Drl/fog Success !!!!
08-27-02, 10:24 PM
#1
Lead Lap
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DRL/FOG SUCCESS !!!!
My 01 RX300 now has DRLs AND fog lights that operate independently of low beams.
"Killing two birds with one stone"
I added a simple single-pole/single-throw relay.
At DRL relay #3 I opened the standard DRL circuit between pin 4 of the relay and the voltage dropping resistor and spliced the relay coil in series. This circuit is comprised of:
15A fuse (H-LP L UPR), LH highbeam bulb, RH highbeam bulb, NC (Normally Closed) contact (pins 2,4) of DRL relay #3, RELAY COIL, voltage dropping resistor, Grnd.
The relay coil is 66 ohms so the voltage dropped by the resistor and headlamp bulbs isn't enough to have any detrimental affect.
One side of the NO relay contact is spliced into the 15A fuse (H-LP R UPR) which normally supplies 12 volts to the right high beam, and the other side is spliced into the fog lamp voltage supply wire.
ALL connections are available, readily accessible, at the main wiring juncture for the DRL relay set mounted above the radiator just to the left of the battery.
My fog lamps now come on, as DRLs, instead of the high beams at reduced voltage. This also solves the problem of wishing to operate the fog lamps in adverse weather conditions (Fog. snow, etc) without incurring the glare from the HID low beams.
The relay is ONLY energized when the factory DRL circuit is energized. During that time the 15A fuse for the right high beam is used.
The factory fog lamp circuit still operates in the same way it was shipped.
Compromising..
There are those that will say that the fog lamps are aimed too low to be adequate for DRL use. That's likely true but I'm sure some of that deficiency is overcome by the fogs being operated at full voltage vs reduced voltage for the factory DRLs. Most of you know I reluctantly disconnected my DRLs months ago when I discovered that operating Halogen bulbs at reduced voltage caused them to fail very prematurely.
So, overall, I think the above circuit is a very GOOD compromise.
Now off to buy some 9006AW bulbs....
Thanks Paddy, that was quick!
and easy.
"Killing two birds with one stone"
I added a simple single-pole/single-throw relay.
At DRL relay #3 I opened the standard DRL circuit between pin 4 of the relay and the voltage dropping resistor and spliced the relay coil in series. This circuit is comprised of:
15A fuse (H-LP L UPR), LH highbeam bulb, RH highbeam bulb, NC (Normally Closed) contact (pins 2,4) of DRL relay #3, RELAY COIL, voltage dropping resistor, Grnd.
The relay coil is 66 ohms so the voltage dropped by the resistor and headlamp bulbs isn't enough to have any detrimental affect.
One side of the NO relay contact is spliced into the 15A fuse (H-LP R UPR) which normally supplies 12 volts to the right high beam, and the other side is spliced into the fog lamp voltage supply wire.
ALL connections are available, readily accessible, at the main wiring juncture for the DRL relay set mounted above the radiator just to the left of the battery.
My fog lamps now come on, as DRLs, instead of the high beams at reduced voltage. This also solves the problem of wishing to operate the fog lamps in adverse weather conditions (Fog. snow, etc) without incurring the glare from the HID low beams.
The relay is ONLY energized when the factory DRL circuit is energized. During that time the 15A fuse for the right high beam is used.
The factory fog lamp circuit still operates in the same way it was shipped.
Compromising..
There are those that will say that the fog lamps are aimed too low to be adequate for DRL use. That's likely true but I'm sure some of that deficiency is overcome by the fogs being operated at full voltage vs reduced voltage for the factory DRLs. Most of you know I reluctantly disconnected my DRLs months ago when I discovered that operating Halogen bulbs at reduced voltage caused them to fail very prematurely.
So, overall, I think the above circuit is a very GOOD compromise.
Now off to buy some 9006AW bulbs....
Thanks Paddy, that was quick!
and easy.
Last edited by wwest; 08-27-02 at 10:44 PM.
08-27-02, 10:30 PM
#2
Lexus Champion
Philips AllWeather/WeatherVision:
http://www.autolamps-online.com/halo...thercentre.htm
Free shipping and free delivery to anywhere in the world.
http://www.autolamps-online.com/halo...thercentre.htm
Free shipping and free delivery to anywhere in the world.
08-28-02, 10:43 AM
#4
Lead Lap
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Wisconsin
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Originally posted by Paddy Wagon
Philips AllWeather/WeatherVision:
http://www.autolamps-online.com/halo...thercentre.htm
Free shipping and free delivery to anywhere in the world.
Philips AllWeather/WeatherVision:
http://www.autolamps-online.com/halo...thercentre.htm
Free shipping and free delivery to anywhere in the world.
ck
08-28-02, 10:45 AM
#5
Lead Lap
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Wisconsin
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Re: DRL/FOG SUCCESS !!!!
Originally posted by wwest
My 01 RX300 now has DRLs AND fog lights that operate independently of low beams.
"Killing two birds with one stone"
I added a simple single-pole/single-throw relay.
At DRL relay #3 I opened the standard DRL circuit between pin 4 of the relay and the voltage dropping resistor and spliced the relay coil in series. This circuit is comprised of:
15A fuse (H-LP L UPR), LH highbeam bulb, RH highbeam bulb, NC (Normally Closed) contact (pins 2,4) of DRL relay #3, RELAY COIL, voltage dropping resistor, Grnd.
The relay coil is 66 ohms so the voltage dropped by the resistor and headlamp bulbs isn't enough to have any detrimental affect.
One side of the NO relay contact is spliced into the 15A fuse (H-LP R UPR) which normally supplies 12 volts to the right high beam, and the other side is spliced into the fog lamp voltage supply wire.
ALL connections are available, readily accessible, at the main wiring juncture for the DRL relay set mounted above the radiator just to the left of the battery.
My fog lamps now come on, as DRLs, instead of the high beams at reduced voltage. This also solves the problem of wishing to operate the fog lamps in adverse weather conditions (Fog. snow, etc) without incurring the glare from the HID low beams.
The relay is ONLY energized when the factory DRL circuit is energized. During that time the 15A fuse for the right high beam is used.
The factory fog lamp circuit still operates in the same way it was shipped.
Compromising..
There are those that will say that the fog lamps are aimed too low to be adequate for DRL use. That's likely true but I'm sure some of that deficiency is overcome by the fogs being operated at full voltage vs reduced voltage for the factory DRLs. Most of you know I reluctantly disconnected my DRLs months ago when I discovered that operating Halogen bulbs at reduced voltage caused them to fail very prematurely.
So, overall, I think the above circuit is a very GOOD compromise.
Now off to buy some 9006AW bulbs....
Thanks Paddy, that was quick!
and easy.
My 01 RX300 now has DRLs AND fog lights that operate independently of low beams.
"Killing two birds with one stone"
I added a simple single-pole/single-throw relay.
At DRL relay #3 I opened the standard DRL circuit between pin 4 of the relay and the voltage dropping resistor and spliced the relay coil in series. This circuit is comprised of:
15A fuse (H-LP L UPR), LH highbeam bulb, RH highbeam bulb, NC (Normally Closed) contact (pins 2,4) of DRL relay #3, RELAY COIL, voltage dropping resistor, Grnd.
The relay coil is 66 ohms so the voltage dropped by the resistor and headlamp bulbs isn't enough to have any detrimental affect.
One side of the NO relay contact is spliced into the 15A fuse (H-LP R UPR) which normally supplies 12 volts to the right high beam, and the other side is spliced into the fog lamp voltage supply wire.
ALL connections are available, readily accessible, at the main wiring juncture for the DRL relay set mounted above the radiator just to the left of the battery.
My fog lamps now come on, as DRLs, instead of the high beams at reduced voltage. This also solves the problem of wishing to operate the fog lamps in adverse weather conditions (Fog. snow, etc) without incurring the glare from the HID low beams.
The relay is ONLY energized when the factory DRL circuit is energized. During that time the 15A fuse for the right high beam is used.
The factory fog lamp circuit still operates in the same way it was shipped.
Compromising..
There are those that will say that the fog lamps are aimed too low to be adequate for DRL use. That's likely true but I'm sure some of that deficiency is overcome by the fogs being operated at full voltage vs reduced voltage for the factory DRLs. Most of you know I reluctantly disconnected my DRLs months ago when I discovered that operating Halogen bulbs at reduced voltage caused them to fail very prematurely.
So, overall, I think the above circuit is a very GOOD compromise.
Now off to buy some 9006AW bulbs....
Thanks Paddy, that was quick!
and easy.
This is functionally a GREAT mod! Sounds like it'd be really nice cosmetically too... I think I'm gonna have to attempt this - too tough for someone with limited electrical knowledge?
Pics would be great too if you can post a few!
ck
08-28-02, 01:51 PM
#6
Lead Lap
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Too tough?
No, relatively straight forward.
Radio Shack relay # 275-226, "Auto Relay", 12 volt 66 ohm coil, 30 amp N.O. contacts.
DRL #3 relay is in an enclosure mounted to cross structure above radiator. Wire of interest, Red/Blue, is on terminal 4 of this relay. Terminal 4 is middle one of three across on the bottom of this relay. I made all of my connections at the juncture of the main wiring harness before it splits off going to the DRL relay enclosure.
I opened the DRL circuit, red/blue wire, and (butt-)spliced in two 8" extensions, one to each newly opened end of the red/blue wire, which I then connected to the two ends of the relay coil. That places the relay coil in series with the high beam DRL circuit.
Now find the (larger) light green wire coming from DRL #3 relay terminal 1 and T-splice in an 8" extension and connect this one to one end of the relay contacts. Light green wire is 12 volt, 15A fuse, full voltage source for right high beam.
Within the main harness "bundle" is the Red/Black(with silver marker dots every inch or so) wire suppling the right fog light, since they are in parallel, supplying both actually. Wire size is the same as the red/blue on terminal 4 of the DRL #3 relay, "small".
You might want to confirm that you have the right wire by checking that it has 12V only when the fog lights are on.
Now T-splice an 8" extension to this wire and connect the opposite end to the other side of relay N.O. contact.
The new relay has a mounting tab so it can be firmly mounted near the DRL relay enclosure.
You're DONE!
Check that the fog lights are energized when the engine is started with the parking brake released and no headlamps on. With the fog lamp switch off the fogs should now go off automatically with either headlamp mode on.
Note: The new Fog/DRL relay will not energize if either high beam bulb has failed, the left high beam fuse is open/blown, or the DRL voltage dropping resistor (US only) under the battery plate is open. Also, the Fog lamps will not work in DRL mode if the 15A fuse for the right high beam is open/blown.
Radio Shack relay # 275-226, "Auto Relay", 12 volt 66 ohm coil, 30 amp N.O. contacts.
DRL #3 relay is in an enclosure mounted to cross structure above radiator. Wire of interest, Red/Blue, is on terminal 4 of this relay. Terminal 4 is middle one of three across on the bottom of this relay. I made all of my connections at the juncture of the main wiring harness before it splits off going to the DRL relay enclosure.
I opened the DRL circuit, red/blue wire, and (butt-)spliced in two 8" extensions, one to each newly opened end of the red/blue wire, which I then connected to the two ends of the relay coil. That places the relay coil in series with the high beam DRL circuit.
Now find the (larger) light green wire coming from DRL #3 relay terminal 1 and T-splice in an 8" extension and connect this one to one end of the relay contacts. Light green wire is 12 volt, 15A fuse, full voltage source for right high beam.
Within the main harness "bundle" is the Red/Black(with silver marker dots every inch or so) wire suppling the right fog light, since they are in parallel, supplying both actually. Wire size is the same as the red/blue on terminal 4 of the DRL #3 relay, "small".
You might want to confirm that you have the right wire by checking that it has 12V only when the fog lights are on.
Now T-splice an 8" extension to this wire and connect the opposite end to the other side of relay N.O. contact.
The new relay has a mounting tab so it can be firmly mounted near the DRL relay enclosure.
You're DONE!
Check that the fog lights are energized when the engine is started with the parking brake released and no headlamps on. With the fog lamp switch off the fogs should now go off automatically with either headlamp mode on.
Note: The new Fog/DRL relay will not energize if either high beam bulb has failed, the left high beam fuse is open/blown, or the DRL voltage dropping resistor (US only) under the battery plate is open. Also, the Fog lamps will not work in DRL mode if the 15A fuse for the right high beam is open/blown.
Last edited by wwest; 08-28-02 at 01:53 PM.
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