Advice\debrief after my first spark plug change
#16
Lexus Test Driver
I'm now worried about the AVIS system in my car lol. I've never seen it discussed here - never even knew it was a thing. The default position is open for low-end power, but I wonder how many people's cars are failing to open for the shorter intake runner at high rpm's.
although tbh i could've gone my entire life without knowing a set of valves were opening lol... it's not like VTEC or VVT-iL where there's a sudden sharp power increase
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
That outside video sure does sound like Vtech lol
I do notice a sharp power increase... but not at 5000tbh. I always thought the power step ups were from VVTI. Rather than variable intake runner lengths. Wild stuff. I thought the changes were all from the VVTI side of things.
I do notice a sharp power increase... but not at 5000tbh. I always thought the power step ups were from VVTI. Rather than variable intake runner lengths. Wild stuff. I thought the changes were all from the VVTI side of things.
#18
Lexus Test Driver
That outside video sure does sound like Vtech lol
I do notice a sharp power increase... but not at 5000tbh. I always thought the power step ups were from VVTI. Rather than variable intake runner lengths. Wild stuff. I thought the changes were all from the VVTI side of things.
I do notice a sharp power increase... but not at 5000tbh. I always thought the power step ups were from VVTI. Rather than variable intake runner lengths. Wild stuff. I thought the changes were all from the VVTI side of things.
https://web.archive.org/web/20120917...uz-History.pdf
i'm sure someone on this site originally directed me there lol... but about half way down the document it goes into the noteworthy changes between the 1997 and 1998 engine and it's just crazy to see the amount of effort toyota made back in the day! the heads, ports, injectors, ignition, throttle control, cooling, pistons, and even the block itself have all been modified (just to name a few)
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
a good amount of my knowledge about this engine's inner workings are from reading through this old lexus techinfo document:
https://web.archive.org/web/20120917...uz-History.pdf
i'm sure someone on this site originally directed me there lol... but about half way down the document it goes into the noteworthy changes between the 1997 and 1998 engine and it's just crazy to see the amount of effort toyota made back in the day! the heads, ports, injectors, ignition, throttle control, cooling, pistons, and even the block itself have all been modified (just to name a few)
https://web.archive.org/web/20120917...uz-History.pdf
i'm sure someone on this site originally directed me there lol... but about half way down the document it goes into the noteworthy changes between the 1997 and 1998 engine and it's just crazy to see the amount of effort toyota made back in the day! the heads, ports, injectors, ignition, throttle control, cooling, pistons, and even the block itself have all been modified (just to name a few)
I really want to drive one of the normal 1UZ's to see how much of a difference it makes. What does the engine feel like at high load, low RPM where VVTI is really doing it's work. Peak torque of the OG 1UZ was at FIVE THOUSAND RPM! VVTI moved it down to 3600 in a much broader curve. Incredible.
While reading this document, I also just realized something is broken on my car. The mirrors should tilt down when I select reverse. My car has never done this.
Last edited by 400fanboy; 07-16-23 at 01:05 AM.
#21
Lexus Test Driver
i have driven a 1996 LS btw and it feels almost equivalent to crown vic interceptor performance, mind you it was literally matt farah's million mile lexus haha but even with 980,000 miles at the time was still quiet and luxurious
but yea after going through that it's apparent how the 3UZ in the 430 is much more like the VVT-i 1UZ than the latter is to previous iterations of the 1UZ... not sure why the power levels never increased in the 6 years of the 430 though
#22
There's a metal sleeve like that that always falls out of mine. Air filter box. Where it bolts up next to the coolant reservoir.
The following users liked this post:
400fanboy (07-16-23)
#23
Racer
Thread Starter
oh you may be in luck here lol... this is likely just the mirror switch being in the middle position, if it is then move it (to either side doesn't matter which) and now see if it happens
i have driven a 1996 LS btw and it feels almost equivalent to crown vic interceptor performance, mind you it was literally matt farah's million mile lexus haha but even with 980,000 miles at the time was still quiet and luxurious
but yea after going through that it's apparent how the 3UZ in the 430 is much more like the VVT-i 1UZ than the latter is to previous iterations of the 1UZ... not sure why the power levels never increased in the 6 years of the 430 though
i have driven a 1996 LS btw and it feels almost equivalent to crown vic interceptor performance, mind you it was literally matt farah's million mile lexus haha but even with 980,000 miles at the time was still quiet and luxurious
but yea after going through that it's apparent how the 3UZ in the 430 is much more like the VVT-i 1UZ than the latter is to previous iterations of the 1UZ... not sure why the power levels never increased in the 6 years of the 430 though
Also wtf @ the mirrors. I shouldn't have to select it. It should just move them, regardless of where that switch is. I like having it in the neutral spot so I don't accidentally move them or something. I'll give it a whirl, next time I drive the car, thanks.
#24
This is a picture of mine. I think all three bolts on the air filter housing have these. There's rubber grommets on each side of the threaded bolt hole that hold the metal sleeve. The grommets deteriorate and lose grip on the metal sleeve and eventually are destroyed or lost. I only had one side for this bolt
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400fanboy (07-16-23)
#25
As to question 1 on the original post. I don't remember where I saw or read it, but after you change/modify some of the ecm connected sensors the computer needs some time to incorporate the changes into the "map". The suggestion I recall was to turn on the key and let the ecm sit and think about things for a bit before starting, and for some reason two minutes (?) springs to mind, you don't have the concern of it not starting right up.
#26
Racer
Thread Starter
As to question 1 on the original post. I don't remember where I saw or read it, but after you change/modify some of the ecm connected sensors the computer needs some time to incorporate the changes into the "map". The suggestion I recall was to turn on the key and let the ecm sit and think about things for a bit before starting, and for some reason two minutes (?) springs to mind, you don't have the concern of it not starting right up.
& when I plugged everything back in, the battery was connected for 5-10 minutes before I tried to start the car. & I didn't wait 2 minutes, but I turned the key to ignition w\out starting the car just like you said. Though I didn't leave it there for 2 minutes. I had a VSC light and I think I sat there for maybe 30-60 seconds. The VSC light went away I believe the 2nd time I tried starting the car (when it did finally catch).
To me, it did not feel like sensor calibration. It felt like the engine was flooded. It kept creeping closer and closer and closer to "catching" as it was cranking. And it stumbled over itself\ignited a few times before it finally did catch and run smoothly.
#27
Racer
Thread Starter
This is a picture of mine. I think all three bolts on the air filter housing have these. There's rubber grommets on each side of the threaded bolt hole that hold the metal sleeve. The grommets deteriorate and lose grip on the metal sleeve and eventually are destroyed or lost. I only had one side for this bolt
The rubber grommet is nowhere to be found. & when I put everything back... I just bolted it back up without them. I'm going to imagine they are a vibration damper to cut down some intake resonance or something. I think I can live without it. Thanks so much!
#28
I just looked at the grommets on my air filter housing and they appear to be one piece. In the second image of aptoslexus' post i think you can make out where the grommet split. I'm guessing that it's hard as a rock at this point, as mine are. Does anyone have any experience with 3d printers and if there is a material which the 3d printers can use to print up a pliable rubber-like grommet to replace our ancient and dessicated ones? There doesn't appear to be a part number for them on partsfan, they're part of the "air cleaner cover" and the "engine air intake hose" and not available separately.
#29
Racer
Thread Starter
Mine have the rubber grommets still. Interesting.
#30
Yeah, there are three on the air cleaner box. Have you still got one on the plastic cover over the radiator near the battery?
Last edited by cj98ls; 07-16-23 at 10:11 PM.