Strut Tower Brace for UCF20
#16
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When did you paint the covers and air snorkel?
Finished my spacers today, what a PITA. When I cut the 6061, it melted on the bandsaw blade and it thumped something firece. That slowed it way down as I had to stop and clean the blade. In the end, I got the supports bolted in and all I need to do is bend the bar.
BTW. What / whomever welded up the support braces did a horrid job in aligning them. One is slightly twisted and points forward while the other points slightly backwards. Not to mention, the heat from welding warped the base...it's not critical, I'm just accustomed to better tolerances. I paid $25 for the STB so I can't complain too much.
Finished my spacers today, what a PITA. When I cut the 6061, it melted on the bandsaw blade and it thumped something firece. That slowed it way down as I had to stop and clean the blade. In the end, I got the supports bolted in and all I need to do is bend the bar.
BTW. What / whomever welded up the support braces did a horrid job in aligning them. One is slightly twisted and points forward while the other points slightly backwards. Not to mention, the heat from welding warped the base...it's not critical, I'm just accustomed to better tolerances. I paid $25 for the STB so I can't complain too much.
Last edited by RA40; 05-25-04 at 10:58 PM.
#17
Did you get universal strut bars or LS400 strut bars?
If I get a universal strut bar for lexus, will it fit? (What else must I get)
Robin
If I get a universal strut bar for lexus, will it fit? (What else must I get)
Robin
Originally posted by persian451
Strut bars off ebay are from 25-60 depending on what kind.. i got mine for 25 shipped and works well..
Strut bars off ebay are from 25-60 depending on what kind.. i got mine for 25 shipped and works well..
#19
I have a 93' Supra JZ80. (non-turbo)
I have aTRD Front Strut bar.
So the Strut bar would fit??
how much are the spacers?
I'm interested, please email me at god@pulsarproject.org.
I have aTRD Front Strut bar.
So the Strut bar would fit??
how much are the spacers?
I'm interested, please email me at god@pulsarproject.org.
#20
Originally posted by robinlow
I have a 93' Supra JZ80. (non-turbo)
I have aTRD Front Strut bar.
So the Strut bar would fit??
how much are the spacers?
I'm interested, please email me at god@pulsarproject.org.
I have a 93' Supra JZ80. (non-turbo)
I have aTRD Front Strut bar.
So the Strut bar would fit??
how much are the spacers?
I'm interested, please email me at god@pulsarproject.org.
The Supra TT adjustable will fit the type with turned down ends like my second pic shows.
You will still need a 1/4 spacer like in pic number 3
I am unable to get the aluminum at this time to make them, looks like I need to find another supplier.
#21
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Bending a straight strut tower brace
I tried a variety of crude ways to bend the bar...all unsuccessfully. This came to me and it was a breeze and can be easily controlled. This is a threaded rod used for illustration purposes.
Last edited by RA40; 07-13-04 at 07:10 PM.
#23
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Using the water heater safety post in the garage, I figured this and the concrete step were pretty solid surfaces to use in this attempt.
I placed a block just out of view at the end to use a "register point" so that the end of the bar will be in the same position when turned around. If you've ever used a chop saw, this is the stop that insures repeated cuts.
The 2x4" on the floor places the bar nearly level with the scissors jack and this allows for a straight application of force to bend the bar. If you do this without the block, you risk a compound bend and possible bar alignment issues. Use a riser equal in height so that it is level when bending.
The blocks resting on the riser behind the bar support it further so that you don't introduce an arch while bending the ends. Without the blocks, the entire bar will curve.
You can use a bottle jack but mine did not want to pump when placed on it's side. The scissor jack does not suffer from that issue and it worked nicely. Just count the number of turns so when you do the opposite side it is symmetrical. (Or numer of pumps if using a hydraulic jack.)
Make sure to place a pad on the contact points of the bar so that the finish is not damaged.
That is how I did it.
I placed a block just out of view at the end to use a "register point" so that the end of the bar will be in the same position when turned around. If you've ever used a chop saw, this is the stop that insures repeated cuts.
The 2x4" on the floor places the bar nearly level with the scissors jack and this allows for a straight application of force to bend the bar. If you do this without the block, you risk a compound bend and possible bar alignment issues. Use a riser equal in height so that it is level when bending.
The blocks resting on the riser behind the bar support it further so that you don't introduce an arch while bending the ends. Without the blocks, the entire bar will curve.
You can use a bottle jack but mine did not want to pump when placed on it's side. The scissor jack does not suffer from that issue and it worked nicely. Just count the number of turns so when you do the opposite side it is symmetrical. (Or numer of pumps if using a hydraulic jack.)
Make sure to place a pad on the contact points of the bar so that the finish is not damaged.
That is how I did it.
Last edited by RA40; 07-13-04 at 07:08 PM.
#26
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I think you can bend the bar sufficiently to do away with the spacers. One thing with mine, the brace mounts are of modest production quality (read that as low)...these bases were not flat and while torquing them down will flatten them, this creates an uneven distribution for the three bolt contacts. So the washers do perform some benefit in this case.
When I saw the STB's on the GS's, it is a whole other level of production.
When I saw the STB's on the GS's, it is a whole other level of production.
#27
Originally posted by RA40
I think you can bend the bar sufficiently to do away with the spacers. One thing with mine, the brace mounts are of modest production quality (read that as low)...these bases were not flat and while torquing them down will flatten them, this creates an uneven distribution for the three bolt contacts. So the washers do perform some benefit in this case.
When I saw the STB's on the GS's, it is a whole other level of production.
I think you can bend the bar sufficiently to do away with the spacers. One thing with mine, the brace mounts are of modest production quality (read that as low)...these bases were not flat and while torquing them down will flatten them, this creates an uneven distribution for the three bolt contacts. So the washers do perform some benefit in this case.
When I saw the STB's on the GS's, it is a whole other level of production.
Well I did some bar bending this weekend with one of those cheap ebay bars. You were right, you can bend it enought that you don't need spacers. The initial bending of the bar though sux by hand. I just stuck in a a vice grip screwed down to a table and just yanked on it till it started to bend. Then through trial and error on how much to bend it, it finally fit.
I'll take some pics with my phone in a bit.
Lou
Last edited by SQ-LS; 07-19-04 at 12:47 PM.