains of silver halide in the emulsion, since larger grains give film a greater sensitivity to light; in simpler terms, the larger the grain, the more light the film can gather, but the grainier the image becomes - which is detrimental if you're blowing up the picture.
In the digital world, ISO is an arbitrary relationship between exposure and sensor data values - the sensor being where the photographic data, or image is captured - as close as you can get when comparing with film. From this point on, it gets complicated. In a nutshell then, the higher the ISO value, the more light capture ability the camera has, but graininess (or noise as it is called in the digital field) increases proportionally as well.
Sorry if the above sounds a bit technical.
Last edited by Johnny; 11-13-08 at 04:17 PM.
#32
^^^
Gosh, I'm lost.
I think I'm gonna leave my camera alone and let it do it's thing.
I should have asked some of the "Hardcore" CL Photographers to do the photoshoot.
I know of a couple of people that will do the fog light HID kit soon. I'll see if we can get professional-style photos in the near future...
Gosh, I'm lost.
I think I'm gonna leave my camera alone and let it do it's thing.
I should have asked some of the "Hardcore" CL Photographers to do the photoshoot.
I know of a couple of people that will do the fog light HID kit soon. I'll see if we can get professional-style photos in the near future...
#38
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (11)
MoeIS350 -
You need an H11 HID conversion kit for the lows.
For your fogs you need a 9006 HID conversion kit .
I would not recommend doing your High Beams because HID's have a warm up period and would not be very functional in a High Beam set up.
Thanks,
Mike
You need an H11 HID conversion kit for the lows.
For your fogs you need a 9006 HID conversion kit .
I would not recommend doing your High Beams because HID's have a warm up period and would not be very functional in a High Beam set up.
Thanks,
Mike
#41
Pole Position
iTrader: (5)
ok, last question. can I use http://www.kbcarstuff.com/6500k-Xtre.../xt-65k-rb.htm with the Volt amp connectors or do I need to purchase http://www.kbcarstuff.com/Xreme-HID-...s-p/xt-con.htm as well?
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