angelo217

No fluid to rears. Proportioning valve is not allowing any fluid to my rear brakes! Does anyone know how on earth I reset the pin. Or am I better off sourcing a new one.

when looking inside of the valve the two lower ports ALLOW fluid to go inside. The two upper ports (both to the rear) are totally blocked off and the fluid stays on top of the port while testing.


the two lower ports that allow fluid, looking inside I can see a light bronze color.

the two ports not allowing fluid I can see this rose gold bronze color.

when I try to move it a certain way I can almost hear and feel this springing sound.

wondering if there’s just a go to way to get this shuttle back to where it needs to be, thanks!

paulo57509

Post photos of the proportioning valve, please.

angelo217

paulo57509

Typically, those valves contain a shuttle valve. The shuttle valve moves in the direction to shut off fluid flow to either front or rear brakes in the case of a hydraulic leak. Whet happens when you manually bleed the brakes (pedal pushing), the shuttle valve sees the open bleeder valve as a leak and it behaves accordingly. Since you have no fluid to the rear brakes, you need to get the shuttle valve to move the opposite direction and open the rear half of the system (obviously).

Have you tried this?

angelo217

yes I’ve tried it all. And I was doing the bleeding procedure in a way where I wouldn’t trip it. I’d have the bleeder valve closed. Have a buddy pump the brakes. Hold it, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, have him release the brakes.. repeat.

there is a spring inside of the ports going to the rear brakes. This spring mechanism is blocking my fluid flow. I tested this by simply putting brake fluid in to the port, no flow. UNLESS I pushed that spring down and it seemed to sort of move through the ports a little but not as it should..

now to the fronts fluid goes right through no problem. Luckily I found two LS’s my body style in my city. I’m going tomorrow to go extract both proportioning valves and see if I can get some better luck with those.

angelo217

i replaced the prop valve and have fluid to the rear brakes now yayyy.

front brakes are still sticking though, and the rears sticking ever so slightly. Ummm maybe an adjustment under the dash w the pedal?

paulo57509

What is your definition of "sticking"? Are the pads dragging on the rotor or is the rotor actually locked up?

angelo217

pads dragging on the rotor, gets more intense the longer I drive

paulo57509

I've never experienced this...yet, but I have heard of calipers not releasing because of deterioration of the ID of the rubber hoses.

https://mechanicfixa.com/new-brake-c...not-releasing/

I have the brake pedal height, free play, etc. specs you asked about in another thread (?) but they're for '98-'00. I don't know if they're the same for your chassis.

Yamae

I worry that your caliper's piston is rusted some. You can see how it becomes accessing here.
This is one of the photos from the link.
https://blog.fcpeuro.com/hs-fs/hubfs...uild-diy-3.jpg

angelo217

the driver side caliper is brand new, and the fronts stick with an equal amount of force on both sides

angelo217

the reason I say I believe it’s just too much pressure on the master is even when the car is completely cooled down after a couple days, I jack the car up and can still hear some contact with the pads and rotors. It’s not major because I’m able to spin the wheel with my hand relatively easily, but to my understanding there should be no contact at all. And yes I do have the springs for the pads on

paulo57509

Disc brakes, by design will drag slightly when the brake is not applied. There's no direct mechanical means of retracting the pads. How much drag is acceptable has been the subject of numerous engineering/research papers.

angelo217

okay noted, the amount of force applied after driving for a few miles and my car wanting to slow down on it own is strange. I’m assuming it just needs a pushrod adjustment. But could something under the footwell also effect this? As previously stated my brake pedal does seem a little lower than it really should be.

angelo217

If someone could help me out with this quick. Decided to take the LS out to run my grandparent somewhere.

on the way here I got a cel

code 71 egr malfunction

in experiencing extreme pressure in the gas tank, it’s February, I do live in Texas it’s 70 or so degrees, but the pressure seems to be way too much for what it is even though its said to be normal.

i drove for a while pulled over opened the gas cap and PSSSSSSSS very loud extreme pressure was released after 40 or so miles of driving.

Drove 20 miles or so after, opened it again and nearly the same amount of pressure came out.

can I continue driving?? or is this a you need a tow situation.

the cars performance since the cel came on seems near identical.

also I read that a sensor in the egr system commonly goes bad on these,. But with the amount of pressure in my tank is there something else I should take a look at? Thanks.