mrmox

About 5 years ago my daughter’s car was broken into. Then, I was able to find someone willing to replace the driver’s window for $250 which seemed like a bargain.

Recently though the repair failed and I thought I would attempt a fix myself. Apparently what happened was the glue and/or threads failed on the upper bearing attachment points of the driver door window glass. The outer covers of both ( what is this called? A bushing? ) flew off and were lost. Apparently this is not the kind of part you can just buy a generic replacement for!

I want to call it a shoulder washer, but I think it was threaded so not a washer. The captive part of the bearing remains in the channel, but the threads seem to be some ungodly high pitch (see picture).
Any ideas what direction to go? I have ordered a M4 x 0.5 tap thinking I may be able to make a shoulder washer and then tap it and glue it like it appears it may have been done previously.

Hope the pictures make my question clearer.


Thanks in advance!





Captive bearing part in the channel

paulo57509

Typical M4 fasteners come in 0.3, 0.7, 0.5 and 1.25 pitch. You may have to shop at an industrial supply house (McMaster-Carr) rather than a local hardware store.

The part(s) you're looking for is here, yes?




I haven't been able to locate Fig. 67-04 in the Lexus parts diagrams. I found the above diagram here: https://parts.lexusofroseville.com/L...-Interior.html

If you have an auto glass shop close by, you might want to check with them - bring the glass with you.

CELSI0R

I don't believe modern cars use this design anymore. I transferred the hardware from my glass to a replacement last year, so I am familiar with this process. It's good you didn't lose the bearing, as I wasn't sure where to find that.

The part you need is a window retainer. I believe it is 69961-50020

https://parts.lexus.com/p/Lexus__/Do...996150020.html

I would recommend using thread locker this time when reassembling the window, so that it is less likely to fall off. It is very tricky when you're tightening the bearings onto the nuts. I was afraid of breaking the glass by over-tightening them, which is why I would recommend thread locker (probably blue) for added insurance.

EDIT: I should mention - I would recommend removing the window bearing from the upper window rail section, so it can be installed on the window glass more easily. You may need to remove the upper part of the rail to do this.

mrmox

Thanks to CELSIOR and paulo57509 for "learning" me that I could still get the retainer from a dealer! (I make it 32 years from original purchase, amazing!)

It tool two trips (order, pick up next day) but I got 2 of them.


Retainer Fr Door Glass

Imagine my surprise when they did not fit the holes in the glass!



Speculating.....got to be because after market glass was used in the repair?



So I had to make a filler to center the retainer in the hole from a grommet I shaved down



Regret I did not have something harder yet plastic to use instead. Glopped it in with RTV.
Used blue thread locker in every one.
Window goes up *and* down!

mrmox

Just one more note on getting the glass guides back in place:


Simply reverse the steps: d, c, b. HA HA HA HA HA (maniacal insane laughing)!

This was the hardest part for me and took a lot of iterating.
(d) carefully let the glass go all the way down to the bottom of the door. Don't let it hang up on the regulator bolts and don't insert those yet. (They mention using a cloth to keep the regulator bolts from scratching the glass while you are struggling with this)
(c) engage the top rear bearing into the rear guide and slide it down towards the bottom bearing until it hits some obstacle within the door. Carefully move the window and the glass guide both until the bottom of the glass guide goes past the obstacles and engages the lower bearing. Don't put the screws in yet.
(b) same idea with the front so both of the front bearings are captured in the guide.

THIS is the time I think I slid the glass up and engaged the regulator bolts so the glass was supported.

THEN put in the screws to hold the guides in place.


OH AND ABOUT THOSE SCREWS!
I read elsewhere they were soft so I was forewarned, and tried using a hand impact tool to remove the first one. Big fail, stripped the + clean out. I wound up dremeling two sides of that screw to turn it into a nut and removed it that way. The rest responded to vice grips around the outside of the head so no harm to the + slot. I suppose they were glued or thread locked or something originally.
I wish I could get this to the FRONT of this thread!

Best of luck to others faced with this!




Dremeled 2 sides flat after stripping slot out of screw holding glass guide. Lesson learned!

CELSI0R

One tip I really should have mentioned.. Buy a JIS screwdriver for working on Japanese cars. Especially those screws for the windows

I was really happy with the Vessel one:

I think size 3 is what worked for me.. But it's been 2 years, so it's hard to remember