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1995 LS400 Headlight and Marker Removal Nightmare.

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Old 03-12-23 | 08:40 PM
  #1  
1daylow's Avatar
1daylow
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Red face 1995 LS400 Headlight and Marker Removal Nightmare.

Hey Club Lexus
I have been browsing the forum for years and I finally made an account to share some issues I'm having.
Just got a set of Depot Chrystal Clear headlights and markers to replace the originals that are showing age on my 1995 LS. In addition to this, the previous owner had the drivers side headlight and corner light improperly mounted so they were not flush with the body. I have all new hardware to put on once I can get these 4 rusty bolts and 1 Philips screw out. Any advice on what to do next? In 3 weeks I will be taking it to an auto body specialist who knows how to deal with rust. This turned from a 1-2 hour install into a month long ordeal so any advice would be much appreciated so I don't have to wait 3 weeks just to take a few bolts out. I apologize to mods if this is posted in the wrong place.


(Drivers side bottom inside bolt) Even with PB blaster this bolt head came right off.


(Drivers side top inside bolt) This bolt head was broken when I bought the car.


(Passengers side top inside bolt) I have not attempted wrenching on this bolt yet in fear of it breaking.


(Passengers side bottom inside bolt) This one is stripped on top.


(Passengers side marker) This is the Philips screw that I tried to drill out with a left handed bit because it would not budge. All resources online that I have found say that this is supposed to be a 10mm socket.

(passengers side marker different angle) There is a plastic back piece and a square nut on the back of the Philips. The drivers side came off easy and I went to do this side which stripped right away. I tried drilling it out with a left handed bit but I cannot get a straight angle to drill from.
Old 03-13-23 | 10:55 AM
  #2  
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Wow its amazing how rusty those bolts are. my AZ car I could take apart both headlights in my 97 in under 5-10 min. Looks like the zinc coating completely failed and rusted them out.

You could try spraying PB Blaster on those or any bolts that look like that days before you start working on them. It really does help prevent any bolt head snapping issues by working into the metal and freeing things up.
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Old 03-13-23 | 11:21 AM
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I would remove the light assemblies. I'm guessing that once removed, the shanks of the fasteners might be exposed enough to grab with pliers.

Before attempting to remove what's left of the fasteners, spray them with penetrant from the backside and let it work. Sometimes vibration is necessary to get them broken free. If you have an old school engraving pen:



....putting the tip on the fastener shank and giving it a minute or two of vibration can break them free.

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Old 03-13-23 | 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by paulo57509
. Sometimes vibration is necessary to get them broken free. If you have an old school engraving pen:



....putting the tip on the fastener shank and giving it a minute or two of vibration can break them free.
Wow, the things we think of. Gotta use what ya got.
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Old 03-13-23 | 05:19 PM
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Keep in mind, the bolts holding your corner lights in are only being held on by metal clips that are attached onto the urethane bumper.

If you put too much torque, you might break your bumper and not be able to attach another light

If the heads are distorted, you could see if a smaller socket will fit on or use extractor sockets designed for rusty or rounded hardware.

You may need lots of penetrating fluid and a pair of pliers to hold onto the clip while turning the bolt
Old 03-14-23 | 02:07 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by deanshark
Wow, the things we think of. Gotta use what ya got.
I got this tip from a gunsmith reference for removing rusty scope mount screws. It works. A little penetrating oil, let it work and use the engraving pen. Nice pool of rusty oil emerges along with the screw.
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