Need help replacing power steering pump
#1
7th Gear
Thread Starter
Need help replacing power steering pump
This morning I posted about my power steering pump going bad, I want to attempt to replace it myself over the weekend, I’m not a mechanic by any means but I’d prefer to save the money and learn how to work on the car myself.
I wanted to ask for any advice before going into it and maybe any video recommendations that can help me along the way.
Much appreciated
I wanted to ask for any advice before going into it and maybe any video recommendations that can help me along the way.
Much appreciated
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BNastee (02-15-24)
#2
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/steer...mpremoval.html
This can and will vary depending on the year of your car, as things were changed over the 1UZ's lifetime.
If you're going to replace the pump - highly recommend replacing the IAC valve and the two associated vacuum lines leading to it while you're in there. It's like 7 cents in parts, but a royal pain in the *** to do with the pump still on the car. If you're taking it off, you should really service those too.
This can and will vary depending on the year of your car, as things were changed over the 1UZ's lifetime.
If you're going to replace the pump - highly recommend replacing the IAC valve and the two associated vacuum lines leading to it while you're in there. It's like 7 cents in parts, but a royal pain in the *** to do with the pump still on the car. If you're taking it off, you should really service those too.
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RiasNoSweet (02-14-24)
#3
Moderator
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/steer...mpremoval.html
This can and will vary depending on the year of your car, as things were changed over the 1UZ's lifetime.
If you're going to replace the pump - highly recommend replacing the IAC valve and the two associated vacuum lines leading to it while you're in there. It's like 7 cents in parts, but a royal pain in the *** to do with the pump still on the car. If you're taking it off, you should really service those too.
This can and will vary depending on the year of your car, as things were changed over the 1UZ's lifetime.
If you're going to replace the pump - highly recommend replacing the IAC valve and the two associated vacuum lines leading to it while you're in there. It's like 7 cents in parts, but a royal pain in the *** to do with the pump still on the car. If you're taking it off, you should really service those too.
The valve is over $100.
The short hose is $40 and the longer of the 2 is almost $50.
Those are the current prices at Bell Lexus which is currently a 14% off sale I think it ends tonight.
#4
https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/1763016040
https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/1734250090
https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/1734350070
$100 plus shipping, which shouldn't get you anywhere close to the $200+! Bell wants. The hoses for 95-97 cars are even cheaper, $10\ea.
Amayama and local lexus dealers sometimes are better than the other. I was looking at brake pads the other day and Amayama wants nearly double the local price. So, they don't win every time, but this time they do.
But yes you're right I was being a bit snarky when I said 7 cents each lol. In the scheme of a pump, it's not too bad. Those vacuum lines really should be replaced, they get pretty good split ends from all the times they have to be removed.
https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/1734250090
https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/1734350070
$100 plus shipping, which shouldn't get you anywhere close to the $200+! Bell wants. The hoses for 95-97 cars are even cheaper, $10\ea.
Amayama and local lexus dealers sometimes are better than the other. I was looking at brake pads the other day and Amayama wants nearly double the local price. So, they don't win every time, but this time they do.
But yes you're right I was being a bit snarky when I said 7 cents each lol. In the scheme of a pump, it's not too bad. Those vacuum lines really should be replaced, they get pretty good split ends from all the times they have to be removed.
Last edited by 400fanboy; 02-14-24 at 09:59 PM.
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BNastee (02-15-24)
#5
This morning I posted about my power steering pump going bad, I want to attempt to replace it myself over the weekend, I’m not a mechanic by any means but I’d prefer to save the money and learn how to work on the car myself.
I wanted to ask for any advice before going into it and maybe any video recommendations that can help me along the way.
Much appreciated
I wanted to ask for any advice before going into it and maybe any video recommendations that can help me along the way.
Much appreciated
#6
This morning I posted about my power steering pump going bad, I want to attempt to replace it myself over the weekend, I’m not a mechanic by any means but I’d prefer to save the money and learn how to work on the car myself.
I wanted to ask for any advice before going into it and maybe any video recommendations that can help me along the way.
Much appreciated
I wanted to ask for any advice before going into it and maybe any video recommendations that can help me along the way.
Much appreciated
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...s-burning.html
I realized - your pump may not have failed. You could have a seized or failing pulley that caused your accessory belt to drag, therefore also causing the alternator to not produce enough charge. This may have been the burning smell..
Please check that out before going forward with the power steering system.
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#8
Moderator
Originally Posted by RiasNoSweet;[url=tel:11669782
11669782]How would I know if it is seized, or is there anything I should be looking for when checking it out I'm going to start looking at it tomorrow afternoon
Specifically the idler pulley or the tensioner pulley, both of which should spin freely when they are healthy.
#9
This is one good video on diagnosing your pulleys:
I do not recommend the procedure from 3:52 - 4:53 on our engines. It will be difficult as there's not a ton of space, and you really do not want to catch your hand in the radiator fan...
Any of the pulleys the accessory belt is driving could be your problem. Check your idler pulley, tensioner pulley, power steering pulley, alternator pulley, crankshaft pulley, fan bracket pulley, compressor clutch pulley.
To check your pulleys, you will need to loosen your accessory belt, similarly to this video:
Note that you will have to work around the radiator fan to do this. It is possible but will require patience to remove the belt and to put it back on. A routing diagram is shown int he video but it should also be on a sticker on the underside of your hood (unless the panel has been replaced).
If you do not have the tools to do this or you think you might get stuck, check with your mechanic. Once the belt is off, you won't be able to drive the car very far, as you won't have the alternator running
Note that the main difference with the engine in the video is the absence of the radiator fan since it is an SC 400 1UZ-FE. Those cars had a different fan bracket pulley in the same location.
I do not recommend the procedure from 3:52 - 4:53 on our engines. It will be difficult as there's not a ton of space, and you really do not want to catch your hand in the radiator fan...
Any of the pulleys the accessory belt is driving could be your problem. Check your idler pulley, tensioner pulley, power steering pulley, alternator pulley, crankshaft pulley, fan bracket pulley, compressor clutch pulley.
To check your pulleys, you will need to loosen your accessory belt, similarly to this video:
Note that you will have to work around the radiator fan to do this. It is possible but will require patience to remove the belt and to put it back on. A routing diagram is shown int he video but it should also be on a sticker on the underside of your hood (unless the panel has been replaced).
If you do not have the tools to do this or you think you might get stuck, check with your mechanic. Once the belt is off, you won't be able to drive the car very far, as you won't have the alternator running
Note that the main difference with the engine in the video is the absence of the radiator fan since it is an SC 400 1UZ-FE. Those cars had a different fan bracket pulley in the same location.
Last edited by CELSI0R; 02-15-24 at 09:44 PM.
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RiasNoSweet (02-16-24)
#10
7th Gear
Thread Starter
Update
I just got done looking at the car, went ahead and took off the covers. belt snapped completely all the pulleys spun fine except one I’m assuming it’s the idler pulley ( not 100% sure ) but it seems like everything else is perfectly fine so lucky me just wanna make sure and see what you guys have to say
Pulley
Pulley
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CELSI0R (02-16-24)
#11
Moderator
I just got done looking at the car, went ahead and took off the covers. belt snapped completely all the pulleys spun fine except one I’m assuming it’s the idler pulley ( not 100% sure ) but it seems like everything else is perfectly fine so lucky me just wanna make sure and see what you guys have to say
Pulley
Pulley
This is the closest you'll find to the factory original and it's inexpensive- https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=6956&jsn=416
Double check the part number as I guessed on the year model per the coil and cam gear covers seen in the pics.
You want a quality Japanese bearing nothing from China...
#12
I just got done looking at the car, went ahead and took off the covers. belt snapped completely all the pulleys spun fine except one I’m assuming it’s the idler pulley ( not 100% sure ) but it seems like everything else is perfectly fine so lucky me just wanna make sure and see what you guys have to say
Because you said the belt snapped, that was very likely the burning smell you experienced, as it dragged on your idler pulley.
Like bradland said, you can order a good replacement. It would not be a bad idea to hold onto your old pulley in a spare bin, as the bearing could be pressed out if you need it in the future.
Congrats, just saved yourself a lot of time and pain from doing the power steering job
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gtmuggs
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