05 rx 6k low beam problem (please help!)
03-28-09, 05:15 AM
#16
it is solid...
Even your little chart you posted agrees with the numbers... 18awg would be more than sufficient for a pair of 55 watt headlamps... as their current draw will be around 9 amps...
Lexus might give two 10 amp fuses, because they are being "safer" than they have to be - would rather give a little wiggle room...
please educate me as to how two 55 watt headlamps can draw more than 9 amps of current...
You say I'm doing conversions and such, but in reality, you have lost it...
For the record, I been installing car audio for 13 years, won my first DB Drag Race 12 years ago, and since then have spent time wiring standalone computers, rewiring instrument clusters, and even do my own LED conversions for clusters... I have just a little electronics background...
03-28-09, 05:20 AM
#17
and if you must know, my original example of 18 awg wire adds .00751 ohms per foot... multiply x 6 and you get .04 ohms additional... in the car world that is negligible and is actually well within the tolerance of any electronic component anyways...
waste of time to calculate additional resistance of wire unless you have a run of 20 feet or better...
waste of time to calculate additional resistance of wire unless you have a run of 20 feet or better...
03-29-09, 11:28 AM
#18
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Considering the startup drawing in amperage is unknown on a 55w ballasts yet once warmed up, the stability is at 9amps, yes. You sure are right. [/sarcasm]
Do you know anything with regars to this matter to even speak wisely?
Btw, the rx330 has a relay built in already for both low beams. It is rated at 30 amps if I'm not mistaken and is found under the hood.
Do you know anything with regars to this matter to even speak wisely?
Btw, the rx330 has a relay built in already for both low beams. It is rated at 30 amps if I'm not mistaken and is found under the hood.
03-29-09, 05:46 PM
#19
Considering the startup drawing in amperage is unknown on a 55w ballasts yet once warmed up, the stability is at 9amps, yes. You sure are right. [/sarcasm]
Do you know anything with regars to this matter to even speak wisely?
Btw, the rx330 has a relay built in already for both low beams. It is rated at 30 amps if I'm not mistaken and is found under the hood.
Do you know anything with regars to this matter to even speak wisely?
Btw, the rx330 has a relay built in already for both low beams. It is rated at 30 amps if I'm not mistaken and is found under the hood.
Guess what I just found... startup amperage draw on 55watt HID's... it's 15 amps... even the cheapest 18 awg wire (which I might remind is thinner than I've ever seen on a HID relay kit) will only drop .5 volts with a 15 amp current draw... with a normal running car alternator putting out 13.5-14.4 volts, the least voltage we should ever see at the ballast is still 13 volts... well over idle voltage of a normal car battery...
why must you argue so much??? "do I even know anything with regards to this matter to speak wisely" remember... 13 years car audio installation experience, 4 years vehicle diagnostic experience, including troubleshooting electrical systems...
The answer is still the same as it originally was, either something wrong with a ballast, or something wrong with the ballast design completely...
I will add one more potential problem, and that is that there could be high resistance at one of the connectors - corrosion, contamination, or just not making good contact, however this normally wouldn't go away once the ballasts are warm...
also, one more thing, how does your explanation account for why it works when they are warm, but not when they are cold... cold wiring actually transfers electricity more efficiently than hot wiring...
oh, have you even come up with a proposed solution to his problem?????
04-02-09, 05:45 AM
#20
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Alright, so, if its 30 amps, then you just proved he shouldn't even need a wiring kit for them... For the record, almost all vehicles have relays for the headlamps... you don't run high amperage through the headlamp switch...
Guess what I just found... startup amperage draw on 55watt HID's... it's 15 amps... even the cheapest 18 awg wire (which I might remind is thinner than I've ever seen on a HID relay kit) will only drop .5 volts with a 15 amp current draw... with a normal running car alternator putting out 13.5-14.4 volts, the least voltage we should ever see at the ballast is still 13 volts... well over idle voltage of a normal car battery...
why must you argue so much??? "do I even know anything with regards to this matter to speak wisely" remember... 13 years car audio installation experience, 4 years vehicle diagnostic experience, including troubleshooting electrical systems...
The answer is still the same as it originally was, either something wrong with a ballast, or something wrong with the ballast design completely...
I will add one more potential problem, and that is that there could be high resistance at one of the connectors - corrosion, contamination, or just not making good contact, however this normally wouldn't go away once the ballasts are warm...
also, one more thing, how does your explanation account for why it works when they are warm, but not when they are cold... cold wiring actually transfers electricity more efficiently than hot wiring...
oh, have you even come up with a proposed solution to his problem?????
Guess what I just found... startup amperage draw on 55watt HID's... it's 15 amps... even the cheapest 18 awg wire (which I might remind is thinner than I've ever seen on a HID relay kit) will only drop .5 volts with a 15 amp current draw... with a normal running car alternator putting out 13.5-14.4 volts, the least voltage we should ever see at the ballast is still 13 volts... well over idle voltage of a normal car battery...
why must you argue so much??? "do I even know anything with regards to this matter to speak wisely" remember... 13 years car audio installation experience, 4 years vehicle diagnostic experience, including troubleshooting electrical systems...
The answer is still the same as it originally was, either something wrong with a ballast, or something wrong with the ballast design completely...
I will add one more potential problem, and that is that there could be high resistance at one of the connectors - corrosion, contamination, or just not making good contact, however this normally wouldn't go away once the ballasts are warm...
also, one more thing, how does your explanation account for why it works when they are warm, but not when they are cold... cold wiring actually transfers electricity more efficiently than hot wiring...
oh, have you even come up with a proposed solution to his problem?????
As far as the low-beam relay. It is also applied to the autoleveling function.
BTW, you just got the 15amp amperage drawing from 55w kits out of your butt, didnt you?
I already said it, his car cannot and was not meant to handle 55w kits.
The flickering is caused by the bulb itself.
04-02-09, 05:51 AM
#21
Cold wiring works well if it was far from the engine bay which in turn can go up to 100F+ on any single day. So a 18ga wire will just be punitive against a spike that great. You are doing a simple conversion at the source. The problem with aftermarket ballasts is that the drawing in amperage at start-up is not the stable but varies. Same as when they are fully warmed.
As far as the low-beam relay. It is also applied to the autoleveling function.
BTW, you just got the 15amp amperage drawing from 55w kits out of your butt, didnt you?
I already said it, his car cannot and was not meant to handle 55w kits.
The flickering is caused by the bulb itself.
As far as the low-beam relay. It is also applied to the autoleveling function.
BTW, you just got the 15amp amperage drawing from 55w kits out of your butt, didnt you?
I already said it, his car cannot and was not meant to handle 55w kits.
The flickering is caused by the bulb itself.
actually, I bow out... there is no way you are correct, but it seems that you can't get that through your thick head...
)
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