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1990 ls400 no crank (no power at starter relay)

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Old 04-11-24, 07:05 PM
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Bodyswapped53chevy
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Exclamation 1990 ls400 no crank (no power at starter relay)

Hello all, I have been reading through forums and racking my brain to figure out this issue with my ls400. I went to start my car and the cluster lit up like normal, but when I turned the key nothing happened. I tried to jump the starter relay and still had no luck. I changed the starter out for a new one, and took the old one apart to see what it looked like inside.. It was toast, I put the car all back together to try and start it but I am having the same issue still. I pulled the "ST" fuse and it was blown (I assume because the starter was toast), I replaced that fuse and still have nothing, I checked all 4 female slots for the starter relay and none have power with a test light whether the key is on or not. Does anyone know if this issue sounds like a theft deterrent issue, or a neutral safety switch issue *I did switch it from park to neutral and back and forth with no luck*. I am curious if the "main fusible link (16ga yellow) is the issue. Where is that located? Thank you.

MY ls400 has been body swapped with this 53 chevy / long story /
Old 04-12-24, 02:22 PM
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timmy0tool
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welcome and wow a body swapped LS! cool but let's get her running.

if it's an immobilizer issue, the starter would engage but just not fire over so that cannot be your issue. since fuses blew, you need to be methodical and follow the wiring from the starter back. there is a main fuse panel under the hood. fuses are obvious but the fusible links are on the side. see more in the link/quote below.

i think you also have the right idea with the neutral safety switch on the shifter. try starting it in N-neutral rather than just row the gears and start in P-park.


from https://us.lexusownersclub.com/forum...e-replacement/
This Lexus has about 50 separate fuses in two fuse boxes (engine & dash). The small fuses are 7.5A, 10A, 15A, etc. The cartridge fuses are in a separate container attached to the main engine fuse container, but under the same cover. The small fuses can be pulled out, but the cartridge fuses are bolted in from both sides and cannot be removed without dismounting the entire container.

1. Remove the battery. You'll need the room.

2. Remove the single nut attaching the right side of the cartridge container.

3. Lift the container up off the plastic post holding the left side to the main fuse container. This post snaps into place, so use a tiny screwdriver to bend the plastic loop of the cartridge case, releasing the snap. (If that's not clear, just shove a screwdriver in there and wiggle it around until the case comes loose.)

4. The cartridge case is now free, attached only by the dozen or so wires coming out the bottom. These wires are all bolted to the sides of the fuses. The reason you cannot see this is that the sides of the cartridge case are actually tiny flip-up doors -- which (of course) are snapped shut. Stick above-mentioned tiny screwdriver under plastic snaps and open the flap on each side of the case.

5. There they are! Remove one bolt from each side the the 120A fuse (or whichever fuse you need to replace).

6. Grasp the top of the fuse with needlenose pliers and pull it up & out.
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Old 04-15-24, 07:41 PM
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Thank you for the reply and for the insight, I ended up figuring out what the issue was.. I believe my starter was totally fried, which must have melted down the yellow fusible link by the "j-cases" in the under hood fuse box. I replaced the starter, the fusible link, the 7.5a "st" fuse under the dash, reset a circuit breaker, cleaned the 7.5a "st" fuse female slots (corroded badly) and the stater began to crank again. I tested the back of the ignition switch as well on both plugs to make sure that was working and all was well.. car is running again, I will say it seems to be cold hearted now that the egr is deleted, is that normal?
<my video on my car
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